GearNerd

To my knowledge, the machine keeps a count of how many passes it does on each filter. I'm not sure what the magic number is, but once it reaches that point is when the error code will pop up and alert you to clean/change the filter. On the older models, you simply held down the filter 'reset' button and it shut off the error code and reset the counter, I haven't had as much experience with the newer, smaller units but would assume it is a similar process.

Westside, the 'beefier' dial for the XS holder currently only comes with CCM's custom skate or Pro-Stock options as far as I am aware. However, the upcoming jetspeed skates set to release this summer are coming with a new dial and to my understanding it will be very similar in size and texture to the current custom skate dial. I would imagine they will also begin to produce replacement kits with the new dial once the skates hit the retail shelf.

To my knowledge, Oakley is no longer making visors available for the retail market. The shortest cut retail visor that I have seen in my shop and in other local stores will be the Bauer Pro-Straight. If you are looking for something more specific, best bet would probably be to try and find something pro-stock that is either new or used.

Cage swap should be OK, you might have to play around with a couple different style/positions of the clips on top of the cage but should be able to make it work. The ear flaps are going to be a little more dicey, this will largely depend on how they are secured to the helmet and where the screw holes are. I'm assuming like most other ones I have seen they will have some sort of attachment where the J-clip screws in and something near the back snap area. With the ear flaps you will likely just have to try and jimmy-rig it so that it is secure enough to not fall out during play.

I would go with the Blademaster, we have the TSM811T model in my shop that gets used on a very regular basis and we have had no issues with it. If you have the attachment that can remove copper rivets it makes changing holders a breeze.

CCM actually offers a very solid custom skate. There are two "levels" to the customizations that you can get. The first being the 'CCM Total Custom' option, which is what I have seen most come through my shop in terms of custom CCM skates. The next step up (which it sounds like is what you would be interested in) is the Total Custom Plus. Not sure of the exact price for each off the top of my head, but there is a jump from the Total Custom to the Total Custom Plus. In terms of actual customizations available, both options will get you the 3d scan, boot choice (Tacks, Jetspeed, Ribcore), tongue thickness and customization, steel choice, lace options, and color. With the total custom plus option, you get access to pro level customizations such as boot stiffness options (stock or x-stiff), facing changes, boot height, holder size, and boot cut. With both choices you are able to make notes on your scan if you have any irregularities in your feet or ankles that you want to make sure are addressed in the manufacturing process of your boot. I had a player come in who had major ankle surgery and was left with some hardware that had been bothering him in his current AS1's. He went with a Total Custom Plus and had no issues in the spots where he had the metal in his ankle. He actually got in touch with our CCM rep because he was so pleased with his skates. Also worth noting, the scan will give you a recommended size for each foot (down to a 1/4 size), and you are able to choose if you want to go with what is recommended or if you'd like to manually adjust and choose your size. With both packages you are able to get different sized skates since most people's feet are actually not identical in length and volume.

I've been sharpening for a number of years on at home units (Wissota 911, Sparx) and commercial machines (Blackstone and Blademaster 3-head systems), hopefully I can spread some knowledge to interested sharpeners. In response to your questions: 1. Once your jig (holder) is properly aligned to produce a square sharpening, you really shouldn't need to make any further adjustments to it. No matter the hollow, blade/skate type, or blade size a properly aligned holder should give balanced edges every time with minimal manual adjustment. That being said, you should still be checking for square edges every time you sharpen your blades (and especially if you are doing someone else's). One thing that can change the alignment of the holder is if you change the felt pad on the bottom of the jig, as this will change the height of the holder and thus require you to re-calibrate so you can sharpen properly. 2. Not necessarily, often times your blades will become damaged during play and will no longer be perfectly square. The first 3-4 passes when you sharpen them should be hitting the full blade, and if there is still marker on the bottom of the steel, then you'd want to look into the alignment of the holder to get back to square. 3. I have found that if I have a pair of skates come into my shop that is out of alignment, I will typically check the edges after 5-6 passes and then adjust from there as needed. One thing to keep in mind if you are having troubles like this, is to always try and do the same amount of passes on each skate, even if it means you have to take off a little bit of extra steel. Even if it is only 5-6 passes, if you are consistently off by that much, the blades will become noticeably different sized and then you have an issue.

IMO the Carbonlite blades are a very poor investment. For starters, the actually quality of steel is very poor, even worse I have found than basic LS or LS2 steel. The carbon piece also presents many issues. Too many times I've seen them come into my shop and the carbon upper has been completely mangled by someone who is not qualified to sharpen them. Even as an experienced sharpener they present a bit of a hassle in terms of properly aligning them on the jig so as not to damage the carbon. I haven't seen any break/suffer major damage from regular on-ice use, but the life of these blades is very short as there is not much steel to work with when you buy them initially. I have had players who bought Carbonlites at the start of the year and had to come in for replacements during the season because they didn't have enough blade left. I generally recommend LS Pulse TI to any of my customers who are looking for a premium quality Bauer blade. I have found that Step Blacksteel is the best blade that I have personally used, but it is pretty hard to come by now in a Bauer mold since CCM acquired Step.