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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

Buzz_LightBeer

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Posts posted by Buzz_LightBeer


  1. I’ve had a few brands of coated steel and in my experience at least, they tend to go dull unexpectedly and all of the sudden. In Randow spots all over. 
    not gradually like a stainless would. Maybe the intensity of the league matters too, I do t think they take kindly to contact with boards, other blades, etc


  2. 11 hours ago, Leif said:

    I don’t see the point of using a flatter hollow wheel to flatten off the blade before doing a full resharpen with the desired wheel. That flatter hollow wheel will be the same price as the final wheel, and it will cut at the same rate. Okay, I have some spare wheels I don’t use, which I could use as steel munchers, so to speak, if the blades had a lot of damage that needed be stripped off. But not everyone has wheels they don’t normally use lying around. 

    My understanding is that a cross grind is done with a coarser wheel, so it takes more material off in each pass. Yup, the Sparx flat ring is indeed coarser than a standard ring. 

    It's less a matter of flattening the blade as it is removing the factory polish or coating. New blades come very inconsistent on the bottom, but the coating really gums up a sharpening wheel. Removing that first layer with a mostly flat hollow makes the first sharpen and every subsequent one easier. If you try to do a new cut with a normal hollow, at least with a traditional sharpening wheel, you heat the steel and do a number on the wheel unnecessarily. Plus it takes twice the time. I imagine the same principle applies with these sharpening rings.

    Also, I would put out there that a "flat" ring and say a 1 1/2" hollow are reasonably similar at those widths, you could accomplish the same with either

    • Like 1

  3. I did iterations of the “retail custom” MIC skates in the FT2, FT4 and FT6, had great experiences with all three. The fit and customization was great. 
    As long as you’re committing to that, definitely find the most reputable shop close to you, and you should do fine. 

    • Like 1

  4. People will probably disagree with me but as you said, I’d play around with profiles long before I’d do a holder swap. There isn’t enough difference in size or amount of steel on the ice at any given time to justify it imo. 
    a good profiler could look at your current blades, get a general idea of the balance point and ice contact you like and get you something similar to what you’ve been using.

    it will likely take longer to adjust to the boots than the blades anyway. 

    • Like 2
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