ReggieDunlop

i did own one for awhile but ended up not using it as much - once you get the holder dialed in - just not needed as much. I make some passes and check with my edge checker (on the back of the blade and towards the front) if I need an adjustment with holder dials. I'm sure there are cheaper versions that could simulate the same process for example - - https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html - Might get you in the ball park for the fine tuning but not as accurate as the real deal

yes that was my problem when I started - I was slipping my (under) boot while crossing over - skates were sharp 90/75 just not enough contact while transitioning -I am a bigger player 6'3" and long strides - so profile change was needed -while I was looking into it my teammate skates noticed how much heavier my skates were and his MX3's seemed like half the weight after a game - so then I wanted lighter skates - bought the supreme 1s skates and noticed the length difference and had to find a good profile to match my skating - so yes you're correct - changed everything - but I think I have some things isolated down and doing it again with a different boot - Idiots rule - glutton for punishment. Slightly disappointed when I noticed the CCM steel is even longer with 287 stamped on the holder - I'm sure I'll be fine with same profile selected and either insole will give more pitch or neutral depending on feel.

yes - on the Grafs I had 8/12 combo 90/75 cut - 1s steel has 6/8/12 triple 90/50 cut - but I went through several different profiles with Quad's/Custom profiles to get it similar to having shorter steel feel and a different profile. I am getting my steel back soon with same 6/8/12 90/50 and hoping my new boots CCM FT1's give me better control of the blades with either Super Feet Carbon or Speed Plates installed depending on boot pitch provided. Had Shock Doctors in Bauer's.

Curious why each company makes different size steel and labels it the same size or similar number but are not - I understand profiling and contact - Maybe I should've profiled the longest blades with a 7/11 combo knowing more steel - give slightly less contact than a triple - just never noticed length are so different and adds to the science of agility skating with boot fitting/make/model/pitch/profile all contribute to skating. Some pro like a longer blade and move up a holder/blade length

Curious why actual blade lengths differ from brands of holders. I thought a measurement from point A to point B was a static finite number. For example Grafs cobras on a size 10.5 boot have a 288 mm stamped on the steel. Bauer's have a 288 mm on a size 10 boot and is slightly longer in length steel more like a 290 mm. Now I received a pair of CCM's FT1's with SB 4.0 holders and ordered new steel and the blade length is even longer than the Bauer's in length (maybe a 292 mm and labeled as 287). Why? Why not use the true size measurement? -Having more steel on the ice creates a feeling of skating on ski's that I know profiling can somewhat change - but why do they do this? I was having some issues going from Graf skates to Bauer's because of the extra steel on the ice - figured the CCM labeled 287's would be a safe bet to have less contact only to find out the steel is actually longer. There are some benefits I have gain some speed, but lost some agility until I profiled to a 6/8/12 and changed my cut from 5/8 to 13/16 (fbv 90/75 to 90/50) to address the chattering. I wanted a lighter boot with slightly less steel than the Bauer 1s's and failed with the numbers provided - any reason why? Besides just trying to make themselves proprietary to the industry from their Engineer concepts -is there a reason? I know my skating style and I am more agile with less blade contact and thought I finally got it right, but getting hurt occasionally falling because of the additional steel making contact - thanks

Update - I was able to get the steel profiled to a quad zero +1 and it has solved the problems - Removing the heel lifts I had under the insoles and changing profiles has stopped the catching and chattering while stopping or turning - (less steel on the ice with less pitch.) I hope when you guys put your database together has some good information to save people like me costly experimenting to find what my muscle memory and stride have been trained with old gear. Nobody tells you ProSharp quads are already pitched forward in every article I have read - thanks for that info - I feel much more comfortable on my blades now. I know shorter radius equals less speed but for me I can certainly take quicker steps to get up to speed. Might have to start a survey to help with your investigations on player style, size, position, cut, length of blades, brand etc....Good luck and thanks again JR and Nicholas

What's the best solution to go from a Quad 1+2 to Quad 0 +1 - cross grind flat or just let it rip knowing it's mostly only going to hit the back end changing the 12/15 to a 11/13 at a +1 angle of attack Front end of both quad is same 6/9

Sorry Nicholas this was for Mr JR Boucicaut and he has answered (thank you) - not going into what's wrong with 10' stock - As I stated I was comfortable with a 8/12 combo but was slipping during cross overs - meaning not enough blade on the ice for my stride - blades were sharp too. I did remove the generic cushion heel lifts that I had under my insoles and it did feel better and no catching towards the back end of the blade this morning - next I will change profiles to get slightly less blade on the ice and better turning from Quad 1 to Quad 0 and change the pitch from +2 to +1 - I can send a picture later -but they are getting lower trying to tune them - had them profiled 2 times already

Hello JR Been awhile but I have a tough one I hope you can help - I have switched from Grafs to Bauer 1S boots recently - -I was very comfortably in 288 mm with 8/12 combo slight pitch on the Grafs - my 1S also have 288 but when I compare the steel the Bauer blades are longer - not sure why they both state 288 when really Bauer should be 292 - I also was slipping with crossing over with 8/12 and 90/75 FBV cut so I figured I would try quad profiling too. I have been going in circles - -first no icings custom quad not sure of numbers since claim trade secret - -was not close to what I wanted -lean too far back - figured I would get something close to the .5 quad (8,10,12,14) but not available and they suggested one of their own - next I tried the Quad 2 (7,10,13,16) w/ +2 way too long for me - Then tried the quad 1 w+2 which was better, but still after moving up to 85/50 still feel to much blade and getting chattering and still need sharper turns. Also I should mention I have some catching about 3/4 way on the blade - makes my skates have a blow out - thought it was bent blades but they are new black steel - Do you think it is possible the heel from the +2 is too high causing me to blow out? I think I should lower the pitch to a +1 so they don't catch and shorten my radius to quad 0 for better turns and lil less blade on the ice should help with chattering and turning- - am i on the right track? - I also tried using a gel cushion under footbed to help like a shim to get me more on my toes to adjust Bauer from Grafs - I'm thinking to remove those as well - any suggestions? - I can't suffer another blow out - tore both my mcl's recently - hopefully I'm on the right track

It is possible sharpening has changed the profile over time - I would get them re-profiled and should feel good again - some suggest every 6 months

I use the edge pro - cheap enough and works - I also put tape on the two sides to protect the steel and the tool from wear(JR suggested to do this???) - works great - I like seeing the light through the tool gives me a good reading and I know how much to adjust my height

Do the math - 2 pairs a month at $7 a pair vs $4 a pair at ProformanceEdges - NoIcing $14 a month x 12 = $168 vs $8 a month x 12 = $96 - saving $72 a year for the same thing

Yes it is possible to send the steel out - best to use a mailing tube - wrap the steel together in bubble wrap and mail it priority mail - same rate as parcel post but gets there faster - www.ProFormanceEdges.com only have the 90/75 - which is like the 1/2 to 9/16 cut to me - $4 a pair good cut - cheaper then most - shipping sucks unless you have more then one pair to send - I think its the same priority rate for up to 3 pair of blades

Will the league finally discipline a star player for a dirty contact hit to the knee or hope his injury will teach him his own lesson? - I personally like the way he plays - very intense - passionate player - but he has done this to Sergei Gonchar in the playoffs last year too! Repeat offenders often do get some sort of fine and suspension. I don't think he is leaning with the shoulder Bruce! http://i49.tinypic.com/6h3gw3.jpg

Did not know that maybe someone ought to tell BM that - cause they told me that at New England Sports (BM) - they had some guys name attached to the 6000 holder - can't remember the inventor but it was strictly for BM. Not surprised - most of these reps from both companies might have a used cars sales back-round or insurance sales!!!

Just curious what happened to the Pens message board?

Another topic on Blademasters alternative method http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...;hl=blademaster Just curious JR does that mean BM is infringing? Because they have a different method of applying their alternative wheels to the stone - I don't see how these 2 companies can invent something and the other isn't going to find an alternative method - dressing the wheel, or even the holders, who had the 3 dial in system first? SH6000 or the Tri-Lie U-12 - True BM invented this holder and now BS offers a cheaper model that has the exact same .001 inch increments - not surprised BM has come out to compete with the BS FBV system and offer it at a lower price -

Is there an alternative to the expensive BladeMaster height comparator tool to find the center of the wheel during sharpening blades. I have heard of some using a digital height gauge, or is there a generic height gauge that does the same trick. Post any pics or do tell tricks to speed up the sharpening process without losing quality. I do use the Blackstone tri-lie holder with the edge-pro level gauge and I do get a good even level finish, but I want to be more accurate on the first pass especially with the Flat Bottom V (FBV) cuts. Also a tool like that would help me in determining slightly bent blades and making corrections if necessary.