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  • Skates
    Graf G70
  • Stick
    Bauer 1N OPS
  • Gloves
    Bauer MX3's
  • Helmet
  • Pants
    RBK 9K
  • Shoulder Pads
    Reebok 6K pro
  • Elbow Pads
  • Shin Pads
    Bauer 1S
  • Hockey Bag

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  1. i did own one for awhile but ended up not using it as much - once you get the holder dialed in - just not needed as much. I make some passes and check with my edge checker (on the back of the blade and towards the front) if I need an adjustment with holder dials. I'm sure there are cheaper versions that could simulate the same process for example - - https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html - Might get you in the ball park for the fine tuning but not as accurate as the real deal
  2. yes that was my problem when I started - I was slipping my (under) boot while crossing over - skates were sharp 90/75 just not enough contact while transitioning -I am a bigger player 6'3" and long strides - so profile change was needed -while I was looking into it my teammate skates noticed how much heavier my skates were and his MX3's seemed like half the weight after a game - so then I wanted lighter skates - bought the supreme 1s skates and noticed the length difference and had to find a good profile to match my skating - so yes you're correct - changed everything - but I think I have some things isolated down and doing it again with a different boot - Idiots rule - glutton for punishment. Slightly disappointed when I noticed the CCM steel is even longer with 287 stamped on the holder - I'm sure I'll be fine with same profile selected and either insole will give more pitch or neutral depending on feel.
  3. yes - on the Grafs I had 8/12 combo 90/75 cut - 1s steel has 6/8/12 triple 90/50 cut - but I went through several different profiles with Quad's/Custom profiles to get it similar to having shorter steel feel and a different profile. I am getting my steel back soon with same 6/8/12 90/50 and hoping my new boots CCM FT1's give me better control of the blades with either Super Feet Carbon or Speed Plates installed depending on boot pitch provided. Had Shock Doctors in Bauer's.
  4. Curious why each company makes different size steel and labels it the same size or similar number but are not - I understand profiling and contact - Maybe I should've profiled the longest blades with a 7/11 combo knowing more steel - give slightly less contact than a triple - just never noticed length are so different and adds to the science of agility skating with boot fitting/make/model/pitch/profile all contribute to skating. Some pro like a longer blade and move up a holder/blade length
  5. Curious why actual blade lengths differ from brands of holders. I thought a measurement from point A to point B was a static finite number. For example Grafs cobras on a size 10.5 boot have a 288 mm stamped on the steel. Bauer's have a 288 mm on a size 10 boot and is slightly longer in length steel more like a 290 mm. Now I received a pair of CCM's FT1's with SB 4.0 holders and ordered new steel and the blade length is even longer than the Bauer's in length (maybe a 292 mm and labeled as 287). Why? Why not use the true size measurement? -Having more steel on the ice creates a feeling of skating on ski's that I know profiling can somewhat change - but why do they do this? I was having some issues going from Graf skates to Bauer's because of the extra steel on the ice - figured the CCM labeled 287's would be a safe bet to have less contact only to find out the steel is actually longer. There are some benefits I have gain some speed, but lost some agility until I profiled to a 6/8/12 and changed my cut from 5/8 to 13/16 (fbv 90/75 to 90/50) to address the chattering. I wanted a lighter boot with slightly less steel than the Bauer 1s's and failed with the numbers provided - any reason why? Besides just trying to make themselves proprietary to the industry from their Engineer concepts -is there a reason? I know my skating style and I am more agile with less blade contact and thought I finally got it right, but getting hurt occasionally falling because of the additional steel making contact - thanks
  6. Update - I was able to get the steel profiled to a quad zero +1 and it has solved the problems - Removing the heel lifts I had under the insoles and changing profiles has stopped the catching and chattering while stopping or turning - (less steel on the ice with less pitch.) I hope when you guys put your database together has some good information to save people like me costly experimenting to find what my muscle memory and stride have been trained with old gear. Nobody tells you ProSharp quads are already pitched forward in every article I have read - thanks for that info - I feel much more comfortable on my blades now. I know shorter radius equals less speed but for me I can certainly take quicker steps to get up to speed. Might have to start a survey to help with your investigations on player style, size, position, cut, length of blades, brand etc....Good luck and thanks again JR and Nicholas
  7. What's the best solution to go from a Quad 1+2 to Quad 0 +1 - cross grind flat or just let it rip knowing it's mostly only going to hit the back end changing the 12/15 to a 11/13 at a +1 angle of attack Front end of both quad is same 6/9
  8. Sorry Nicholas this was for Mr JR Boucicaut and he has answered (thank you) - not going into what's wrong with 10' stock - As I stated I was comfortable with a 8/12 combo but was slipping during cross overs - meaning not enough blade on the ice for my stride - blades were sharp too. I did remove the generic cushion heel lifts that I had under my insoles and it did feel better and no catching towards the back end of the blade this morning - next I will change profiles to get slightly less blade on the ice and better turning from Quad 1 to Quad 0 and change the pitch from +2 to +1 - I can send a picture later -but they are getting lower trying to tune them - had them profiled 2 times already
  9. Hello JR Been awhile but I have a tough one I hope you can help - I have switched from Grafs to Bauer 1S boots recently - -I was very comfortably in 288 mm with 8/12 combo slight pitch on the Grafs - my 1S also have 288 but when I compare the steel the Bauer blades are longer - not sure why they both state 288 when really Bauer should be 292 - I also was slipping with crossing over with 8/12 and 90/75 FBV cut so I figured I would try quad profiling too. I have been going in circles - -first no icings custom quad not sure of numbers since claim trade secret - -was not close to what I wanted -lean too far back - figured I would get something close to the .5 quad (8,10,12,14) but not available and they suggested one of their own - next I tried the Quad 2 (7,10,13,16) w/ +2 way too long for me - Then tried the quad 1 w+2 which was better, but still after moving up to 85/50 still feel to much blade and getting chattering and still need sharper turns. Also I should mention I have some catching about 3/4 way on the blade - makes my skates have a blow out - thought it was bent blades but they are new black steel - Do you think it is possible the heel from the +2 is too high causing me to blow out? I think I should lower the pitch to a +1 so they don't catch and shorten my radius to quad 0 for better turns and lil less blade on the ice should help with chattering and turning- - am i on the right track? - I also tried using a gel cushion under footbed to help like a shim to get me more on my toes to adjust Bauer from Grafs - I'm thinking to remove those as well - any suggestions? - I can't suffer another blow out - tore both my mcl's recently - hopefully I'm on the right track
  10. It is possible sharpening has changed the profile over time - I would get them re-profiled and should feel good again - some suggest every 6 months
  11. Nope out of stock - I emailed the guy asking why $400 for a pair of vapor shins - - says the will go back to regular price on Friday why they get stock back - -why he is doing this - cost money to list on ebay doesn't it? What a d-noz
  12. The purpose of using something is to have the steel not heat up too hot during a slow final pass - some do cake up the wheel and all will slightly coat the wheel until burned off or dressed again - -just preference- - ivory soap is cheap easy to apply and accessible at all grocery stores - made from --- Ivory website: "What are Ivory's ingredients? Ivory Soap is made of both vegetable oils and animal fats. Two different kinds of vegetable oils are used in Ivory - coconut oil and palm kernel oil. We add a preservative, less than ½ of 1% of magnesium sulfate and sodium silicate, to keep the bar as white as its name. Ivory contains no heavy perfumes, creams or dyes. A light fragrance is added to provide that Ivory clean smell." I know at least with the LubeTube I can see the residue on the wheel with the soap I can't - but again it's not wax ingredients burns off quicker then LubeTube I would like to know what some use after called "sauce" wax-teflon applied that penetrates in the steel? close Jimmy???
  13. Use Stainless steel buffing compound? http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/accessories/buffing_accessories/A01AG15 No stone after last pass? - safety first - glasses? Grow the moustache instead of the beard
  14. Second to last pass looks like he is using FineShine http://www.blackstonesport.com/product_details.cfm?product_id=75 Last pass a product called LubeTube from Blackstone - don't see it on the website anymore - really cakes up the wheels including the dressing spinner - old skoolers (Bob Allen) use Ivory soap on the blades before last pass or a wax crayon which has the same effect. Personally I think it's the wheel and steel that gives the best finish - BladeMaster has a gold wheel that works great better then most preferred wheels but not for high volume skate shops - most use the Ruby wheel because they can get more skates per wheel then the softer gold wheel - StepSteel on a gold wheel with Soap+LubeTube I swear you can see yourself on the bottom of the blade! Don't know what the coin is = nickel rolling on Telfon coated blade? - I'm I close JR?
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