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Ogie Oglethorpe

Just an idea for a hockey product

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I wonder if anyone has ever thought of making some sort of converter so a tapered shaft could take a standard sized blade hosel? It could be made out of aluminum (light weight, durable, readily available, and inexpensive). The tenon would be tapered, but would flare open to take a standard sized blade.

Thus, you could almost make a Zbubble like shaft...

In fact, if the basic model worked, you could do a lot to enhance the product - for instance, with the aluminum tenon you could make it ridged to allow it to accept more glue, or serated so it'd be harder to pull out, or have some sort of spring inside so that when a blade is inserted "wings" extend to make it steadier inside the tapered shaft (since the tenon will have room between the shaft walls and the top of the tenon once it's inserted in the shaft) and so forth.

This would also help make the shaft longer (anyone who has converted a broken synnergy into a shaft knows the loss of length in the shaft), and there are more sr. tenon blades available than tapered.

Just a thought... but seems like this is a product that could have a big market....

Anyone here a metal-worker? Bet we could get some made special for MSH. There are some folks on here who work in pro shops who could pick up a dozen and see if they could sell. If it worked out, MSH could have an interesting little side market.

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It would make the stick completely unbalanced in a bit of an awkward area.

I also really don't think something like that could add to performance. I could only see it working negatively.

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It'd likely only weight 10 grams, so not sure the balance would be an issue. As for performance, not sure that's really the idea per say. You'd be able to keep the benefits of a tapered shaft, but be able to choose from standard sized tenon blades, thus giving you a wider product range to choose from regarding replacement blades. Plus, since senior tenons are bigger, less breakage where the fuse point is (although, I might be able to argue the other way by saying the alum. would flex at a different rate than the shaft which could cause more breakage - one would have to test this aspect.

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i broke had broken ops that i flipped to use senior blades. not what you are talking about though. are you talking about a sleeve that fit over the end of the shaft?

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The lockjaw is similar to part of a possible concept that I mentioned (something to help with the fact that the tenon can "wiggle" at the end because the top of it is not touching the sides), but it is not what I am principly talking about. That aspect was merely a suggestion as to a possible modification if the basic part were to work.

Nor, actually, am I thinking about a sleeve to fit over the joint. What I was thinking was something like a tapered tenon to fit within the shaft itself. Then, a "female" recepticle (if you will) that would accept the "male" tenon of a standard blade.

Something like this:

hockeyconvertertaperedshaftsto.png

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Ogie,

You might want to edit your original post. I believe you typed "sr" blades when you meant standard blades. Of course we all knew what you were talking about, BUT just to avoid confusion..... ;)

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Ogie,

You might want to edit your original post. I believe you typed "sr" blades when you meant standard blades. Of course we all knew what you were talking about, BUT just to avoid confusion..... ;)

Done!

but it would completely ignore the purpose of a tapered stick. would it not?

No more than a ZBubble does. But this offers the someone the flexibility for the shaft to take either. I have a ton of std. blades that I'd like to use for my tapered shaft, but can't. Plus, there is a wider availability of std hoseled blades than there is tapered.

But, this would upset the kick point slightly (raising it 2 inches - same as a long hoseled tapered blade would - which is why they started using short hosels), no doubt. But, it doesn't defeat the purpose and science behind the tapered shaft.

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Again, it absolutely, positively, no more defeats the purpose than a ZBubble does (the ZBubbles are tapered, then flair out to take a sr sized blade). Also, blades don't cost that much? You look at the cost of a Inno composite lately? Most composite blades cost $40-50 usd these days. I'd say that's quite a bit.

Plus, you're still not addressing the fact that there are more standard hosel options available than tapered.

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ogie

thanks for showing the design idea. it is alot like reducing a pipe from 3/4 to 1/2. but wouldn't this put to much stress on the hossel area? why not look at getting inno's dual kit shaft. it is tapered. they built kick points into both ends at 12". so you can use std blades and tapered.

but it is an interesting idea.

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it is alot like reducing a pipe from 3/4 to 1/2.

Yeah, it's exactly like that.

As for the Inno Dual kick has a design flaw to a certain degree. There is a kick point built in both ends. Wouldn't you think this would effect performance? Bauer tried something similar to this (not the dual kick point mind you) with their tri-flex, didn't they? Where the stick would bow out at both ends? That stick was not very well rec'd. Regardless, you want the kick to happen where you are focusing the power (towards the bottom). You don't want part of the power robbed by "kicking" at the glove handle end as well (although, you're not focusing as much on that end, but you catch my drift).

Also, then when you use the standard blades you still have a wierd tapered shaft to hold onto in your glove hand.

Furthermore, for those who already have a tapered shaft (or converting a broken OPS) could use something like this so they can use the remaining blades they may have lying around, or perhaps there's a standard sized blade pattern or manufacturer that doesn't come in a tapered style that you want to use.....

Again, the idea is not that this would change the world and be desired by all, but it is something that one can likely see some folks would want and use.

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I really don't think the dual kicks have a flaw, the stick will flex where your bottom hand is even if there is 2 kick points enginered into the shaft. The shaft doesn't automatically flex at the top just because there is another kick point.

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Id just buy a Z-Bubble

I was figuring that something like this would cost about $10, so you'd just rather buy a $100 zbubble? When people break their OPS, why do they bother cutting the blade off and re-using the shaft when they can just go out and buy a new one? Because it's cheaper not to.

BUT... you're right - I was just thinking out loud/brainstorming like you had said (mostly because I have only one tapered blade - an old Mission ether composite that I don't care for that much, but I have 6 std blades)

I really don't think the dual kicks have a flaw, the stick will flex where your bottom hand is even if there is 2 kick points enginered into the shaft. The shaft doesn't automatically flex at the top just because there is another kick point.

No, it wouldn't flex a ton, you're right.... but it WOULD flex a little.....

BUT, again, that's not really the point here. I don't think a bunch of people would buy this when they buy a new shaft. They'd buy something like this in conjunction with their already having a shaft, but one that doesn't offer the options they want.

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The problem I see, other than stress, is length. If your going to cut the shaft anyways, to make up for the piece you've added, why not just flip it over, or cut out the taper all together?

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You're right - as mentioned earlier, this could theoretically add stress. However, so do Y jacks for stereo equipment as well as power strips (6 plugs on a strip for your computer all drawing off of one power socket), as would a longer plug, and so forth.

This, of course, could be more stress than a plug, but you see my point.

Why not just cut the shaft up higher? That's a lot of shaft (10 inch taper) and for all people that would require a very, very, very long plug to make up for that (I already have a 6 inch plug, don't need a longer one than that).

Besides, this would give you the option of changing back and forth.

I'm not a fan of flipping. As mentioned earlier, the taper handle would be in your glove (odd shaped) and you defite the purpose of both the concept behind the taper as well as the kickpoint. Might as well but a $30 octane shaft then.

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Interesting concept. IF you can get them produced, marketed and shipped so they can retail for $10 I can see some kids buying them so they can slap a z-carbon in the right end of their broken synergy.

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I see what you are saying Ogie, but you are cutting a plug once you add the height. I haven't cut an OPS for a few years, I didn't think it would be 10" to have a standard blade fit.

I think there would be a market for the other way as well, turning standard into tapered. Maybe a dual product?

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Interesting concept. IF you can get them produced, marketed and shipped so they can retail for $10 I can see some kids buying them so they can slap a z-carbon in the right end of their broken synergy.

Yep, a lot of if's. Again, it's just something I pondered (actually, given the same situation you mentioned above). Plus, the plug would help solve some of the length when you cut the synnergy (as well as gives you options for any tapered shafts you have around).

BUT, yeah, can you make it for $10? The materials would certainly cost less than that. Also, I have to wonder how strong the joint would be between the two different pieces of aluminum (presuming it's not forged as one piece somehow, there'd have to be a weld joining the tapered part to the standard part).

I think it could be done. I wish I still had my aluminum shaft around, I could cut a piece off and have a buddy weld something to it to see how well it would work in principle (weight issues, balance, how much stress it'd put on the shaft).

Regardless, seems you agree - there would be SOME people that would go for it.

I see what you are saying Ogie, but you are cutting a plug once you add the height. I haven't cut an OPS for a few years, I didn't think it would be 10" to have a standard blade fit.

The taper is that long, isn't it? How much would you have to cut off a TFlex shaft to get it to take a std blade? Even if it is less than 10, it's still quite a ways (and the actual shaft portion would then be pretty tiny, no kick point, no taper benefits) and... you could never go back once you made that decision. This? Don't like it? Heat it and take it out.

I think there would be a market for the other way as well, turning standard into tapered. Maybe a dual product?

If you can do it in one direction, no reason why you couldn't do it in the other. Of course, since the tapered tenon is smaller, you might be able to devise something that fits over the tenon and it fit inside the senior shaft to make the transition.

Either way, I wonder who one would have to talk to to get one made up? Not (necessarily) for distribution or sales, but just to try out (and have for my own purposes if it worked).

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The only real problem I see is that its going to create a horrible dead point. As people always complaining about puck feel, the idea of the blade not even being directly connected to what the skater is holding would provide very interesting results, especially for shooting.

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i see one problem... the stick would be to long and you would end up having the cut it. people buy taper shafts because it gives them a lower kick point adding an extra units to the end of it would kill it.

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The only real problem I see is that its going to create a horrible dead point
. Yep, it would definitely flex differently at that spot. Not sure how it'd relate regarding puck feel though.
the stick would be to long and you would end up having the cut it.

The added length would only be as long as a hosel (2 to 2.5 inches). You'd only have to cut the shaft if you were shorter and if you weren't already using a plug. If you were using a converted Synnergy, you lose quite a bit in length when cutting to convert to a shaft. I'm betting taht this factor wouldn't be as bad as you think.

people buy taper shafts because it gives them a lower kick point adding an extra units to the end of it would kill it.
That has been mentioned. The kick point wouldn't be killed, but it would be 2 inches higher up (the length of the tenon). But, again, the point isn't that this is meant ot do something dramatic to enhance performance, but add flexibility. Think about the SUV. You give something up in performance and gas mileage for convenience of all around utility. Plus, this is something that could be taken out as easily as a balde. If priced right, I'm betting people would buy it figuring they could use it a few times just to see if they could get some utility out of it. Sure, there's trade offs. But, in the example of the broken Synnergy (not all will be converted ops, of course), you're already losing some of the performance and stick dynamics.

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I wonder who one would have to talk to to get one made up?

Ogie,

I wonder whether Joe Casasanta of Oggie Grip would be able to do this. I'll email him. He's told me his background is the family owned a die and tool shop, which is one reason he was able to design the grips.

I'll also ask Sweden to look into it, but it would seem to be more of a product for a company like Oggie.

Jason

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