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cougarscaptain87

Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

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It's not all about the weight difference though. It's about the rigidity. The aluminum will bend, while the magnesium will not.

That's interesting. What is the benefit of rigidity? Do you use the term "rigidity" to mean "more resistant to being ruined by impact"?

To me that seems plausible, but I am not an engineer. My layman's conjecture is that magnesium is brittle, but can take a more abuse than aluminum before cracking. I'd like to hear a knowledgeable voice on that.

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I've seen all sorts aluminum frames dent all the time from shots, some hard shots, some not so hard that just hit the right spot.


I've yet to see someones Mag Chassis dent though.

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I was under the impression it was weight. To my knowledge, forged aluminum is harder and more rigid than magnesium.

http://www.differencebetween.net/object/difference-between-aluminum-and-magnesium/

Thanks for that link. I've held Vanguards of both materials in my hands side by side for comparison, and while the mg chassis was slightly lighter, it wasn't an impressive difference.

I'll research more and post back here when I'm not as busy with school work, but I've been reading around automotive and bicycle forum posts about magnesium components for some anecdotal wisdom on the topic. Generally, I'm finding that weight and strength vs. aluminum depends on the alloy and the mass of the component. For things like gearbox casings and wheels, which are relatively high mass, the weight difference is significant enough to contribute greatly to performance. For smaller components, the weight difference is practically negligible.

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A magnesium frame will crack, but it is highly unlikely that it will bend. The aluminum the skate manufacturers use is unlikely to crack, but will bend.

Edited by kovalchuk71

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Appreciate all the feedback and the debate. I decided to just order a pair of the new aluminum Hi-Lo frames from inlinewarehouse.com, got em for 62.59 with free shipping using the 15% off code. If I can make a pair of 1999 Wicked Lights last 13 years with the original Carbon Fiber chassis still intact, I can make aluminum work. If I get blown away with an offer in the next few days I can always return them.

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I guess it depends on the thickness of the aluminum and how exactly it was manufactured. I used Red Star E Frames that are machined aluminum for over 7 years, taken countless shots off of them, and they have never come close to bending.

Anyway I just recently converted my first generation 9K's from the Red Star E Frames to the Labeda Sensor. I was not too happy with the performance of the conversion, personally love the traditional hi-lo setup too much, so I am going to be getting rid of my old setup. I just picked up some Bauer one.6 skates and will be using the Red Star E Frames again. I have baked the skates twice and the fit feels great, super pumped to convert them and skate!

Sneak Peek

004_zps422e26d5.jpg

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Bauer Supreme one.7's with mission aluminum vanguard chassis. New set of revisions variants on the way. Did anybody have to file/shave down part of the sole of the boot for clearance of the 76mm wheels?

33kptug.jpg

Edited by datsvechkin

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I just weighed our Magnessium Chassis and it came in at 135 grams. This is for a size Medium.



Also, our regular size Medium chassis (fully extruded - used on the CA7 and CA5) weighs 178 grams.

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Bauer Supreme one.7's with mission aluminum vanguard chassis. New set of revisions variants on the way. Did anybody have to file/shave down part of the sole of the boot for clearance of the 76mm wheels?

33kptug.jpg

I love the way those One7's look, great skates!

So my last re-conversion of the 1st gen 9K's with the Labeda Sensor chassis did not go well. I picked up some Bauer One6's and went with the good old Red Star E Frame. I love the skates, I baked them twice and the fit is amazing. Super light skates and felt great the first time out! Thanks to stock07 for trading wheels wtih me. :smile:

One6001_zps6a709556.jpg

One6002_zps441c890e.jpg

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I love the way those One7's look, great skates!

So my last re-conversion of the 1st gen 9K's with the Labeda Sensor chassis did not go well. I picked up some Bauer One6's and went with the good old Red Star E Frame. I love the skates, I baked them twice and the fit is amazing. Super light skates and felt great the first time out! Thanks to stock07 for trading wheels wtih me. :smile:

Great looking build - T-Nuts or Graf screws?

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I did not use the 4th hole on the chassis because it was too close to the edge of the sole and I did not want to sacrifice proper alignment of the chassis to get all 4 bolted in. I did not want to pull the heel area out of shape or ruin the integrity of the boot as well in the proper position. The T-Nuts are strong enough to hold with only 3 and my old setup ran with only 3 on the back for over 5 years without issue.

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I was playing around with the T-nuts yesterday (basically taking off the LS2 holder and remounting it with T-nuts and bolts) and experienced some problems with spinning T-Nuts (thereby cutting the insole a little bit :/) even though I didn't clip the 4 prongs. How do you guys handle spinning T-nuts, and do you clip the prongs (which would cause even more spinning I suppose?)?

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To prevent the T-Nuts from spinning I will put my hand in the boot and apply a bunch of pressure to the T-Nut. I always clip the prongs with a pair of sidecutters. I think it helps prevent spinning because the edges are much sharper and allows the T-Nut to grab the sole better.

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To prevent the T-Nuts from spinning I will put my hand in the boot and apply a bunch of pressure to the T-Nut. I always clip the prongs with a pair of sidecutters. I think it helps prevent spinning because the edges are much sharper and allows the T-Nut to grab the sole better.

Where can one purchase t-nuts? How difficult is the install? Would like this option for converting my one95 boots.

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Where can one purchase t-nuts? How difficult is the install? Would like this option for converting my one95 boots.

Before I started doing a lot of pairs of skates for myself and other people I would just go to Ace Hardware. Then I realized that it was not exactly cost effective and purchased a ton from an online retailer. It is not that difficult, I would just take your time and be sure to line up everything properly. If you cannot find the hardware anywhere near you I can sell you some of mine for pretty cheap.

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I should be able to find it. Did you use 4 prong or 3 prong t nuts? I can't believe this isn't a standard thing way easier than rivets and in terms of swapping holders it seems like a pretty easy way to do it. Did you order them from mcmaster-carr?

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