Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

[ob2rescue 1]

not really south jersey but sports exchange in howell has a couple guys who do really good conversion.

[fcvapor05 1]

Here is the pictures of the EQ50's I said I would post. Loving them so far, took a game to get used to the 80/76 setup. Got a great deal to have the local pro shop put em on for me ($20).

***Pics****

Awesome. I joined this forum specifically because of an ad for a pair of EQ50s, with the intent of putting a pair of Mission Vanguard hi/lo frames on them, almost the same setup that you have.

Question for the guys that have done this (sorry if it's been asked and answered in this thread already...) but I'm likely going to do this myself with t-nuts (have had my LHS screw stuff up for me before, don't want that to happen) so the question is, is there a trick or rule of thumb for aligning the chassis to the boot? I want to make sure they are properly aligned and also spaced properly between the toe and heel, if that makes sense.

[Billyraye 1]

Thanks for posting the pics! They look awesome! I was wondering if they were able to use any of the existing holes? It seems like some of the new rivets fall close to where the old holes would be but it's hard to tell.

Having trouble deciding between converting an EQ40 or going with a supreme boot... the price of the EQ40's is really making me lean that way =p

You are quite welcome good sir! Looks like they used the back two holes on the inside of the skate. Rest are new. None of them "bleed" into the other holes. Try on the 50's before you buy the 40's, was going to buy 40's until i slipped on the 50's.

Awesome. I joined this forum specifically because of an ad for a pair of EQ50s, with the intent of putting a pair of Mission Vanguard hi/lo frames on them, almost the same setup that you have.

Question for the guys that have done this (sorry if it's been asked and answered in this thread already...) but I'm likely going to do this myself with t-nuts (have had my LHS screw stuff up for me before, don't want that to happen) so the question is, is there a trick or rule of thumb for aligning the chassis to the boot? I want to make sure they are properly aligned and also spaced properly between the toe and heel, if that makes sense.

Lol, I also joined because of the EQ50. The price for the quality is just disgusting. Spent about $325 on the boot,frame, and mount. I thought about self mounting but the guy who did mine is a friend of a friend so I knew the quality would be good.

Edited February 14, 2013 by Billyraye

[greasy17 19]

Awesome. I joined this forum specifically because of an ad for a pair of EQ50s, with the intent of putting a pair of Mission Vanguard hi/lo frames on them, almost the same setup that you have.

Question for the guys that have done this (sorry if it's been asked and answered in this thread already...) but I'm likely going to do this myself with t-nuts (have had my LHS screw stuff up for me before, don't want that to happen) so the question is, is there a trick or rule of thumb for aligning the chassis to the boot? I want to make sure they are properly aligned and also spaced properly between the toe and heel, if that makes sense.

I will mark with a Sharpie on the toe and heel of the boot where I want to center of the wheels to line up, this will locate the chassis side to side. With the front/back wheels on the chassis I will set the boot on top of the chassis and balance it against something so the boot/chassis stand on their own. From there I will take 2 similar objects that will allow me to determine space between the end of the wheel and the front of the toe/back of the heel, I like to use empty beer bottles that I just polished off. Place the beer bottles touching the ends of the wheels on both the front and back. Then take a step back and see if the spacing is equa-distant. You can also use a front or back bias if you so choose to suit your skating style. Once the chassis is lined up front to back, make some more markings with a Sharpie to locate the chassis appropriately.

Once I have located the chassis to my liking, I will use clear hockey tape to wrap around the boot and chassis to hold it in its proper place. From there I will drill all of my pilot holes in the sole. Once the pilot holes are done, you can remove the chassis and go to the proper bit to fit the hardware. I like to use something slighty oversized to account for any error/making fine tuning adjustments. Hope this helps!!!

Edited February 14, 2013 by greasy17

[fcvapor05 1]

I will mark with a Sharpie on the toe and heel of the boot where I want to center of the wheels to line up, this will locate the chassis side to side. With the front/back wheels on the chassis I will set the boot on top of the chassis and balance it against something so the boot/chassis stand on their own. From there I will take 2 similar objects that will allow me to determine space between the end of the wheel and the front of the toe/back of the heel, I like to use empty beer bottles that I just polished off. Place the beer bottles touching the ends of the wheels on both the front and back. Then take a step back and see if the spacing is equa-distant. You can also use a front or back bias if you so choose to suit your skating style. Once the chassis is lined up front to back, make some more markings with a Sharpie to locate the chassis appropriately.

Once I have located the chassis to my liking, I will use clear hockey tape to wrap around the boot and chassis to hold it in its proper place. From there I will drill all of my pilot holes in the sole. Once the pilot holes are done, you can remove the chassis and go to the proper bit to fit the hardware. I like to use something slighty oversized to account for any error/making fine tuning adjustments. Hope this helps!!!

Thanks for the help. I guess I'm worried about the skates winding up weird because of misaligned chassis, but I guess a half mil here or there shouldn't affect things too much.

Any recommendations from the guys using t-nuts? Need to buy some hardware today.

Lol, I also joined because of the EQ50. The price for the quality is just disgusting. Spent about $325 on the boot,frame, and mount. I thought about self mounting but the guy who did mine is a friend of a friend so I knew the quality would be good.

Yeah I got very lucky. Was able to get a pair of EQ50s here for $135. I already had bearings, got a sweet deal on wheels and chassis from a friend thats a pro and gets discounts on revision/mission gear. Should have a complete setup for <$250. EQ50 boots, Mission Magnesium Vanguard Chassis, Revision Variant wheels, Bones Swiss Ceramic bearings. Hoping they will be a solid setup, and the price was right ha ha.

[greasy17 19]

I use a combination of 8-32 machine screws in 1/2" and 3/4" length. The 3/4" is seldom used, but sometimes the thickness of the rear portion of the skate sole requires it. The 3/4" screws also come in handy during assembly you need to pull the boot into place on the chassis when the 1/2" screws don't quite reach. My T-Nuts are 3 prong and the T portion is 3/4" in diameter.

[tehk 0]

I use a combination of 8-32 machine screws in 1/2" and 3/4" length. The 3/4" is seldom used, but sometimes the thickness of the rear portion of the skate sole requires it. The 3/4" screws also come in handy during assembly you need to pull the boot into place on the chassis when the 1/2" screws don't quite reach. My T-Nuts are 3 prong and the T portion is 3/4" in diameter.

I actually ran into that issue today. Ordered all 1/2 and 3/8 only to find out the One.9 Heel requires that extra 1/4 to an 1/8 depending on the side.

I learned a lot on this skate, and the White K skate I am just starting. Most importantly I learned that full composite outsoles are really hard to remove rivets from, while reebok outsoles let them come out like butter.

[Jay17 0]

You are quite welcome good sir! Looks like they used the back two holes on the inside of the skate. Rest are new. None of them "bleed" into the other holes. Try on the 50's before you buy the 40's, was going to buy 40's until i slipped on the 50's.

I've been to a number of stores around me and cannot find the 40's anywhere! I am new to the area though, but it seems like hockey stores around here don't seem to carry easton skates. I have tried on the 50's though, is there that big of a difference between the two? I really don't play much, so I can't really justify spending good dough on 'the best' skates. Hence why I'm opting for the eastons rather than a supreme boot even though the bauers fit me a tad better. I'm hoping that baking the eastons will make them perfect!

Thanks again.

[greasy17 19]

I actually ran into that issue today. Ordered all 1/2 and 3/8 only to find out the One.9 Heel requires that extra 1/4 to an 1/8 depending on the side.

I learned a lot on this skate, and the White K skate I am just starting. Most importantly I learned that full composite outsoles are really hard to remove rivets from, while reebok outsoles let them come out like butter.

The skates look great!

How are you removing rivets? I use a very small punch that I attach to a deep well socket and long 1/4" extension. The driving force is my 3 lbs. Estwing mini sledge!

[Billyraye 1]

I've been to a number of stores around me and cannot find the 40's anywhere! I am new to the area though, but it seems like hockey stores around here don't seem to carry easton skates. I have tried on the 50's though, is there that big of a difference between the two? I really don't play much, so I can't really justify spending good dough on 'the best' skates. Hence why I'm opting for the eastons rather than a supreme boot even though the bauers fit me a tad better. I'm hoping that baking the eastons will make them perfect!

Thanks again.

I wear Supreme 175's on ice. I found the fit on the EQ50's to be very similar once I baked them. I play once a week right now and I felt the upgrade was worth the $. I plan on this being the last pair of skates I will own (I am 32) so I wanted top of the line. The tounge is better and the inside has better materials (from what I have researched). There was definitely a difference in feel but might not be worth the $ to you.

[gosinger 122]

My first "serious" conversion (previous was a Vapor X3.0 with a Nike Rocker frame....more of a fun skate really):

Boot: One95 8EE (used, plenty battle-scars from the ice rink)

Frame: Mission Vanguard M (aluminium)

Wheels: 80-80-76-76 2x Easton 84A (white), Hyper 84A (orange) - those will change, but shop is out of stock...

Hardware: M4 T-Nuts, M4 stainless screws (10mm front, 16mm wheel with heel-lift), spring-lock washers

Edited February 16, 2013 by gosinger

[tehk 0]

Finished these today. I really need some green indoor wheels for the effect

[BucksAway 16]

hockeytron have decent inline wheels and they are green (:

[fcvapor05 1]

Had my first skate on ice yesterday, after skating only roller for a couple weeks. Definitely felt like my ice skates have a LOT more forward rake.

Does anyone have and recommendation offhand of doing heel risers vs. flat for roller?

I'm using an EQ50 boot with a Mission hi/lo chassis, and I've been skating roller on a pair of borrowed stock Bauer skates. Will my mission/easton setup have more forward rake than the Bauers do, and if not, is it wise to 18/"-1/4" of heel rise to get my roller and ice setups to feel similar?

[tehk 0]

What are people using as scuff guards on their conversions? My one.9s already are scuffed on the clear coat near the ankle and outside ball. I want to cover it before it eats into the upper

[romdj 26]

I used to use shoegoo but then realized it would be cheaper, safer (no solvant) and won't have any smell by using multi-purposes glue sticks that you heat up and apply with a stick gun. Some other guys use epoxy as well

[HBPuckstopper 0]

New goal setup:

[Beleafer 14]

How much would I be potentially spending to do a conversion myself? Just a mid-end job, doesn't need to be straight top of the line gear.

[Billyraye 1]

How much would I be potentially spending to do a conversion myself? Just a mid-end job, doesn't need to be straight top of the line gear.

It really all depends on how much you want to spend. I converted a pair of Easton EQ50's for $325 total (skates,chassis,shipping,tax).

[Beleafer 14]

It really all depends on how much you want to spend. I converted a pair of Easton EQ50's for $325 total (skates,chassis,shipping,tax).

What if I have the boots?

[Billyraye 1]

What if I have the boots?

You can find cheap chassis anywhere (think cheap old skates on an auction website) and mount them yourself for under $30 if you want. It honestely depends on how much you want to spend and the quality you are looking for. It is like asking, "How much does a car cost?

[darmin 2]

Bauer one.6 LE with a Hi-LO Mag Frame. Skated on tonight and really happy with my first bauer boot.

Completed conversion myself as well due to closest shop with a rivet machine now 1350km's away

Sorry about the sideways picture but photobucket wouldn't load the edit function for some reason

Edited March 18, 2013 by darmin

[iammerson 19]

how did u black out the frame like that?

[savethechief2011 0]

how did u black out the frame like that?

you powder coat them or sand and then spray paint.

[darmin 2]

its a frame of a mission boss and just rubed with steel wool til the graphics vanished