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iceburg19

Sprung Hockey

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You use 3/4 for the back and 1/2s for the front.

As for the T-Nut use 8/32nd.

As a side note, I remember Keith painting the Sprungs with the outside furniture paint? Looking at the hardware store I found some rubber coating paint that helps absorb shock and prevents plastics and stuff from becoming brittle....

It was called Plasti-Dip

Keith is this safe to use on the frames?

Thanks

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Plasti-dip is not really a paint, it is the stuff that makes up the colored rubbery grips that you find on a lot of wrenches and tools. The coating itself is the thing that is advertised as not becoming brittle, not the object it is covering.

As for t-nuts, I'm not exactly sure what size I used but 8/32 sounds about right. When I bought mine I just took my boots and chassis and and sized everything up there to make sure if fit. Make sure that you cut off the vertical grab tabs too, or else the t-nuts will stick up into your foot.

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Well, yes ;-) but itself is not becoming brittle..

.

Anyways... I'm sure it won't increase the durability of the Sprungs really, just perhaps an added protection, my big problem I have is the oxidation of the screws...

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I learned how to mount with T-nuts and bolts from reading Keiths (the Sprung guy) posts. I have used 6-32 bolts and T-nuts and I have also used 8-32 bolts and T-nuts but I like the 6-32 bolts and nuts better because they are easier to work with and a little smaller in diameter. I also use a cutter that you screw the bolts into and then cut them off what ever length you want which comes in real handy. I think I have been using a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill the holes. The 6-32 bolts are a metric size I believe which if I understand correctly actually stands for #6 metric bolt (approx. 1/8 inch in diameter) with 32 threads per 1 inch of bolt length. They seem to be approximately the same diameter as a normal rivet used for mounting. The 8-32 bolts are a little bigger (in diameter) but the total outside diameter of the t-nuts is bigger also which is a little tougher to deal with at the heel of the boot so that is why I have gone back to the 6-32. The mounting method is rigid and solid and I have had no problems. I check the bolts for tightness every so often and tighten if needed and you can also remove the chassis or remount it any time you want with no problems. Its actually pretty cool because I have switched my Sprungs from one boot (Tacks) to the other (Easton Z-Air) and back a couple times with no problems and I have also used the method to mount other rigid chassis like TUUK Rockers, Sure-Grips, Red Star E-Frames, Labeda hi/lo's and Sherwood E-Frames. Give it a try. Also I have been filling the existing boot sole holes with 2 part epoxy and then re-drilling. This technique really works great.

Rick Henry

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Thanks for the advise. What benefit do you get from using the epoxy? Just filling in holes, or does it actually serve a functional purpose?

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I don't honestly know if the epoxy makes the sole any more rigid or not but when you drill new holes for a new frame its nice to have the old holes filled if for no other reason it seems to keep the T-nuts sitting in a true or flat position and not let them pull to the front or back at the edge of an old hole. I didn't fill the holes on the first couple of pairs of skates I converted and they have held up fine but when I read that Keith was using the technique I started using it. I figured it was a simple thing and if it helps to make the sole more rigid for a new mount it was worth doing. I have used 2 part clear epoxy, which dries kind of yellowish and I have used 2 part JB Weld epoxy which dries black or dark grey. The JB Weld looks good on a skate with a black sole. The epoxy is around $5 and you could probably do 100 pairs of skates so its a pretty good bargain. Also I have started buying the bolts and T-nuts in bulk/boxes with like 100 of each in each box. I bought them at a local fastener store that sells just about anything in a fastener( bolt, screw or rivet ) you could ever need. The cost at bulk is a big savings because it was costing me like $10-$15 for the hardware for one pair of skates at a local hardware store and sometimes the sizes we use are hard to find in my area. The cutter I bought to cut the bolts cost less than $10 at the hardware store. The big key is measuring and marking the sole of the boot. I use Keiths method, which is posted on the Sprung web page. Measure accross the toe and find the center at the toe. Measure at the heel and find the center. Draw a line down the bottom of the center of the sole. Measure the boot length down the bottom of the sole and mark it at the center of the boot (from toe to heel). Then measure back 1/4 inch from the center and mark that area. That is the location where the center of the chassis should line up with the chassis centered along the line drawn down the center of the boot. Believe me the mounts I have paid for were NOT that accurate. Not to sound like a horses .......but I do a better job than they did for me.

Good Luck

Rick Henry

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I skated for the first time today in my new A8 Sprung setup with them mounted on a new pair of 7K ice boots. Initial thoughts.....the pitch of the skates is perfect. Feels almost identical to my 7K ice pitch, and much more neutral coming out of my Code 1's. Early in the skate I really noticed the increase in maneuverability over my Hum'er chassis, the additional grip, and overall just incredible stability. The speed of a straight 80mm setup is fantastic, without the limited cutting ability of a fixed 80mm Hum'er chassis. Unfortunately for me, after about an hour I wore a couple of holes in my heels due to the new 7K's and my abilities to take advantage and really push my new Sprungs were highly limited as my feet began to kill me. But I toughed it out for another 2 hours while limping around the place. My train of though.....I hopefully softened up the boots today enough that for my next game they will be butter. I had the same scenario on my 7K's the first time that I stepped out on the ice with them....and by my 2nd and 3rd outings on them....they were perfect.

So for me....I am sold on the Sprung concept. They simply feel fantastic. Hopefully in my next skate I'll be able to truly take advantage of their abilities for the duration of my time on the rink.

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I just tried Spungs today for the first time and they were fantastic. Joe over at Skate San Diego let me have the rink to myself, and I had a blast. I only skated for about 10 min but I am sold. My Tour boots are shoot so I have to look for a new pair of boots, so if anyone out there knows any place online that just sells boot's please let me know. Keith great product I think everyone should take a serious look at them .

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keith, will it be possible to put the medium A 80 rocker arms on the current A6 frame?

If you look at the tiny space between the 2nd and 3rd wheels on the A6, you'll notice that the two inside wheels would overlap each other.

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keith ,anyway you could get those pics i sent you on the mod?

Today, along with some others. Yesterday I skated on the first pair of Torspos with Sprungs. :) :) :)

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I'm working on your pics, Rob.

Here's the first of the Torspos. They're size 10's, and when I tried them on out of the box with the ice holders still on, they were wide enough, but too short. When I stood up both left and right big toes were up against the cap. Yipes and ouch. But when I talked to Butch Satzinger at Torspo, he said after baking at 170 for about 7.5 minutes in the skate oven and after fitting and sitting, my heels would settle in and they would fit perfectly. Triple Bingo.

They look small outside, but inside they are the same size as my size 10 Vapors. That is, after I baked them in my oven, trying to approximate the real thing with blind best wishes. After baking and sitting, I did the first house skate and they already felt like my boots made for my feet. When I got to the rink, I was sort of thinking about my toes, really hoping they wouldn't work forward and kill me. But no. After 30 seconds I forgot about it and skated. It took about 10 minutes for the frames and boots and mounts to settle in, and then they were the best boot I've ever been in. No break in at all unless you count the 10 minutes.

They are totally rigid on the outside and my foot shape on the inside, with plenty of forward flex and invisible ankles. They do not torque at all and they make the frames do all the work. I skated for about two hours and there wasn't a single spot on either foot that did not feel as if I'd spent the last two hours in Vans. They fit perfect and skate better than anything I've ever been on or in.

As for construction, they are excelent. Very high quality, like Eastons. The eyelets are surrounded by strong flexible material that folds over your foot and remembers where it's supposed to go when you take them off and put them on. This same material tightens down on the laces, holding them between the lacing material and the tongue, so the laces stay tighter. Very little lace slip from one eyelet level to another.

This is the kind of product test we like. Make them and see if they sell. We'll have limited sizes and styles on the site shortly. All 8's, 9's and 10's right now. We're still working out the pricing, but they'll be totally competitive with everyone else.

TorspoA8.jpgTorspoA8Rink.jpg

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These had Chrome. Some have clear, some white, total mix. I haven't had time to even inventory them yet.

I skated on them again today for two straight hours of pickup. No problems, broken in and painless. The pitch is excellent and they feel neutral all the time. Could not feel puck shots at all. They are fast! They are mine :)

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Got my skates back from Keith today :D I put them on and stood in my bathroom. I could definitely feel the rocker a bit. I'm going to skate on them sunday and post my reactions. Still trying to decide what color to dye the rocker arms. Maybe the front and rear arm red? Or the front and rear black with the inner ones red?

he9500sprungleftinside.jpg

he9500sprungleft.jpg

They are a little wider than i imagined from looking at pictures. I felt much more confident in their durability after looking at them from the rear. Also the logo doesn't seem to photograph very accurately. It looks pretty cool in person.

he9500sprungrear.jpghe9500sprungrearclose.jpg

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