RBK SICKICK

[tburk32 0]

alright i just bought 2 rbk sickicks from a local AHL hockey team, $25 a piece and the blades are both broke, i have been reading all the different ways to put a tapered blade into it and every, so my question is... since its prostock does it make a difference on how its fused? im trying to lose as little shaft as possible, so what is the technique for hollowing out the rest of the tenon??? i know its very few chances that you can heat and pull it out so i dont know if its worth trying it. I just had a easton sicore changed the other day at a LHS and all they did was keep cutting and cutting until it was hollow and i kinda lost a lot of shaft, now there is a HUGE butt end it it. any information would be greatly appreciated cause id love to have two tapered shafts that are as nice as possible.

thanks in advance

travis

[whbd18 0]

I had to cut about 3/4" above the blade tenon to get a Synergy II blade in it.

[DamnLocust 0]

One idea to make up for lost length would be to use a Warrior dolomite 2 blade, as it's got a longer hosel than most tapered blades. If you can find an old T-flex blade (I think Cyclonetaylor was blowing them out, don't know if they have any more) It's got an even longer hosel.

[tburk32 0]

i cut pretty much off and its still not fitting, my dads kinda getting frustrated because he said it was a waste of 50 dollars, cause i bought two of them. is the stick a true ops??? it was hollow all the way down the shaft, anyways did you have to file the shaft or blade or anything to get it in????

[Rustpot 1]

I lost a good four inches on the Synergy SL shaft i converted. The guy at the LHS that did the cut started at the fuse point and kept cutting 1/4 inch (or less) chunks off after pulling the foam out with pliers

[Chadd 916]

Should have just asked for full sticks, Beaker will sell them.

[tburk32 0]

so i found out the 7v is just like the v130. has anyone had luck with making a shaft out of one??? i heard it might be a little helpless. this really sucks cause i dont want to lose the flex by flipping it.

[SickLife 2]

One idea to make up for lost length would be to use a Warrior dolomite 2 blade, as it's got a longer hosel than most tapered blades. If you can find an old T-flex blade (I think Cyclonetaylor was blowing them out, don't know if they have any more) It's got an even longer hosel.

i got a pro stock dolo the other day i'm trying to make into a shaft & puyt a dolo blade in. i'm having a helluva time getting it to fit though. think i should just cut further down the shaft? it seems there like...a ridge in the middle where it concaves in that i really can't file down enough.

[DamnLocust 0]

ridge eh? kinda sounds like a novius shaft with the boron spine or whatever. Does it run the full length of the shaft? If not, it may just be some epoxy that drizzled down the shaft after the blade was put in. if you secure the shaft with a vise you MAY be able to get at it with a dremel sanding wheel, but you have to be careful. If it does in fact run the whole length of the shaft you may have no other choice.

[saba 0]

To get a prostock V130 I was given by A Roy i had to chisel the boron spine out to get it to take a tapered blades. Was a pain and I had to shave a touch off of the tapered blade I was inserting, but it was possible and it served as an awesome shaft, so much so I wish I had never traded it...so keep at it

[SickLife 2]

ridge eh? kinda sounds like a novius shaft with the boron spine or whatever. Does it run the full length of the shaft? If not, it may just be some epoxy that drizzled down the shaft after the blade was put in. if you secure the shaft with a vise you MAY be able to get at it with a dremel sanding wheel, but you have to be careful. If it does in fact run the whole length of the shaft you may have no other choice.

maybe ridge was the wrong word. i mean, it like, concave's in. the way the shaft itself goes in in the center to conform to a hand. like. on my dolo shaft i can stick my pinky in up to my knuckle. on this i can barely get in because of it.

[DamnLocust 0]

the only things I could think of would be to either chisel into the blade tenon a bit, as saba did on his v130 shaft or overheat the shaft a bit on that side so that it can kind of stretch out. This will probably weaken the shaft though. If cutting it up higher will reduce the amount of concavity, it may be the only choice, but if it's still concave higher up, you'll run into the same problem, or the problem of loose blades from the corners on the concave side.

edit: If you do decide to get it good and heated, I wouldn't recommend using a torch or any open flame, I'd just heat the living crap out of it with a heat gun. torches can scorch and damage a shaft very quickly.

[Rustpot 1]

Maybe take a pic of then end of the shaft? That might still be part of the blade in there

[tburk32 0]

i actually got my tapered blade in, all i had to do was sand the blade down a little bit, im hoping it doesn't reduce the strength of the tenon that much. any opinion on how much durability will be decreased with sanding the tenon??

[echi24 1]

SickLife - i had the same problem trying to convert my true1. it still sits in my garage, somehow i actually lost space when i cut higher up from the fuse point because the shaft was convex on the inside.

[boomer 0]

i got a pro stock dolo the other day i'm trying to make into a shaft & puyt a dolo blade in. i'm having a helluva time getting it to fit though. think i should just cut further down the shaft? it seems there like...a ridge in the middle where it concaves in that i really can't file down enough.

i just cut my prostock dolomite. and it wouldnt fit a tapered blade, becuase there was a ridge like thing in it, so i just heated it up and stuck a screwdriver in it and pried it out, and now it fits tapered blades.. hope this helps

[trevor13478 1]

that looks like the same thing that is in my macdaddy. i broke the blade off that and then i cut it but i have that same ridge problem so ive just left it alone, ive been contemplating flipping it for a standard blade but maybe ill try this first.

[PChockey05 0]

have u tried a int. tapered blade. Just wondering because when I got my XXX lite converted they said that the way they shape the shaft is put a "ballon" in it and blow it up to shape it so the edges were a bit to rounded to put a senior blade in it. They tried an intermediate blade in it and it worked like a charm.

[trevor13478 1]

yeah i tried that once but it still didnt seem to fit quite right. the hosel was the right length but not the right length so i didnt get the desired feel from it. this was on a synergy sl though, probably different shaft shape than the XXX lite.

[pavelbure24 0]

SickLife - i had the same problem trying to convert my true1. it still sits in my garage, somehow i actually lost space when i cut higher up from the fuse point because the shaft was convex on the inside.

Isn't the true1 a true one piece and not a fused ops? Like the busch sticks, only different?

[SickLife 2]

i just cut my prostock dolomite. and it wouldnt fit a tapered blade, becuase there was a ridge like thing in it, so i just heated it up and stuck a screwdriver in it and pried it out, and now it fits tapered blades.. hope this helps

oh yeah. i heated it & some stuff started falling to the center. so i pryed it out. still have a lot to get though. one side doesn't want to come, even when heated.

thanks.

my only fear is once i shove a blade in, there's no way its coming back out to go in with glue, haha.

[A2rhino 63]

Did a search on the 2007 RBK 7K Sickick stick and read this thread. But no-one has mentioned the feel,quality and durability of this stick. I saw one for the first time today at MLHS and it felt pretty cool. I like that they kept the snake texture but also added the grip feel to the shaft. Any comments on the performance of this stick?

[TBLfan 25]

snake texture? is that the regular grip version? or a different type of grip version?

So far the only one I've seen was without grip. It was one of the sickick demos they sent the lightning. I know the associate coach's son who had one and he let me mess around with it. It felt really smooth, almost like an aluminum shaft. It was extremely balanced, felt heavier than a XXXlite but the balance more than made up for it. He said that he loved the stick. It lasted quite a few games/practices and took quite a beating before breaking.

[A2rhino 63]

It seemed like a really good stick from the feel. Yes it has the textured snake grip like the 5K but over that it has the traditional CCM grip feel. It's not up the entire shaft though. Only the middle lower part of the shaft. I tryed it out at MLHS, Behiind the mask in AZ.

RBK web page says; PROFEEL grip coating with ribbed texture for added control

[odp 0]

Yeah, it seemed to me that it had both a texture and a coating grip. Definately want to try one or one of the shafts when they're not hideously expensive. They retailed for $199 CAD, so same as they've marked down the 10.0's now.