Is there a power tool to accomplish this job?

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

Ive found the perfect wooden blade for outdoor rinks and I love the curve but its a standard blade. I use a tapered shaft, which is perfect for me but its a real pain sanding the blades down with a hand sander and removing the glue. Is there a power tool that could shave down the hossel with a couple passes and save me a lot of time?

Any ideas?

[JR Boucicaut 3810]

Bench grinder

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

Well I was looking for something that would shave it equally on all sides to tapered measurements. Hand sander is getting it done but it takes a while to do it and its never equal on all sides.

Any idea what the blade makers actually use to shave the blades?

[JR Boucicaut 3810]

Belt sander.

Trace the dims on the edge of the tenon and go to town on it.

It's not hard - I've done it plenty of times.

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

Belt sander.

Trace the dims on the edge of the tenon and go to town on it.

It's not hard - I've done it plenty of times.

B) You're my hero, as usual.

[LegoDoom 0]

Belt sander.

Trace the dims on the edge of the tenon and go to town on it.

It's not hard - I've done it plenty of times.

I'm guessing you used a fixed belt sander. I'd assume it'd be a pain to take the sander to the blade (as opposed to the other way around).

[jmiro 55]

actually you could probably use the following. A router table, a jigsaw (blade would need to be in a vice), block plane, power hand planer, a dremel with a saw attachment or sanding disks (blade would need to be in a vice), if you were crazy you might be able to do it on a power miter (wouldnt recomend)

[Wolfpack_1986 154]

table saw, and cut a dado on both sides of the hosel...

http://woodworking.about.com/od/joinery/p/dado.htm

however, since the blade will curve in one way, it wont lie flat... so a jig would be needed... and a jig would be wise since it's a small piece of wood, words of wisdom coming from someone who mangled their fingers on a table saw... dont he-man it and try to hold it. it can and will torque around.

or a radial arm saw would do the trick. same idea, except the saw moves instead of wood... easier than a table saw and mitre saw.

but both of those are expensive if you dont have them and dangerous if you dont know what you're doing.

[JR Boucicaut 3810]

Belt sander.

Trace the dims on the edge of the tenon and go to town on it.

It's not hard - I've done it plenty of times.

I'm guessing you used a fixed belt sander. I'd assume it'd be a pain to take the sander to the blade (as opposed to the other way around).

Yep.

[Gaborik41 0]

don't try it on a standard carbon blade. i did and it broke on the firstshot. tried to put a focusflex in a L2 shaft. did not work at all.

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

Its just for wood blades. I love Montreal wood blades and they hold up amazingly long on smooth concrete but they only come standard. I was thinking about contact Montreal to just order a batch of blades but im not sure if they would do it or not.

[Cobra2717 0]

Belt sander.

Trace the dims on the edge of the tenon and go to town on it.

It's not hard - I've done it plenty of times.

Same thing i do. I dont even buy tapered wood blades anymore. I just make my own.

[chippa13 1844]

Here's a crazy thought, find a company that makes custom woodies and have them made for you.

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

Here's a crazy thought, find a company that makes custom woodies and have them made for you.

Heres a crazy thought, ive yet to find one company that even compares to Montreal Woodies in terms of quality and durability on a concrete. Why pay a company $5-$10 extra a blade just to get a "custom" taper. I'll try the belt sander and see how that works.

Thanks

[s Greens 0]

quick question: are you just shaving the hosel of a standard blade to make it fit into the tapered shaft? or are you making a standard into a short-hoselled (much like a synergy II wood blade) to fit into the tapered shaft?

i ask this just because if i shave just the hosel to fit into my dolomite shafts, the stick will be too tall and ill be forced to cut the shaft (making it more stiff of course)

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

quick question: are you just shaving the hosel of a standard blade to make it fit into the tapered shaft? or are you making a standard into a short-hoselled (much like a synergy II wood blade) to fit into the tapered shaft?

i ask this just because if i shave just the hosel to fit into my dolomite shafts, the stick will be too tall and ill be forced to cut the shaft (making it more stiff of course)

I never cut the hosel of the blade and I use a Dolomite. I used a ridiculously short stick for a long time, 52 inches with the blade and now im forcing myself to use a longer stick and its definitally helping my shot and stick handling.

[s Greens 0]

would it be possible tho to shave a standard blade into a short hosel blade to fit ?

[JR Boucicaut 3810]

Yes, I've done it

[Datsyukiandeek 0]

Just be aware, when doing this that the hosel gets effected sometimes. Try not to take off too much or it'll break pretty easily. I got three weeks out of my last blade before the blade broke off at the bosel and I had to drill into it to pull it out. Not really a big deal, only take off what you need to.

[fatwabbit 93]

tried it before in order to get a senior blade into an intermediate synergy.

its a pain, but works out great.

[Cobra2717 0]

Like i said, i dont even buy wood tapered blades anymore, i just make standard blades into tapered ones. And if you have a bench or belt sander, its a cake walk after you do a couple. I have yet to have a problem with them breaking either, and i have been doing this for about a year or so.

[D aka speck 0]

Power tools rule #1 - It's hard to hold a stick with no fingers. I think the bench sander or grinder are the best ideas personally.