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JR Boucicaut

Fun with crossgrinding wheels

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Took an Oakley Straight cut visor and decided to get creative...

Made it the same height as a straight small...

half1.jpg

Then took it further...

half2.jpg

Done by hand on the crossgrinder wheel. Notches were done by cutting paper in the shape I wanted, then Sharpie'd the line, and ground it down.

Filed off the edges at the end, will probably take it down some more. Still a little interference with the earloop.

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Very Nice! How long did that take to do?

I think about 45 min to an hour of grindage.

I matched both shields and took an X-Acto knife and traced it onto the Straight.

Then the notch I drew out...

I'll probably give it a bit more shape...

I was caked in white powder. The key is to really bevel the edges, because it can be a safety hazard if the edges are sharp.

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nice use of company time! what would your boy markie mark say about this

If he ever stopped by...

I cleaned today. Don't chirp. There's a lot of glass windows at Novi.

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I used a Dremel to cut down my old Itech straight. I didn't think to use the crossgrind until it came time to smooth out the edges.

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I did the same thing (Minus the trimming on the sides) to an old Itech RBE visor a couple years back.. made it straight cut, turned out pretty damn good, I'd actually use it if it weren't so beat up. I might now do that notch idea and give it a whirl.

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I used a Dremel to cut down my old Itech straight. I didn't think to use the crossgrind until it came time to smooth out the edges.

And the thng is, it was done on that small old-school Blackstone crossie...which was perfect for detail since it's only about 3/4" thick.

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looks good, but be careful grinding anything other than steel on a grinding wheel. I've seen wheels explode because the poors get clogged and it throws them out of balance. Especially non-ferrous metals, they are the worst. Plastics/Lexans and acrylics are not as bad. It would be safer to use a belt sander then a grinding wheel.

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Belt sander is too hard to work around, you can't get into curves easily and sanding a long flat surface will chatter the paper and cause tears really easily.

Steel will fill the porous wheels just as easily, but it can be dressed away. You're only really running into trouble if you let the aluminum (or what have you) start to melt from the friction. As long as you're mindful of the time you're got wheel contact per small area and quench often, you can grind and dress anything with a good multi-purpose wheel.

Sand paper runs into trouble really quickly with anything harder than aluminum, and Lexan tends to wear the paper unusually fast from what I've done with it.

Cutting wheels or bandsaws with a nice compact grinding wheel are super nice for plastics.

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I used a Dremel to cut down my old Itech straight. I didn't think to use the crossgrind until it came time to smooth out the edges.

And the thng is, it was done on that small old-school Blackstone crossie...which was perfect for detail since it's only about 3/4" thick.

My father in law gave me an old bench grinder a couple months ago. If I can't score a straight small I may have to modify an Itech.

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the only fun i had was after i changed the wheel and it exploded, launching the parts into the wall about ten feet behind me, and missing me by about 4 inches

I've actually had a pair of safety glasses serve their purpose. I had a dremel disc explode and instead of just falling apart and flying a foot or two, one chunk actually hit my face and scored the lens pretty badly.

Always gotta make sure to keep the shield down for the first 30 seconds with your hand on the kill switch when you're running a new wheel for the first time.

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Belt sander is too hard to work around, you can't get into curves easily and sanding a long flat surface will chatter the paper and cause tears really easily.

Steel will fill the porous wheels just as easily, but it can be dressed away. You're only really running into trouble if you let the aluminum (or what have you) start to melt from the friction. As long as you're mindful of the time you're got wheel contact per small area and quench often, you can grind and dress anything with a good multi-purpose wheel.

Sand paper runs into trouble really quickly with anything harder than aluminum, and Lexan tends to wear the paper unusually fast from what I've done with it.

Cutting wheels or bandsaws with a nice compact grinding wheel are super nice for plastics.

If you get sheets of lexan/acrylic cut they use a fine tooth circular blade, but that would be to difficult to use on a shiels. If the lexan is wearing down the sandpaper it is because you are using the wrong type of paper. Use one designed for glass, they will last awhile. Our shop has a vertical wet/dry belt sander that makes short work of plastics and aluminum. Whatever you use be careful. I've seen grinding wheels and masonary blades come apart and injure people pretty bad.

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you have some very interesting hobbies. haha

seriously, nothing beats the shank.

haha as a very long time reader, id have to agree, the shank was a think of beauty JR :P

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