stick blade on the ice

[Chanimal 0]

Someone made some comments about the Sakic technique vs. the Kovalev technique in shooting the puck. I have seen the Warrior videos on Kovy, but is there a Sakic video? I am trying to understand the difference in their respective techniques, and how each of them are more suited to the rockered blade vs. the flat blade respectively.

[Jarick 5]

Okay, I've got a question on this Sakic versus Kovalev technique.

Whenever I go to work on my shot at a local shooting range, I try and do the Kovalev, bring the puck from behind, get a good amount of flex, and snap towards the target. I find it difficult to shoot accurately using this method, although I get more power. I noticed though that when I'm moving and shoot, I snap with the puck closer to my front foot, and the shots are a lot more accurate, although with less power. So I guess I shoot closer to the Sakic rather than Kovalev.

Is this necessarily a bad thing or good thing?

The other question I had, is it proper technique to keep the blade flat on the ice when shooting? I noticed my wrist shots fly flatter and have more velocity when I keep the puck far away from me (almost to the point where it's uncomfortable) rather than closer to my body so the blade is flat on the ice. I had just shortened my stick, so maybe my top hand is too far away from my body? Or should I try a higher lie?

[Chadd 916]

Okay, I've got a question on this Sakic versus Kovalev technique.

Whenever I go to work on my shot at a local shooting range, I try and do the Kovalev, bring the puck from behind, get a good amount of flex, and snap towards the target. I find it difficult to shoot accurately using this method, although I get more power. I noticed though that when I'm moving and shoot, I snap with the puck closer to my front foot, and the shots are a lot more accurate, although with less power. So I guess I shoot closer to the Sakic rather than Kovalev.

Is this necessarily a bad thing or good thing?

The other question I had, is it proper technique to keep the blade flat on the ice when shooting? I noticed my wrist shots fly flatter and have more velocity when I keep the puck far away from me (almost to the point where it's uncomfortable) rather than closer to my body so the blade is flat on the ice. I had just shortened my stick, so maybe my top hand is too far away from my body? Or should I try a higher lie?

It's neither bad or good, but it is something that should be considered when shooting. If you're in on a breakaway, you want to make sure it's an accurate shot. If you are shooting from out near the top of the circles, you're going to need all the power you can get. Perhaps the issue with the Kovy style is with getting your stick to flex consistently. It's hard to put the same amount of force into every shot and that's exactly what you have to do in order to get the same results.

As for the stick, the longer arc (within reason) will generate more power. If you're stick is getting short, a higher lie may work for you. What are you using now?

[Jarick 5]

I'm using a stick between my chin and mouth on skates with a 5 lie blade.

Last night I was messing around with shooting at 90 degrees from the target instead of 45 degrees or facing the target, and magically shot was fine again and I was rolling the blade over exactly like I wanted. Puck flew nice and flat with good velocity and accuracy. Went back to shooting open and my wrists didn't naturally roll over as much, it was slightly closed, like this:

Either way, the shot still came off with decent velocity and accuracy. So like you said, maybe it's just different types of shots for different situations. When I'm down by the goal, I don't really need to rip a shot, just hit the corner.

But my main problem was not rolling my wrists over on a wrist shot, and for some odd reason I had zero problems doing that last night, so I'll keep an eye on it.

[lotus 2]

So would it be normal that I get uneven wear at the heel of a rockered blade, than of a blade with the same lie, less rockered?

[gxc999 7]

So would it be normal that I get uneven wear at the heel of a rockered blade, than of a blade with the same lie, less rockered?

I have exactly the same issue! I picked up some pro stock synergy elite's and the lie appears to be 5 or 5.5 and match the curve of my pm9 but seems to have much more heel and much less toe on the ice when holding both sticks (retail pm9 and this one) at the same length. However, when I cup the blade of the pro stock, it all gets down on the surface very quickly, so is that curve just more rockered? BTW, I noticed I have to put more drag in my shot using the pro stock stick than the retail PM9. I'm slightly confused.

[Chadd 916]

So would it be normal that I get uneven wear at the heel of a rockered blade, than of a blade with the same lie, less rockered?

I have exactly the same issue! I picked up some pro stock synergy elite's and the lie appears to be 5 or 5.5 and match the curve of my pm9 but seems to have much more heel and much less toe on the ice when holding both sticks (retail pm9 and this one) at the same length. However, when I cup the blade of the pro stock, it all gets down on the surface very quickly, so is that curve just more rockered? I'm kind of confused.

Not correct, but not entirely uncommon either. Middle of the blade should be flat on the ice, but most people seem to put the heel down out of habit. Either you're changing your hand position to put the heel on the ice or the blades are not the same lie as what you used before that had the flatter bottom.

[gxc999 7]

.

Bottom is the original Shanny, the mid one is after I shaved it, the top one is actual Kovy pro blade. Now Kovy is slightly higher lie maybe 5.2 mine are about 5.0 to 4.9

Even though they list Shanny as 6.0 lie to me it feels lower maybe 5.5 or so, that’s' why you need to shave the heel to lower the lie.

I'm tempted to buy Z-carbon Shanny blades and shave them, but I'm afraid the graphite will fall out form the bottom and it’s a waste of time and money.

Cheers

I'm gonna post a couple of pics later. What's the most effective way to shave a heel besides sandpaper?

[Jarick 5]

For wood blades? If you have a cordless drill, you can get a sanding drum for $10. Clamp the blade with a bench vise and go to town.

I would highly NOT recommend sanding a wood blade that has a fiberglass wrap.

[gxc999 7]

For wood blades? If you have a cordless drill, you can get a sanding drum for $10. Clamp the blade with a bench vise and go to town.

I would highly NOT recommend sanding a wood blade that has a fiberglass wrap.

I was thinking of trying it on my old ccm vector (which does have f/g) but yeah, you can't do anything to composites.

[Chadd 916]

For wood blades? If you have a cordless drill, you can get a sanding drum for $10. Clamp the blade with a bench vise and go to town.

I would highly NOT recommend sanding a wood blade that has a fiberglass wrap.

Spray on truck liner seems to help protect wood blades. I got some for a project that didn't work out and gave it to one of the guys on my team for his blades and he loves the added durability. Something like this:

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckbed.html

[gxc999 7]

Here are some pictures. I cannot definitely say if this is 5.5 or 6 lie. I also cannot determine which curve this is. I was told it was a Sakic before I got it but it seems like a pm9-sakic hybrid.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Do a birds eye view of the blade right side up. That doesn't help much.

[Chadd 916]

Do a birds eye view of the blade right side up. That doesn't help much.

Actually, the second pic is the best for checking the curve location, it just sucks for the loft. It looks like a pretty standard, smaller mid curve.

[kovalchuk71 212]

The tape was kind of throwing me off.

[gxc999 7]

Lol, I was expecting a Sakic and got this. I don't know exactly what to equate this to. It's not a PM9,not a Sakic, and certainly not a heel curve. It looks almost like mid-toe curve and purely opens the toe. Chadd, do you think 5.5 or 6 lie? I actually think it's a 6 so I took the wood extension out to artificially alter the functional lie.

[Chadd 916]

No way to tell the lie without something to compare it. The bottom view shows that it starts to curve in the middle.

[Jarick 5]

Isn't that similar to the Sakic pro? I seem to remember that was pretty straight.

[Chadd 916]

Isn't that similar to the Sakic pro? I seem to remember that was pretty straight.

It does look a lot like the original sakic curve on the original Easton ultra graphite blades. Not sure if that was the kariya pro or not, that was along time ago.

[gxc999 7]

The first day I got it, getting the puck up was really difficult. It calls for a little alteration of technique. But I've been saying I want a straighter pattern anyway!

[malcb33 99]

I have some RH pro stock Easton blades marked "Kayria", that I love. They are very similar if not the same as the picture above. Mine are a 5 or 4.75 lie and quite flat. I'd kill for a few more of those blades!

[Jarick 5]

With those kinds of curves, I tend to like to nestle the puck in the curve area and snap it towards the target. With more curve, I put more spin on the puck.

[raygunpk 0]

That curve is beautiful.

[gxc999 7]

With those kinds of curves, I tend to like to nestle the puck in the curve area and snap it towards the target. With more curve, I put more spin on the puck.

I've never tried that before but I will tomorrow, thanks!

[sfael 0]

Thats a lovely curve. Who's curve is it or is it just blank?