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tsanga

Broken shaft + 12" wood extension

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Do you think I could try to get every last bit of hockey out of a couple broken shafts, but sticking in 12" extensions to make up the length?

I could see how the shortened shafts would be stiffer, but then again, adding another 10-12" of wood at the top increases the leverage again, so not sure if the stiffness effect ends up being a wash.

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I'm not positive here.... but I think with an insert that long, the weak point will be at the shaft/wood insert section. (where the two meet)

It may have some effect on shots, but I'm pretty sure some pro's use some long inserts. Give it a try, you don't have much to lose

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yes try it and report back to MSH - I would like to see how your experience turns out. I have put large plugs in before - but never 12". Maybe good for a hard wrist shots...but slapper may break at upper insertion point near top hand, not sure.

Pros - You save money, get more use out of shaft.

Cons - You add weight to overall stick, and a little top heavy.

I just "got lucky" last night - a freind from my team broke his Green

Easton Synergy OPS and told me I could have it, so I can make it a two peice.

I am going to be very careful, in cutting so I don't have to put too big of plug in it, if at all.

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I think that would throw the balance and kick point off. How long are the shafts without the extensions?

the balance yes, but how would it throw the kickpoint off?

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^^^ Because the shaft itself is becoming shorter. Regardless of the plug or not, the shaft is mostly what is flexing; as some said it might break where the plug meets, and a normal length end would not do that because the shaft would be flexing properly. So you might regain some of the leverage but the shaft will never kick the same and cause the kick point to be higher. I am speaking in relation to the shaft length (top to bottom), while the kick point might not physically move, it does in relation from its position in relation to the end of the shaft (not including the plug). I would think this is even more so the case if this is a OPS that was cut.

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yea there is so much interesting "physics" and "dynamics" going on here that it would make a PhD in Physics salivate. LOL

One being the 12" "arm length" of the plug causing "new" forces at the insertion point. Where before when it was a "one peice" these forces would "bend" the stick gradually, now the forces are causing pressure points at the insertion point - and some of that force maybe 30% is dissapated, in wrong directions, where the other percentage 70% would be used to help the shot, where before you had a 100% energy transfer. It all depends where your "top hand" is in relation to the plug.

I guess some questions to ask would be

Orignally what part of the shaft top or bottom did you "broken shafts" occur at? I think we are all assuming the bottom.

Also I don't quite understand "kickpoint" from a manufactures standpoint - I mean lets say you have a 10 foot long stick, and the "kickpoint" is at the 8 foot mark ( 80% ) - then lets say you cut 5 feet off the stick. Is then the kickpoint at the 4 foot mark ( 80%) - Or have you cut the "kickpoint" out?

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Also I don't quite understand "kickpoint" from a manufactures standpoint - I mean lets say you have a 10 foot long stick, and the "kickpoint" is at the 8 foot mark ( 80% ) - then lets say you cut 5 feet off the stick. Is then the kickpoint at the 4 foot mark ( 80%) - Or have you cut the "kickpoint" out?

I think that would depend on if they were advertising a "low kick point" or "high kick point." If the kick point is high, then you would have cut it out. If it were a low kick point and you cut it the shaft 5', the kick point should still be at the 2' (20% of 10') mark, but it would now be at 60% (3'/5') rather than 80% (8'/10').

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if the stick isn't going to be used in serious competition then you really have nothing to lose, save some money and just throw that plug in there

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A 12" extension isn't going to hold up well on slappers. Wood plugs don't have reinforcement like you would find on a full length wood stick. Given the amount of force being applied and the fact that the part of the plug that was inserted has to be smaller than the shaft diameter, you're likely to have a failure at that point.

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Also I don't quite understand "kickpoint" from a manufactures standpoint - I mean lets say you have a 10 foot long stick, and the "kickpoint" is at the 8 foot mark ( 80% ) - then lets say you cut 5 feet off the stick. Is then the kickpoint at the 4 foot mark ( 80%) - Or have you cut the "kickpoint" out?

I think that would depend on if they were advertising a "low kick point" or "high kick point." If the kick point is high, then you would have cut it out. If it were a low kick point and you cut it the shaft 5', the kick point should still be at the 2' (20% of 10') mark, but it would now be at 60% (3'/5') rather than 80% (8'/10').

wholly kickpoint confusion batman!!! In your example above are you cutting from the blade end? If so then high kickpoint means its near the blade?, and low kickpoint means its nearer the shaft? - And lets assume we are cutting from the blade up...I am confused now because in the case that we cut the kickpoint out - there must be a "new" kickpoint somewhere? Otherwise it would not flex. I always thought the manufactures don't really design a kickpoint in and of itself, but make the shaft a little bit thinner gradually from the middle to the blade end, so it has a "lower" pickpoint, then just a shaft with the same thickness. But there is no "kickpoint" point, until a tester put it in the test machine. Help?

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Kickpoint will not change if you cut from the butt end. Balance point and overall flex will. It isn't rocket surgery guys.

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Kickpoint will not change if you cut from the butt end. Balance point and overall flex will. It isn't rocket surgery guys.

That is what I thought... B)

to the OP: Let us know how it goes

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htrh.jpg

I agree that the kick point doesn't physically move/change. However, in relation to the shaft and shaft length I believe it effectively changes...

Blueish portion is where the kick point is and the maroonish color is the rest of the shaft; this is using YouTuuk's example from above.

As mentioned, whether this is being cut from butt or blade end will have the most influence on the kick point. And to answer another question, if you were to cut the kick point out, the shaft would still flex and have a kick point, only it would happen at some other point where it was not originally designed to.

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^^^It's just going to snap like a twig. Like Chadd said, it's not reinforced like a real wood stick. It's just a piece of hardwood that is cut to fit into a stick. Wood sticks have all sorts of laminates to keep it in one piece.

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And to answer another question, if you were to cut the kick point out, the shaft would still flex and have a kick point, only it would happen at some other point where it was not originally designed to.

ok thats my theory even, if you did not cut the "kickpoint" out - the stick will flex at a point not originally designed, sometimes close to, sometimes far away from original kickpoint.

Example: Lets take my original example to the extreame, instead of cutting 5' off, lets cut 7'11", yet we are leaving the original kickpoint of 2' - Bottomline is that I doubt the kickpoint will be at 2' now, prolly more like 5 inch mark...What do you think, any cutting from any side will move kickpoint, just depends how much and if significant.

kick.jpg

Maybe it is "rocket science"? LOL

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For fuck's sake, we deal with reality and not asinine hypotheticals. There are no 8' sticks, and not a single one of us is going to use a stick that's 2' long. If you feel the need to make up situations like this, you really need to get out of the house a little more.

Once again, an engineered kickpoint doesn't move.

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