My custom stick fix

[hrbekroenick 0]

selleys, either the 2hour cure or the 5 min cure. I've done it before between games (2hour rest) with the 5 min cure. Was a real rush job, but it basically let my blades survive another few months of playing time.

Fatwabbit, would that work for a blade that is completely broken (2 pieces)? I sent you a pm and e-mail on shafts too, lmk what you want to do.

Enjoy the (non)vacation!

[D aka speck 0]

I've never tried it on a completely broken blade, only chipped.

I don't think it would hold together.

[Rustpot 1]

I wouldn't use them for game sticks. If I found a One90 or a Synergy at the rink that was a mid break and right handed, I would cut the tenon off a plug and have myself a stick that wouldn't see the ice again- probably just use it for stick handling or add to the collection.

It would probably be given to a friend that would SRS the thing and have a nice stick, or I might do that myself.

It really depends on where the break is, too. I would hate to have a seam right in the middle of the lower hand area of the stick, drive me nuts.

[hrbekroenick 0]

I've never tried it on a completely broken blade, only chipped.

I don't think it would hold together.

Yeah, I know. I have seen SRS do a blade repair on a completely broken stick. I just need to find out what kind of epoxy they used. I tried with a 2-part epoxy from Menards but it was tough to work with and didn't hold.

[Vulcan 0]

I just used some stuff from walmart that you have to mix together, there was a kind specifically for plastics and a general kind. I believe I used the plastic kind and it held together fine until I slammed the heel on the ground and the epoxy part just fell out. It will at least prevent it from getting worse IMO.

[Krev 86]

This would be an awesome senior project for high school seniors. I did something similar involving SRS.

[ramensandwich 1]

don't do anything to it. i too have a green ST grip, and it has several chunks knocked out of the heel, no durabilty problems on my end, its been going strong for almost 2 years.

[fatwabbit 93]

I've never tried it on a completely broken blade, only chipped.

I don't think it would hold together.

Yeah, I know. I have seen SRS do a blade repair on a completely broken stick. I just need to find out what kind of epoxy they used. I tried with a 2-part epoxy from Menards but it was tough to work with and didn't hold.

I dont think it would work on a busted shaft or blade. I've only tried it on chipped blades and shafts.

I've seen the videos on SRS, and I think they do add something else to the mix.

One thing you can try ... I did have a buddy of mine who was really into cars. He would get carbon fibre sheets (already cross hatched interlaced) and he would mould the sheet around whatever (sidemirror, gear shift knob), and layer it with epoxy. Its essentially the same as making a shaft (kinda) with a reinforcement (fibres) and matrix (epoxy). You could try the same, but without the slow heat curing, it may not hold.

I remember also talking to another company (greentweede) who deal with composites. I tried to get them to make me some samples of shafts, but they said that they couldnt do it unless there was a confirmed contract for it. At their prices, I would rather just buy from the LHS.

One thing to note that I've learnt from 3M.. the surface you want to 'glue' together with the epoxy needs to be rough and very clean of dirt/debris. The roughness increases the surface area and allows the liquid epoxy to 'grip' more, thus giving a better bond between the two materials (or in this case same material).any loose debris or dirt would not provide with good adhesion.

I still stick by 3M, there is a huge amount of stuff that they have that is only available to the commercial sector. You can find their 5kg double sided tape in special DIY stores... claims that a square inch of double sided tape can hold up something of 5kg.... but they have 50kg versions available for industrial use, and you need to get some special training to get the proper bonding. I've got some from my old job... and it works wonders around the house or car!

[fatwabbit 93]

forgot to add one thing... working in the mech eng lab in Uni allowed me to play around with different materials... I was also able to get some kevlar fibres and titanium powder that I was using for my final year project and used that on my sticks as well...

[YouTuuk 0]

I found this on YouTube first they make a shaft repair, then a blade repair on same video....Its interesting they don't use a "plug" at all but just a bunch of cloth graphite and some epoxy...Interesting....I wonder were we could pick up that cloth graphite at? Home Depot?

[fatwabbit 93]

I wrote something similar in another thread about the graphite sheets... you should be able to get them at those car shops that do custom work.

[greatsave31 0]

Nice job on the project... I would patent the idea

[fatwabbit 93]

added some info in anotehr thread...

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...showtopic=39645

[fatwabbit 93]

added some info in another thread

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...showtopic=39645

[fatwabbit 93]

ok... Chadd just locked the other thread. I thought I was doing the right thing... guess not.

anyway, I've cut and pasted what I wrote there to this topic.

I thought I'd start a new thread, seeing that two of them have this being discussed.

Some background... goes back to Uni days (not much $$$)

In Singapore, I play on pretty an abrasive surface, similar to painted concrete but not as rough as asphalt. Hockey blades last maybe four 2hr sessions before I deem them to be un-usable. Blades cost me $30-$40 for woodies, and you can never get the same curve. This was before big time internet shopping came about, so mainly I depended on my LHS to get blades. Tried many ways to get the job done, and found that epoxy worked very well. One tube of epoxy latest me about 4 hockey sessions, and cost about $5 a tube. The same blade would now be able to be used for anywhere between 6-9 months, and that included two tournaments during that time.

Ok, to the specifics. Here are some photos I took today on putting epoxy on the bottom edge of the blade to make it last longer. This would work for those who have gotten a curve they love, but want a different lie. Basically the epoxy becomes the sacrificial layer, and gets worn off instead of the blade itself. You can add some thread or fibres to give it a little more impact resitence, but the epoxy normally holds up pretty well. I've put links instead of the normal inserted photos for the benefit of those still on dialup.

Stuff I used, basically some epoxy and musking tape. I normally use Selley's epoxy, but Araldite works just as well. Stay away from the more expensive epoxy with metel already present in the mix, they dont work any better than the cheaper ones. Musking tape is the best as it does not leave any gluey residue like duct tape or celephane tape (Spelling). You can use a less wider tape, but this was what I had at my mom's place.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4445.jpg

After cleaning the surface, apply tape to one side of the blade, then do the same to the other side. This forms a 'channel' or 'mould' for the epoxy to set in.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4446.jpg

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4447.jpg

Mix the epoxy thorughly, in this case I used a 2 hour set epoxy so that I could do the photos. Mix it on some cardboard or something that has a nice smooth surface. Once mixed properly, pour it into the channel. It will be pretty thick like honey, so you have to be patient.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4449.jpg

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4450.jpg

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4461.jpg

Once you have put in the epoxy, clamp some harder card or plastic file to the blade. This will form to the blade shape, as the musking tape will start to sag a little from the epoxy weight. You dont have to use C-clamps like I've shown, a normal paper clip (like pic) should be enough. I'm doing this at my mom's place, so I dont have access to all my normal shite.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4462.jpg

Once done, clean up, and set the stick up in a way that the blade is in the air, and maybe resting on a chair with the butt end against a wall. you can try to adjust the lie of the blade yourself this way, so that the epoxy will set in that manner.

Sorry for being longwinded... just wanted to cover the specifics. If you've got any questions let me know either thru pm or the thread.

Hope this helps... may not be beneficial for those who have regualr access to LHS, but for me, this saved me a lot of money and I got to use the same curve and blade pattern for much much longer.

You can use epoxy to patch up the areas of the blade/shaft that have been chipped. It may/may not prolong the life, but it worked for me..

[Chadd 916]

Similar topics merged.

ok... Chadd just locked the other thread. I thought I was doing the right thing... guess not.

Complaining about it doesn't make it better.

[fatwabbit 93]

not complaining dude... appreciate the police-ing you are doing.

I'll stick to contributing to threads... rather than starting new ones.

[YouTuuk 0]

Great work Fatwabbit, I appretiate you hard work and effort in posting the pics and sharing your knowlege. The photo's show up on your original thread, but did not seem to transfer to this thread...anyway I do something similar, but I will have to start using your Seeleys epoxy - I have just used wood glue in the past - but I use wood blades too - and I let the glue run down filling all the cracks and crevisis of the stick.

Also just to add something... when using my clamps - My fav curve is the sherwood Coffee and I have a bunch of old ones around the house - So I cut the hosel off two of them and use them as the clamps. So I pour my glue then press the stick to be fixed together with 2 old sherwood blades with the same curve, then clamp those with the C-Clamps, this makes the stick "tight" like the original, so the mold comes out perfect, also use some old newspaper so the blades don't stick.

[chole 0]

Thanks for the idea, I am gonna try it out for a couple of sticks for the street.