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eml0130

graf G5 Ultra

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So I replaced the holders for my G5 Ultras today and when I was taking off the screws one sheared the head off of one. They must be Ti b/c they are soft as sh*t, it didn't take much torque at all to shear it off. So if you have these skates and you're doing work on the holders be gentle on the fasteners.

The real question I have is if I'm mounting TUUKs on my grafs should I use the graf screw style hardware or just go with classic rivets, or does it even matter...

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I doubt they're ti. Ti is actually not that weak. I have a goodly amount of ti fasteners on my mountain and road bikes including the brake caliper mounts and rotor mounts on the mtb. They're torqued down and have no issues whatsoever.

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I doubt they're ti. Ti is actually not that weak. I have a goodly amount of ti fasteners on my mountain and road bikes including the brake caliper mounts and rotor mounts on the mtb. They're torqued down and have no issues whatsoever.

That's what I thought too b/c I've have tons of bolts on my mtn bike that are Ti too but all I can find says they are Ti for the g5 ultras. The bolts are light as hell, the only other thing that light is aluminum and I can't imagine using an aluminum fastener on a skate...idk though

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When I had 705's w/ Custom+ they used a few existing holes w/ the Graf screws and some rivets. After reading some threads on here regarding the topic I've learned that they did that b/c in most cases only a handful of the holes will line up when going from the Cobra on a Graf to a Tuuk+ so they had to do the combination (if this is wrong someone please correct me, this is the best I remember and makes sense to me).

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When I had 705's w/ Custom+ they used a few existing holes w/ the Graf screws and some rivets. After reading some threads on here regarding the topic I've learned that they did that b/c in most cases only a handful of the holes will line up when going from the Cobra on a Graf to a Tuuk+ so they had to do the combination (if this is wrong someone please correct me, this is the best I remember and makes sense to me).

You are correct. Thats what I used to do.

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The new graf screws are aluminium and the suck something fierce. I replaced mine witht he standard black steel ones for the same reason. If you are mounting different holders on them then I would just use standard rivets because you are going to have to re-drill the holes anyways.

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I had the shop where I bought my Graf Ultra G3s put T-Blade holders on mine. They couldn't reuse all the old holes and had to make some new ones, but I still had them use Graf screws so I could change the holders out to the original Cobra's if/when I need to - kind of a just in case thing, haven't needed to yet and it's been a year already. I like the screws cause they make changes so much easier then rivets.

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If I were you I would think twice about drilling new holes in the boot when you can drill new holes in the holders and use the existing Graf screws. On Graf skates, I have replaced TBlades with Easton Razor holders and replaced NT 3000 with Easton holders and in each case I was able to drill new holes in the holder itself and reuse the Graf screws to secure holders. In both cases the holders are attached to the boot very firmly. Once you drill new holes and use rivets, you the cannot undue the damage to the boot foot bed, if they do not feel right/comfortable it too late. it will be very difficult to go back to the Graf screws to attach any holder.

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I consistently found that to be a problem with my G35's.

In addition, I simply could not keep my steel runner tight in the holder. I would have to tighten it almost daily and still they would 'click' every time I took a step. I could move the runner side to side in the holder.

After changing runners and holders and having them in the shop a few times, I found out the perfect fix.

I bought Bauer one95's.

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If I were you I would think twice about drilling new holes in the boot when you can drill new holes in the holders and use the existing Graf screws. On Graf skates, I have replaced TBlades with Easton Razor holders and replaced NT 3000 with Easton holders and in each case I was able to drill new holes in the holder itself and reuse the Graf screws to secure holders. In both cases the holders are attached to the boot very firmly. Once you drill new holes and use rivets, you the cannot undue the damage to the boot foot bed, if they do not feel right/comfortable it too late. it will be very difficult to go back to the Graf screws to attach any holder.

EVERY SINGLE PERSON I've asked who is educated in this matter strongly advised against drilling into the holders.

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The holes are in strategic parts for a reason. Now if you blew one hole, I'd understand, but yeah, you want them to be where they are.

Graf anchors them in the most critical parts.

That being said, the aluminum bolts suck. I snapped one a while back while dismounting a set of Cobras.

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