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Ital79

Runner tech

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Does anyone know what grade of steel typical runners are (Tuuk LS2 for example)? Also, are the runners treated in any way, shape, or form for strength -or- are they just stamped out like any garden variety consumable?

I'm asking b/c I may have my runners cryo treated just for the hell of it. In theory, they should hold an edge a bit better/longer and have a better finish when sharpened properly. But if the steel has already been treated, I won't waste my time.

Thanks

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I can shed some light here.

I recently traded email with Stepsteel; here is the conversation:

Good morning.

I am interested in the specific grade or series of stainless steel used in your blades.

I have a home sharpener and I am looking for the optimum grinding wheel for your steel.

Considering how it cuts, it’s magnetic properties, and the spark stream, I an guessing you use a martensitic 410 or 440 stainless.

Confirm/deny?

Thanks in advance,

...

The quick reply:

Thank you for your inquiry. We use 440A stainless.

Judging from the steel I have examined, it appears that Stepsteel is laser cutting their blanks. The LSII (and custom+) steel I have seen appears to be stamped and cold worked.

I wouldn't spend my money on cryotreating steel in this application. They take too much abuse and get sharpened too frequently to realize any sort of improvement.

I have been working steel for 10+ years in some form or another. Let me know if you have any more questions I might be able to help with.

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Most steel is Laser Cut now. Stamping leaves an "un-square" edge where the steel bottoms into the holder. This can tip the steel a little out of true with the holder when it's tightened. Some steel is still stamped, though.

As for further treating your steel, it has probably been tried and tested before. I wanted to try powder coating some steel, though. You could make it any colour. Not sure how it would look after sharpening, though. Maybe if the sharpener kept the heat low. I'll get around to it in 10 years.

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Hi all,

I was thinking about designing my own runner and let it laser-cutted. Does any one have already tried with Titanium? Thats almost half of the weight as steel and properties are not so bad.

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Hi all,

I was thinking about designing my own runner and let it laser-cutted. Does any one have already tried with Titanium? Thats almost half of the weight as steel and properties are not so bad.

Your skate sharpener will hate you

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Hi all,

I was thinking about designing my own runner and let it laser-cutted. Does any one have already tried with Titanium? Thats almost half of the weight as steel and properties are not so bad.

Your skate sharpener will hate you

I would take those skates to someone I didnt like and watch them curse and yell and put on a band new wheel every time I came in the shop lol

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Hi all,

I was thinking about designing my own runner and let it laser-cutted. Does any one have already tried with Titanium? Thats almost half of the weight as steel and properties are not so bad.

Your skate sharpener will hate you

I would take those skates to someone I didnt like and watch them curse and yell and put on a band new wheel every time I came in the shop lol

While ti is roughly 40% lighter than steel, it's not as hard. It's a more flexible metal and probably not well-suited for blades. I use titanium valves and valve spring retainers in my race engines. There are also titanium connecting rods and other odds and ends available. Cryo treatment has shown some benefits in race engines, and might be interesting to see with a set of runners as well. There are also anti-friction coatings that I've used on some internal engine parts which have intrigued me as to other uses too...

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The best thing would be to fuse it to regular steel like a rocketrunner, but then again why not use aluminum since its much cheaper... oh wait.

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There are also other materials such as a metal matrix that would be lightweight yet strong and suitable for blade use. I use metal matrix spool valves in transmissions to reduce the time it takes for them to move when they're released with an electric solenoid and then moved by line pressure. But cost would be frightening most likely for blades to be manufactured. All in all, for such a minimal weight loss it's not a beneficial thing for most of us.

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That's why you have to think simple. Bauer has come up with the easiest, cheapest way to do while remaining "idiot-proof." Obviously CCM had a more cost effective design but it didn't work because the vast majority of sharpeners suck.

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