Need Skate Punch Out Expert Advice

[goodguy 7]

What is the correct way to punch out an area of a skate (ankle) for a skate like the KOR Shift 2 (or something like a One95) with a one piece composite full thermoformable fiber "shell" type construction.

I am guessing one would just heat the problem area and apply pressure to reform it "outward" and thereby punching out the spot.

I had Vapor XXXX's punched out at the skate shop last year which resulted in an small pinball sized pop out at the problem spot which eventually reduced in size but solved the rubbing. That seemed ok because the Vapor XXXX is a foam skate and I know that is how it is done.

My questions is: since the KOR shift 2 is a different skate composition (one piece composite), would having it punched out in the traditional way crack the "shell" - I am afraid my usual shop performs the punch out (in a conventional way) and they crack the skate. I assume they know what they are doing in this regard but I just thought I would check with you guys.

But since the skate is so formable, I am thinking this can be done at home using some sort of device to punch out the spot after heating (perhaps placing a small pad in with the foot during forming to push out the problem spot). Maybe I can just heat up the problem spot and push from the inside with a pinball or something to get it to form outward in that one spot. I would think it would be easier to do something like this (at home) on this type of skate than let's say a vapor XXXX since the vapor does not have the fully formable shell idea.

Any suggestions.

My sons foot (not sure of the bone name - not the actual ankle bone, but right below and in front of the ankle) - the bone that protudes below the ankle on the inside of the foot needs more space necessitating a punch out due to rubbing/blistering in that spot. (had the same thing done to his last Vapor xxxx's).

Any suggestions on how to easily get this spot punched out. Thanks.

[SolarWind 23]

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but I was looking for the exact same info & couldn't find it.

since there's been no replies can someone please shed some light on how to punch Alive (T1 specifically - not sure if it'd be different from One100/One95) based skates correctly?

Thanks!

[forbs02 20]

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but I was looking for the exact same info & couldn't find it.

since there's been no replies can someone please shed some light on how to punch Alive (T1 specifically - not sure if it'd be different from One100/One95) based skates correctly?

Thanks!

I usually spot heat the area with a heat gun, not letting it get too hot, and then put it on the punch overnight. It seems to work pretty well and the skates hold up fine.

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

If you have a spot on the foot that needs to be punched and you don't have access to a punch/or not sure it would work, take a roll of tape and make a ball then tape the ball on the skater's foot. Heat up the area and have them put the skate on. It should expand that area.

[GoWings85 0]

http://www.pro-filer.com/bootpunch/

That's all you need...as far as doing it to ALIVE, I don't see if being a problem. You're not going to do it with the boot cold, so once they're heated it becomes pretty maleable (sp?).

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

He said he was doing it on a KOR, not a Supreme skate. KOR doesn't have ALIVE.

[SolarWind 23]

He said he was doing it on a KOR, not a Supreme skate. KOR doesn't have ALIVE.

that was the original poster and that was one year ago :)

I personally don't care for KOR (not sure if anyone does anymore nowadays) so my question was about TotalOnes specifically...

so just to confirm the idea with the ball of tape was for Alive based boots correct?

would make sense since the boot is so pliable after heating...

I'm also curious - when pros get their custom skates made (and many of them now use molds vs. plain measurements) do then still get boots based off retail last (and then punch etc as needed) or would their skates already account for various foot deformities such as ankle bones, haglunds etc?

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

My method will work for the TotalONE.

[Reg Dunlop 0]

JR - How long do you recommend that I hit the outside of the skate with heat? I am working with a pair of Bauer APXs and a standard Wagner heat gun (has a high and low setting). I am nervous about overheating the boot.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[Vet88 674]

I've done this on Rbk, Bauer and Alkali skates for punching specific areas. Heat gun on high, around 2 minutes of heating and ALWAYS keep the heat gun moving, heat gun held around 15cm's from the boot. Never let the heat sit on on just one spot. I also heat inside and out during the 2 minute period, say 20 seconds outside then 5 seconds inside, repeat.

[darmin 2]

I don't know if this will help but i made a boot punch using this site as a template

http://www.epicski.com/t/90523/ski-boot-punch-instructions

all up it cost be $20 at the local hardware store. I used a golf ball for the punch section.

I have only used it on my inline boots, mission T-9's and a pair of easton S17's.

I heated it up using a heat gun on low and heated up the area i needed to mold and surounding area's.

The good thing with the vice grip's was that it locked on place and i left it for an hour.

[CBD5600 0]

I don't know if this will help but i made a boot punch using this site as a template

http://www.epicski.c...ch-instructions

all up it cost be $20 at the local hardware store. I used a golf ball for the punch section.

I have only used it on my inline boots, mission T-9's and a pair of easton S17's.

I heated it up using a heat gun on low and heated up the area i needed to mold and surounding area's.

The good thing with the vice grip's was that it locked on place and i left it for an hour.

I used a similar method but with a C-Clamp, Golf Ball and a large socket. Worked like a charm.

[Vet88 674]

I used a similar method but with a C-Clamp, Golf Ball and a large socket. Worked like a charm.

I used to use this method but found it difficult to keep the socket / golf ball in alignment and get any decent pressure. I then found a simpler way. I found a D shaped stone and taped this to the head of the c-clamp. Then I got some steel measuring spoons from the local homeware shop. These are the kind that are riveted together at the base of the handle. I put the stone inside the teaspoon and the tablespoon goes on the outside of the boot. Because they are riveted together you can use the handles to make sure the inside and outside line up perfectly before you begin to clamp.