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gxc999

Bigger curve- something I noticed

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I always used to put my wristers and snappers high over the net, even with a pm9. I found out, a while back, what I was doing wrong, and have since worked hard on keeping my shots low. It always seemed low shots were harder, I've read that before and feel the same. Now I'm able to use more of a curve, p106, Drury etc and keep it under the bar, so I close my wrists completely and get more lift on the shot, but also more power too. Is this why so many pros use a bigger curve? Has anyone ever documented this?

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Much like golf, you lose power when you leave the face open.

That's exactly how it feels. So would what I'm saying make sense, using a more open curve lets you get more loft while maintaining that extra power from closing the face?

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Much like golf, you lose power when you leave the face open.

That's exactly how it feels. So would what I'm saying make sense, using a more open curve lets you get more loft while maintaining that extra power from closing the face?

It's not the more open curve specifically. Anything that allows you to deliver power through more of the shooting motion will provide the same benefit.

Assuming you are using the correct lie and something close to a good shooting technique, most people will find that either going to a lighter flex or adding more loft makes it much easier to add more velocity on high shots. There are valid reasons for people choosing either option over the other.

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This is over how long of a time? Getting more power as you develop your technique might be from building muscles used in shooting, or learning to get more out of the shot as your shot efficiency got better.

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This is over how long of a time? Getting more power as you develop your technique might be from building muscles used in shooting, or learning to get more out of the shot as your shot efficiency got better.

I've worked so much on my wrister, it has gotten pretty efficient power/technique wise. My snapper and slapper however lag behind. I've also begun to find, as I gain strength, my shot is stronger with a stiffer flex. I'd like to think it's from good technique. My rule is, if it's visible to others that the stick is flex when I take a snapshot, then it's not too stiff but if I feel like I'm losing control on a wrister, it's a no go.

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I just switched from a 260 flex pro stock dolomite shaft to an 85 flex and all I can say is WOW! My shot improved drastically. I'm now officially benching any sticks I have over 85 flex.

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I just switched from a 260 flex pro stock dolomite shaft to an 85 flex and all I can say is WOW! My shot improved drastically. I'm now officially benching any sticks I have over 85 flex.

Back a couple of years ago, I had to use whip flex, I was probably 140. I also used a pm9. I wasn't particularly strong, understatement. I gained 20 lbs, need an R flex. I also experimented with using a more pronounced curve. Then gained another 20-25 and now I need a 95-102 in most sticks to get more snap behind my wrister. With some sticks, I need a 105 or so. The 09 U+ sticks are pretty whippy, even at 102. I'm okay cutting it 1-1.5 inches. OTOH, the one95 is perfect at 95-98. I think most people should use whippier flexes or get stronger in general.

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You can still use whippy sticks at your weight/strength. It would just be a bit of adjustment for technique.

I really can't imagine it's practical. I know that Brett Hull did and he was certainly a good bit stronger than I am, but that whips out my sticks too fast. I suppose I wish my technique was as good as Brett's! Note: despite being a hair under 6'0, my torso is as long as that of a person who is 6'2-6'3, but have short legs, maybe that is a factor.

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To use a lighter flex you might have to slow down your hands and let the stick work. The ironic thing is that it often results in a harder shot than trying to whip your hands through as fast as possible. I've taught a lot of kids how to take a slapshot and in almost every case, the first thing I had to do was get them to slow down. Once they get a good form and motion, they suddenly have more power and consistency with much less effort put into the shot.

Technique is more important than raw strength and having a feel for your stick is up there as well. Maybe it's just because I've been using the same make/model sticks for the better part of five or six years now, but I know exactly what is going on with my shot based on the feedback I get through the shaft.

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To use a lighter flex you might have to slow down your hands and let the stick work. The ironic thing is that it often results in a harder shot than trying to whip your hands through as fast as possible. I've taught a lot of kids how to take a slapshot and in almost every case, the first thing I had to do was get them to slow down. Once they get a good form and motion, they suddenly have more power and consistency with much less effort put into the shot.

Technique is more important than raw strength and having a feel for your stick is up there as well. Maybe it's just because I've been using the same make/model sticks for the better part of five or six years now, but I know exactly what is going on with my shot based on the feedback I get through the shaft.

Great advice on technique; especially slowing things down a bit to keep good form and motion. It's kind of like a golf swing; if you keep your swing smooth and in good tempo; the results are usually much better. Where when someone forces a swing with brute strength, the shot may be less than stellar.

Out of curiosity, what hockey stick have been using for so many years? Also, if you don't mind expanding on what factors made your decision to keep it in play for so many years?

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To use a lighter flex you might have to slow down your hands and let the stick work. The ironic thing is that it often results in a harder shot than trying to whip your hands through as fast as possible. I've taught a lot of kids how to take a slapshot and in almost every case, the first thing I had to do was get them to slow down. Once they get a good form and motion, they suddenly have more power and consistency with much less effort put into the shot.

Technique is more important than raw strength and having a feel for your stick is up there as well. Maybe it's just because I've been using the same make/model sticks for the better part of five or six years now, but I know exactly what is going on with my shot based on the feedback I get through the shaft.

Great advice on technique; especially slowing things down a bit to keep good form and motion. It's kind of like a golf swing; if you keep your swing smooth and in good tempo; the results are usually much better. Where when someone forces a swing with brute strength, the shot may be less than stellar.

Out of curiosity, what hockey stick have been using for so many years? Also, if you don't mind expanding on what factors made your decision to keep it in play for so many years?

I can hear some of the old timers here groaning already (I have routinely professed my love for these sticks for years)

R flex TPS R2XN10 shafts with TPS P31 tapered blades. I found the XN10 sticks to produce the best shot performance for me and my shooting motion. To be honest, I still haven't found a stick that I think kicks as well as the XN10 sticks did. Gomez finally ran out of his stock last year and even talked about saving some for a potential playoff run at one point.

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I've been working on what Chadd suggested for the past hour in my shooting gallery, amazing results. I literally gained 10-15mph by just slowing down, especially on my snapper. I was cleanly connecting with boomers 90% of the time on the snap but missing half of my wristers as I fatigued. Wow, thanks for the advice!!

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So are you still convinced a deeper curve or face angle is as large of a contributor to your shot velocity?

A lot of kids will use a deep curve as a crutch because getting the puck to spin allows it to stick to the face on the follow through of the shot, which will allow better control. As technique builds the player can achieve the same effect with wrist motion and curve choices are opened up to tweak their game.

I would bet if you go back to a PM9 or similar curve you'd be shooting very similarly once you've adjusted to the curve (if you can adjust to it).

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So are you still convinced a deeper curve or face angle is as large of a contributor to your shot velocity?

A lot of kids will use a deep curve as a crutch because getting the puck to spin allows it to stick to the face on the follow through of the shot, which will allow better control. As technique builds the player can achieve the same effect with wrist motion and curve choices are opened up to tweak their game.

I would bet if you go back to a PM9 or similar curve you'd be shooting very similarly once you've adjusted to the curve (if you can adjust to it).

It's technique, you are right. I think that the face might help a little bit, just a few percent.

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To use a lighter flex you might have to slow down your hands and let the stick work. The ironic thing is that it often results in a harder shot than trying to whip your hands through as fast as possible. I've taught a lot of kids how to take a slapshot and in almost every case, the first thing I had to do was get them to slow down. Once they get a good form and motion, they suddenly have more power and consistency with much less effort put into the shot.

Technique is more important than raw strength and having a feel for your stick is up there as well. Maybe it's just because I've been using the same make/model sticks for the better part of five or six years now, but I know exactly what is going on with my shot based on the feedback I get through the shaft.

Great advice on technique; especially slowing things down a bit to keep good form and motion. It's kind of like a golf swing; if you keep your swing smooth and in good tempo; the results are usually much better. Where when someone forces a swing with brute strength, the shot may be less than stellar.

Out of curiosity, what hockey stick have been using for so many years? Also, if you don't mind expanding on what factors made your decision to keep it in play for so many years?

I can hear some of the old timers here groaning already (I have routinely professed my love for these sticks for years)

R flex TPS R2XN10 shafts with TPS P31 tapered blades. I found the XN10 sticks to produce the best shot performance for me and my shooting motion. To be honest, I still haven't found a stick that I think kicks as well as the XN10 sticks did. Gomez finally ran out of his stock last year and even talked about saving some for a potential playoff run at one point.

Thanks for the info on the shaft/blade combo that you use! Although I'm really new to hockey, I always like to keep an open mind when it comes to trying out different hockey sticks. Definitely much appreciated!

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I had some prototypes and one was amazing. It's too bad that the project got killed off when Sher-wood entered the picture.

I hear this more and more and am amazed that TPS ever got away from something truly special.
To be honest, I still haven't found a stick that I think kicks as well as the XN10 sticks did.

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If my clapper is going over the net (sometimes clear over the glass even if I dont follow through much at all,) and my wrister is on point, is it a technique thing or a (new) curve thing?

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If my clapper is going over the net (sometimes clear over the glass even if I dont follow through much at all,) and my wrister is on point, is it a technique thing or a (new) curve thing?

Purely technique.

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If my clapper is going over the net (sometimes clear over the glass even if I dont follow through much at all,) and my wrister is on point, is it a technique thing or a (new) curve thing?

One thing I noticed myself is you can make any curve put slappers way up over the net, simply by rotating your shoulders more on the follow through. It seems like you're doing exactly that. Try to not get your front shoulder up so much on the follow through.

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