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c-malc-02

Re-Curving a Stealth CNT

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First of all, I'm new here, thanks to everyone who made this forum available to me, it looks really great, cant wait to become a part of it!

I tried to search this topic, but couldnt really find the information I needed so,

I bought a Stealth CNT 100 flex Forsberg curve a few weeks ago, for about $150 at the local SportChek. Ive been dying to try a CNT for a while now so when I found this deal, I jumped on it. Problem is, they only had Forsberg curves in stock, which I have never been a fan of, but I sucked it up and bought one. And I really do not like the curve. I want to try to "re-curve" it to resemble a Sakic a little more, but Ive known two people who've had Stealths, and according to them the blades can be pretty delicate, so I don't want to screw the whole blade up.

So would anyone be able to tell me what would be the best method to recurve it?

Thanks

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Recurving a composite blade is risky. The durability goes down sharply. Honestly, I'd sell it and hold out for an Iginla or a Sakic.

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First of all, I'm new here, thanks to everyone who made this forum available to me, it looks really great, cant wait to become a part of it!

I tried to search this topic, but couldnt really find the information I needed so,

I bought a Stealth CNT 100 flex Forsberg curve a few weeks ago, for about $150 at the local SportChek. Ive been dying to try a CNT for a while now so when I found this deal, I jumped on it. Problem is, they only had Forsberg curves in stock, which I have never been a fan of, but I sucked it up and bought one. And I really do not like the curve. I want to try to "re-curve" it to resemble a Sakic a little more, but Ive known two people who've had Stealths, and according to them the blades can be pretty delicate, so I don't want to screw the whole blade up.

So would anyone be able to tell me what would be the best method to recurve it?

Thanks

Get a ProCurve....Google it...

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anyone ever use the procurve on a composite blade?

Yes...Been doing it since the first Synergy came out. You must be careful with the heat...Took me a few years of tinkering to get it right. You will probably hear many who will chime in saying this is a bad idea...I'm not here to argue the point, merely saying it can be done IF you know what you're doing. I've had my procurve for over 10 years, best hockey related investment I've ever made.

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Yes...Been doing it since the first Synergy came out. You must be careful with the heat...Took me a few years of tinkering to get it right. You will probably hear many who will chime in saying this is a bad idea...I'm not here to argue the point, merely saying it can be done IF you know what you're doing. I've had my procurve for over 10 years, best hockey related investment I've ever made.

good to know

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K i definately need one lol what do you use for heat like a torch? Heatgun?

Gas stove...blade at least 10-12 inches from the flame. Flipping it back and forth (face to backhand), never allowing the heat to stay in one spot for too long..Watch the surface of the blade for signs of stress. 5 minutes or so of this. While blade is still in the clamp, run cold water over it to cool off. Unclamp and check out your handywork. The key is to start with a blade that is similiar to the desired curve you want..in other words, don't try to make a heel curve a toe curve, or expect to create some Coffeyesque banana hook if the blade doesn't already slightly resemble one. I make my Iginla mid curve a toe curve. I actually take most of the curve out of it (pressure from the clamp on the backhand side) then cool it off. The second step is to put the clamp toward the toe (forehand side), and heat again for the desired effect.

Disclaimers...1) I would never attempt this without the Procurve. The procurve allows you to preset the tension levels so you don't have to tinker with adjustments while you heat the blade.

2) If you screw it up and it's still under warranty, I advise against trying to send it back on ethical reasons alone....

3) My slapshots are few and far between, I'm sure this adds to the longevity of my blades.

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I know two or three people with a pro curve and they always have a new stick every time I see them.

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I know two or three people with a pro curve and they always have a new stick every time I see them.

I know it's not for everyone....there's a skill level involved. Currently on month 6 with my tapered blade. On the ice 4 times a week

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I know two or three people with a pro curve and they always have a new stick every time I see them.

It could also be because they're gear whores. If you're going to invest in a pro curve, you're likely to invest in new sticks all the time as well. I'll admit to being a tinkerer when it comes to buying gear and finding what works for me. Hockey is expensive like that.

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It could also be because they're gear whores. If you're going to invest in a pro curve, you're likely to invest in new sticks all the time as well. I'll admit to being a tinkerer when it comes to buying gear and finding what works for me. Hockey is expensive like that.

If that was the case, I would have brought it up. They tend towards more extreme curves, but they go through an absurd number of sticks due to broken blades.

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I think you have a stick/pattern that you could resell pretty easily. +1 for getting your money back or trading it.

I think that the Procurve sounds interesting, but that you might risk ruining a few blades to get it to work well for you/get your technique down. I'm not sure I'd risk that with a CNT.

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I'm pretty sure this tool was designed for curving wood blades. Also, I highly doubt the OP will be able to get it right the first time so I wouldn't advise doing it on a brand new stick.

I'm pretty sure this tool was designed for curving wood blades. Also, I highly doubt the OP will be able to get it right the first time so I wouldn't advise doing it on a brand new stick.

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I'm pretty sure this tool was designed for curving wood blades. Also, I highly doubt the OP will be able to get it right the first time so I wouldn't advise doing it on a brand new stick.

I'm pretty sure this tool was designed for curving wood blades. Also, I highly doubt the OP will be able to get it right the first time so I wouldn't advise doing it on a brand new stick.

Much less a CNT.

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Yea it looks like Im gonna be selling the stick to a buddy of mine, and I have another friend in a different town who tells me they still have many Sakics at his Sport Chek. This could work out yet (:

Still really considering in investing in a ProCurve though

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Yea sold the stick to my buddy, made a $50 profit on it ;) hehe but I read all the CNT reviews and I'm still really interested in trying one out so I'm gonna see if I can get my hands on another one before they become completely obsolete from store shelves. So thanks alot for everyones help and input. Also I'm gonna be in the market for a procurve now haha

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I don't know if this has been asked before, but has anyone ever tried to curve a abs blade (roller hockey on asphalt) before? There aren't alot of abs blades out there and I can't find a pattern I like...

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I don't know if this has been asked before, but has anyone ever tried to curve a abs blade (roller hockey on asphalt) before? There aren't alot of abs blades out there and I can't find a pattern I like...

Yes it's extremely easy and kinda fun ( whenever the balde gets to small and i need a new stick i give the old one a nice hook and use it untill its absolutely unuseable) just heat it over a stove rotating and use hands that are covered so you dont burn yourself and the abs shouldn't break if it does you didn't heat it enough. The oustside fiberglass or whatever is on the outside of the blade might appear to be broken but it isn't and you can tweak and tweak these things like crazy changing it up

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