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How come the puck flutters when I shoot via ice than concrete?

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What am I doing wrong?

Went to the rink today and could not for the life of me get the puck to spin properly when thrown to the net. So I went home and shot, and while shooting the puck started spinning how it should instead of fluttering. So I'm wondering why the puck flutters to where I shoot rather than spin. Any help is appreciated, thanks

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Is the puck literally on concrete? I would think it would be really hard to get it to spin at all unless that's some damn smooth concrete. My guess is this has something to do with your strength on skates maybe?

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Are you in skates when you stand on the concrete?

Winning post. This means you're not using the same form, e.g. transferring weight, snapping both hands properly etc.

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yeah, when you are on yer feet yer like 1-2 inches shorter and it changes your lie on the stick. your now shooting from the heel more and that may be causing the wobble.

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yeah, when you are on yer feet yer like 1-2 inches shorter and it changes your lie on the stick. your now shooting from the heel more and that may be causing the wobble.

Good point, that could be true as well. Generally though, it's because of what Chadd said. Also, make sure you're snapping the top hand back enough.

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Good point, that could be true as well. Generally though, it's because of what Chadd said. Also, make sure you're snapping the top hand back enough.

Thanks for the advice all. I am not on skates while playing in the back yard, and I have one of those practice pads if you know what im referring to. So I have been shooting off of that as imitating ice. Now what get's me is my shots come out perfect while shooting off this pad, but as soon as I get on Ice they immediately flutter. So something isn't right here, maybe it's my form, maybe it's the lie like a few of you suggested. So I am wondering what steps I should take to correct this fluttering puck deal.

Thanks!

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You are getting more weight transfer because you are in shoes as opposed to skates. Just like bigger tires grip the road better, the larger contact patch of your shoes is giving you far better traction and allowing you to transfer your weight better. As for the lie, take an old stick and cut it 1-1.5 inches shorter to better simulate the height difference between skates and shoes.

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You are getting more weight transfer because you are in shoes as opposed to skates. Just like bigger tires grip the road better, the larger contact patch of your shoes is giving you far better traction and allowing you to transfer your weight better. As for the lie, take an old stick and cut it 1-1.5 inches shorter to better simulate the height difference between skates and shoes.

What I do is get at least two of the same stick, use one for off ice and one for on ice.

What I do with the off-ice is this: CIMG3671.jpg

It helps eliminate the difference from being on skates to not on skates. The only thing that sucks is that it's not just a "temp" thing. I need to find a way to make the knob something I can just get on or off in a matter of minutes and not waste a bunch of tape in the process.

This technique makes me stay away from Pro stock sticks, because you can't really stock up on those. Retail is better because it's easier to get the exact same stick for on/off ice training if you know what I mean.

I feel like using the same stick is important, because switching sticks makes you adjust again, which kind of defeats the purpose of off-ice training.

Anyways, I'd try that out if you have two of the same stick, or if you can find a way to get a knob-type thing on your stick to make you hold it lower then that would work great, and tell me how you did it because once my other stick snaps I'm only going to have the one.

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just cut the stick down and use two different extensions and your desired lengths.

Yeah or that, I just don't want to cut down anything when it can be avoided :blink:

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stand on a couple of phone books and see how that works. my guess is you're technique is differing on ice vs on concrete. you are much less stable on ice, and the puck moves much easier off your stick on ice than concrete. you might be fanning on the puck and not putting in the same follow through/contact with the puck.

also, with a p92 curve and being elevated on ice you're probably contacting with the toe more which is curved up, rather than having the puck spin off the length of the blade.

bend your knees more on the ice.

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This happens to me on the ice when I'm at full speed and trying to snap a shot off as fast as I can. Basically, you're compromising technique.

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Awesome posts everyone, everything you are suggesting is extremely helpful for me to perfect the wrist shot.

I have a clinic in a few hours for my league, I will try what you all suggested and get back to you regarding it.

Thanks!

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I'll add another opinion.

When on concrete, there's a ton of friction on the ground. When you're shooting, it's really easy to put spin on the puck, because it doesn't slide at first when you push it. But on the ice it's so slippery that when you try to use the same shooting motion, the puck slides along the ice too quickly and that can cause fluttering.

The best way to help this is to use a shooting board, preferably one that's had some kind of polish or spray to make it slippery like ice. Exaggerate the wrist snapping and the heel-to-toe rolling while shooting, and that should help you quite a bit.

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Still having issues with this guys. I am getting heavily frustrated now.

I can snap shot the sh*t out of the puck and wrist shot it also on an acrylic pad.

But as soon as it comes to ice!, I get the fluttering effect kinda like a football being kicked through the goal posts for a field goal.

I dont understand am i suppose to roll both wrists? or will my bottom hand wrist be just as fine when shooting?

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There's very little we can do as we can't see you shoot. Your best bet is to hire a local coach for a private lesson, most rinks have a list of people that offer lessons there. Chances are they will be able to fix your problem in just a few minutes.

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Yeah or that, I just don't want to cut down anything when it can be avoided :blink:

its not like you're cutting a ton off. c'mon man, everyone does it ;)

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Try more forward wrist roll on the top hand. Keeping the face closed should help straighten it out.

May I ask where the face should be closed? and what does this mean?

Thanks

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Its natural to let the face of the blade turn up to face the ceiling (open) as you follow through. That will make the puck flutter or knuckle-ball more often than not. If you roll your top wrist forward, making the face "close" toward the ice, that propels the puck forward and imparts the spin that makes it fly nice and frisbee like. The wrist roll happens as the puck rides up the blade from the heel to the toe and the face of the blade finishes facing down toward the ice with the stick pointed at the target. At least that's what it seems like to me :)

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If you dont want to cut your stick shorter, i suggest you hold it about 1.5" lower when shooting on concrete with correct posture (bent knees more so than on ice, because on ice it will be normal, while on concrete you get lazy).

When i shoot in my backyard w/my ice hockey sticks, i just hold it a bit lower to mimic the stick length. If you want, you can even tape a second "knob" on that part for temporary purpose.

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