converting dolomite ops into 2 piece question

[Sniper9 549]

When my old dolomite's blade broke a while back, i was able to simply head up the shaft at the fuse point and pull out the blade and replaced it with another tapered dolo blade.. that was the first gen dolomites... this time around, i have the spyne dolomite... i heated it up and yanked and yanked but the thing didn't budge! does warrior not use heat acting agents to fuse their dolomites anymore? do i have to cut and chisel the tenon out on the new dolos?

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

When my old dolomite's blade broke a while back, i was able to simply head up the shaft at the fuse point and pull out the blade and replaced it with another tapered dolo blade.. that was the first gen dolomites... this time around, i have the spyne dolomite... i heated it up and yanked and yanked but the thing didn't budge! does warrior not use heat acting agents to fuse their dolomites anymore? do i have to cut and chisel the tenon out on the new dolos?

Don't think you can heat and pull a dolo spyne for some reason. I found a broken first gen dolo and couldn't get it to budge with heat. I ended up cutting at the fuse point and knocked the tenon. Might as well just go with the cut and chisel route. Also there's also this thread

[sm326 0]

I don't recommend chiseling unless you're very good with tools or else you'll just chip through the layers and fray the end. I've done it to every OPS i've ever used, with the exception of my one95 since the hosel wasn't standard sized. It beats buying shafts for $80+ every time.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

I don't recommend chiseling unless you're very good with tools or else you'll just chip through the layers and fray the end. I've done it to every OPS i've ever used, with the exception of my one95 since the hosel wasn't standard sized. It beats buying shafts for $80+ every time.

hammer and a chisel or hammer and flat head screwdriver should do the trick

[sm326 0]

hammer and a chisel or hammer and flat head screwdriver should do the trick

My dad's a carpenter so I would say a chisel would work better. I've used a bunch of different widths based on the spot of the hosel.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

I usually use both when knocking out tenons

[sm326 0]

I've never used a screwdriver mainly because the chisels I use are always sharpened.

[Sniper9 549]

thanks for the reply guys! i just knew the ol first gen dolo came out like a glove lol... oh well ill try the chiselling.. if it seems a bit too tedious.. ill just cut where the hosel ends

[Sniper9 549]

so i cut the dolo where the fuse point is and i dont know where you guys get the patience to chisel out 2 inches of hosel/tenon. an inch.. ok maybe.. but the whole hosel length of tenon is a bit much for me lol.. i estimated where the end of the hosel would be and it looks like that is where the shaft starts to really expands into the shaft width.. dont think it would be worth cutting it that high and have the kick point/flex be off. maybe if it were for roller hockey, sure, but for ice, i like my sticks to be a certain way. ill keep it in storage until i dont feel lazy and chisel away. i am afraid i will chisel the shaft by accident more than anything.. but then again, it could be easier than i am imagining..

on another note. i picked up a xxx lite from a friend that had its blade break off. i cut it to exactly the location where it would have a fused point if it were a fused ops... saw a bit of debris and scraped/plucked it out.. did a bit of lights cleaning, and my dolo blade fit in there like a glove! i know with the bauer sticks its hit or miss how high you have to cut it, but this one worked out perfect.... maybe because it is a pro stock and some other xxx prostocks are really one90s or vice versa.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

I don't think knocking the tenon out takes too long.

[Sniper9 549]

i dont have a chisel, so i think using a flat head would take longer.. nor do i have a vice to keep the shaft steady.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

i dont have a chisel, so i think using a flat head would take longer.. nor do i have a vice to keep the shaft steady.

I've never used a vice for the three times I did. I just would switch off using the chisel and flat head and it took about 10 min

[shotty 7]

i dont have a chisel, so i think using a flat head would take longer.. nor do i have a vice to keep the shaft steady.

invest in a chisel. it's well worth it. no vice needed.

[Sniper9 549]

does heating it up make it that much easier or would a chisel be suffice?

[IniNew 53]

Go to your local hardware store, take a piece of rebar and drop it into the butt end side of the shaft. That's what I would do.

[sm326 0]

Go to your local hardware store, take a piece of rebar and drop it into the butt end side of the shaft. That's what I would do.

I've always contemplated doing this when I break blades at the hosel but I found it to be easier when I put a screw in the hosel and do the heat and yank method.

[Sniper9 549]

this would work if the new spynes used heat activated epoxy.. apparently it doesn't anymore, so i think i will have to chisel.