Sniper9

Ppl are buying if they keep making. Also it shows you how huge the markup is for them to only sell it to a select demographic.

I guess we will see how people respond to the skates. I really doubt CCM would create a skate with a legit 6mm heel lift and expect the majority of people to find it not awkward to skate in. I'm still amazed that it took this long for a skate company to add some lining to the inside orbs toe cap. True has done it since inception but Bauer and CCM have been around for ages. I guess anything to save a step in the manufacturing process.

Not if the boot itself has a different offset to begin with. For example. Bauer supreme and vapors both use the same holders but the supremes make you feel a bit more on your heels than the vapor. So to make the supremes feel closer to the vapors you can put shims on the heel or profile the steel.

The heel of the boot looks higher up than other skates. Which means the shim might actually not be as aggressive as we predict and might just be that thick to offset how high the heel is in relation to the forefoot. Just my thoughts from looking at the skates in the picture. It wouldnt make sense for ccm to just add a 6mm shim to the rear of the skates if the boot had the same heel to toe offset or their other models. It would be way too extreme for most people to get used to.

If you like the nexus stick with the Nexus. Eagles look like they are all external belts? I could be wrong but if so it feels much different than the internal system Bauer uses.

Not sure but those are hideous.

Pulse is a variable kick so yes it's similar if you're looking at trying different brands. Is your ft5 an ft5 or ft5 pro? Also prostockhockeysticks makes a variable kick VF and you can choose some pro player curve options too. Warrior lx3 pro is advertised as a low kick/quick release but from what I've read it kind of plays like a hybrid and is very versatile too.

I plan to get the 10 on sale down the road. Also want to try the sr 65 flex since I've been rocking the 70 for years.

Lie makes a difference for sure. If it's the same lie, I've tested both measuring and cutting to match heel to end of stick and standing tall. Like you said, blade length does affect standing length. Unfortunately from my experience it just depends how it feels overall since there so many variables when it comes to changing and trying different curve patterns. For me, even a 1/4" difference in the exact same stick and curve affects how I stickhandle. I wish I wasn't so sensitive to such a small change. 😔. My advice is to be on the safe side and leave the new curve a bit longer than what you have and slowly cut it shorter and shorter until it feels comfortable, but the reality is that regardless whether it's the "right" height, there will be an overall adjustment period with the new curve due to lie, rocker, toe shape, overall curve shape differences. I personally have a hard time getting used to blades that don't have the same rocker as the p28. I love the versatility of the blade shape and rocker. I think my ideal blade would be a p28 shape with a Hossa pro curve. I really like the hossa pro but wish it had more rocker.

I haven't used the qr6 pro but I've used the qr5 pro, qredge, and qrl. Imo they feel quite different than the triggers. The triggers feel like a smooth low kick while the coverts feel similar to vapors in that the kick points feel very low and a pretty pingy blade. The triggers kick point almost feels a bit higher than the covert but obviously lower than a mid kick. It's tough because every generation trigger has subtle differences. The last one I tried was the 8 pro and I didn't like it at all. Felt very pingy. I loved the 4 pro and the 7 pro was nice. I took a couple shots with my buddy's 10 pro and that felt good too.

It may be something that may be better received in Europe and not north America. Just like how graf is still hanging around.

Wait, so is the waist size listed on CCMs pants your waist measurement or the pant size you wear? I know with Bauer their number sizes are for pant size as they tell you to measure your waist then subtract 3 from that number (which is essentially what your pant size would be). But I always wondered what the numbers on CCM pants referred to. I'm 5'10 160 lbs and my pant size is 30 and waist measures at 32-33". I fit a small in the hp45 snugly when it's new but when broken in (within 4-5 wears) it fits perfect. As for length, it is fine both zipped or unzipped as I like my pants to just fall an inch over the top edge of my shins knee caps at most.

Thanks. I'll def look into this option for future users.

Thanks for the reply. That stuff would be a good option especially when attaching the plastic insert over the EPS foam board (same as using a polyurethane adhesive like construction adhesive, gorilla glue etc). It would also work attaching the EPS foam board on the softer neoprene like backing as well (not pictured) but the only issue is that unless the glue has a high tack, I'll need to clamp the softer foam to the eps board which would likely distort the foams after being clamped for x hours. I deliberated over whether I should risk it and use hot melt glue since I've used it on foams before and even though it does melt the foam a bit these pieces are pretty thick and by the time the glue cools down it wouldn't have done much damage. I even thought of using industrial adhesive Velcro on both prices and attach it that way but I didn't want the added bulk the loop and hook would create. But this option would've been the quickest and least tedious option. I figured the best options in attaching the EPS board to the softer neoprene foam are: - 3m super 78 foam adhesive (harder to find in Canada and $$$$) - water based contact cement (again a bit harder to find and more expensive than regular solvent based contact cement) What I ended up using was an OLD can of spray 77 that doesn't contain any acetone like thr newer ones. I tested to see if it was still good and surprisingly it was still good even for a 20 year old can lol. I mean in hindsight the thigh boards aren't going to be undergoing much stress in terms of being peeled and pulled from one another. All forces would be direct impact and the boards will be encapsulated inside the pant shell, so maybe I put way too much thought into this 🫠

When I washed my pro stock hp45x pants, I removed the thigh boards and noticed the glue was failing. I'm gonna clean it up and re attach but am having trouble deciding which glue is best. I'm assuming contact cement was used on the factory but I also read that contact cement and other solvent based glues can eat away at EPS foam (the hard foam). Anyone have any advice on what glue to use? Maybe a water based contact cement? I THINK a water based glue could've been used since I noticed the glue from the factory started to gum up a bit when I was washing the pieces of foam separately Tia.