Going from a heel curve to mid - how big of an adjustment?

[Desert 0]

Currently, I'm using a shaft/blade combo with a CCM wood blade Ovechkin curve (regular,not the crazy). I'm looking to jump to a low/mid level one-piece stick and am strongly looking at the Vapor 3.0. The closest curve available to the Ovi is the P92 which is a pure open faced mid curve.

Will this feel/act significantly different?

If it matters, I am a low-level rec league guy. Been playing for about two years and have been using an Ovi curve for the last 18 months. I never take slappers in a game, virtually all wristers and a very small amount of snap shots.

[AIREAYE 248]

What shaft are you using?

Although the Ovechkin should be very similar if not the same to the P92, why not just pick up a blade with the P92 instead of spending more for an entry-level OPS?

edit : most recent CCM Ovechkin

[Kessel'sOversizedSuit 18]

What shaft are you using?

Although the Ovechkin should be very similar if not the same to the P92, why not just pick up a blade with the P92 instead of spending more for an entry-level OPS?

That's a good suggestion. Of course it ignores completely the fun of buying a fancy new twig. Counter-counter point, try the blade, and if you like it, splash out on a proper high end stick!

For what it's worth, I find the P92 (mine is on a One95) to be very open. More so then similar patterns from other companies. Maybe it's just me, or maybe my stick came with an exaggerated pattern, but I find it harder to control. Love the One95 though.

[steelnation248 102]

Currently, I'm using a shaft/blade combo with a CCM wood blade Ovechkin curve (regular,not the crazy). I'm looking to jump to a low/mid level one-piece stick and am strongly looking at the Vapor 3.0. The closest curve available to the Ovi is the P92 which is a pure open faced mid curve.

Will this feel/act significantly different?

If it matters, I am a low-level rec league guy. Been playing for about two years and have been using an Ovi curve for the last 18 months. I never take slappers in a game, virtually all wristers and a very small amount of snap shots.

That Ovechkin pattern is a Drury/P91 clone isn't it? I know they've changed it recently but if you've been using it for over a year, I believe it's the heel wedge. Personally, heel wedges seem to be the only retail curves that I really struggle with. I use P92 clones regularly though. The main difference is probably going to be the actual curve itself. Going from a straighter blade to one with more curve can throw you off. I find it easier to stick handle with a mid curve because I can cup the puck more. Shooting will also take some adjusting because of the larger sweet spot on heel wedges than mid curves. Openness at the toe should be similar.

Who knows, maybe you'll love the Sakic style curves, maybe you'll hate them. Unfortunately none of use can tell you whether you'll like it or not. You just have to try it out for yourself.

Edit: it says heel curve right in the title. My memory sucks apparently. Haha.

[n3gkiwi 1]

I highly recommend trying a blade if possible before splurging on a one piece stick (I'm speaking from experience).

If you're interested in the Vapour 3.0 you should try to find a Bauer wooden blade for your current stick. Similarly you can use a blade chart (from hockey monkey, or hockeydb) for other brands. That way you can figure out what blade you like prior to spending that hard earned money.

Based on experience, I've bought one piece sticks later regretting the blade. While the shaft seemed like it performed well, I never used it properly and ended up giving it away...

[Desert 0]

What shaft are you using?

Although the Ovechkin should be very similar if not the same to the P92, why not just pick up a blade with the P92 instead of spending more for an entry-level OPS?

edit : most recent CCM Ovechkin

I have a Warrior Swizzle shaft. My thought process leading me away from getting a blade towards an entry-level OPS is this. First, I like buying new stuff and with a tax refund coming, I can convince my wife to let me. LOL. Second, and most importantly, I've borrowed some teammates sticks that have low kick-points, and I cannot believe how much better (harder, more accurate, quicker release) my wrist shot is than with my shaft.

[n3gkiwi 1]

Hate to give you more options but why not a new low kick-point shaft AND blade?

[AIREAYE 248]

I have a Warrior Swizzle shaft. My thought process leading me away from getting a blade towards an entry-level OPS is this. First, I like buying new stuff and with a tax refund coming, I can convince my wife to let me. LOL. Second, and most importantly, I've borrowed some teammates sticks that have low kick-points, and I cannot believe how much better (harder, more accurate, quicker release) my wrist shot is than with my shaft.

You probably won't be able to notice the low-kick on the 3.0 very much. It's more the quality of the stick than you. I'm sure you know this too but the Swizzle is a better performing setup than the 3.0. If you have money to spare and want to try a low kickpoint, I recommend what n3gkiwi posted about going to a tapered shaft + tapered blade setup. However, there are not a lot of cheap tapered options out there as most tapered shaft/blades are high end.

Your best bet is to look for older clearout sticks with that curve pattern, but if you can find some good tapered setups on sale, that could trump any pricepoint product anyday.

Hate to give you more options but why not a new low kick-point shaft AND blade?

[Stoop 1]

Ah, so you don't necessarily want to switch to a mid, but you are interested in the Vapor X 3.0, which only comes in P88, PM9, and P92? It looks like the Vapor X 4.0 is available in the P106. If you can squeeze out the money for that, it would probably be more similar to the curve you have now. I know hat's not necessarily a trivial jump in price; also, you could look for some closeout X40s.

I recently went from the heel wedge (P91A) to the P106, and it wasn't a difficult switch. I really like the P106.

[Vet88 674]

Buy yourself a few blades, try some different curves, have fun, blades are cheap by comparison to a ops. It's not hard to swap blades around and if you look on eBay or ask around you can find cheap broken ops's that you can convert to a second/third etc shaft. Find out what curve you really like over the next few months and then hunt for a ops in that curve.

[Desert 0]

Ah, so you don't necessarily want to switch to a mid, but you are interested in the Vapor X 3.0, which only comes in P88, PM9, and P92? It looks like the Vapor X 4.0 is available in the P106. If you can squeeze out the money for that, it would probably be more similar to the curve you have now. I know hat's not necessarily a trivial jump in price; also, you could look for some closeout X40s.

I recently went from the heel wedge (P91A) to the P106, and it wasn't a difficult switch. I really like the P106.

Right. It's not that I necessarily want to switch to the P92, its just the only option that will work for me with the 3.0 (which I am interested in).

You probably won't be able to notice the low-kick on the 3.0 very much. It's more the quality of the stick than you. I'm sure you know this too but the Swizzle is a better performing setup than the 3.0. If you have money to spare and want to try a low kickpoint, I recommend what n3gkiwi posted about going to a tapered shaft + tapered blade setup. However, there are not a lot of cheap tapered options out there as most tapered shaft/blades are high end.

Your best bet is to look for older clearout sticks with that curve pattern, but if you can find some good tapered setups on sale, that could trump any pricepoint product anyday.

Thanks for being a buzz kill dude. LOL. Seriously, this is an interesting point. I equated the more explosive wrist shot (and, I mean it was incredibly noticeable to me) with the kick point, not the quality of the stick.

[n3gkiwi 1]

I would emphasize that - I use an SE16 and get a better wrist shot with that than a Dolomite shaft (which is technically a lower kickpoint).

And there's still a lot of fun in looking for a shaft or blade. It's true you will likely get better performance with a one piece but what good will it be if you can't play with the blade?

[Stoop 1]

Buy yourself a few blades, try some different curves, have fun, blades are cheap by comparison to a ops. It's not hard to swap blades around and if you look on eBay or ask around you can find cheap broken ops's that you can convert to a second/third etc shaft. Find out what curve you really like over the next few months and then hunt for a ops in that curve.

I'm not going to argue with you guys who are suggesting he try a few blades; that's the best advice and it took me a while to learn it. But I'm not sure if it really applies to someone who already has a curve he likes, and who is trying to convince the wife that he should buy a $70 stick. Trying even two $20 wood blades eats right into that. He may need to pick a similar curve and adjust to it more than we would like, but that's probably the reality of the price range. Unless he's got friends with different curves that he can try.

[Desert 0]

I'm not going to argue with you guys who are suggesting he try a few blades; that's the best advice and it took me a while to learn it. But I'm not sure if it really applies to someone who already has a curve he likes, and who is trying to convince the wife that he should buy a $70 stick. Trying even two $20 wood blades eats right into that. He may need to pick a similar curve and adjust to it more than we would like, but that's probably the reality of the price range. Unless he's got friends with different curves that he can try.

Just to clarify, money isn't really an issue for me. The comment about my wife was just a joke. The issue is my skill level which doesn't justify buying high-end stuff. I bought the Swizzle shaft right after I started playing again with the thought that I would buy a bunch of blades to try. As it happens, the 2nd blade I tried (the first was an Iginla) was the Ovi curve and I like it. A buddy of mine had a pro-stock Easton (not sure of the model but it was purchased from the Coyotes so I assume top of the line) that had the exact same curve and lie as my shaft/blade combo. The wrist shots flew off that thing and I could really feel the stick flex. I don't feel the flex with my shaft at all. My assumption was that it had to do with the kick point, but I'm guessing my assumption was wrong based on this thread.

[AIREAYE 248]

Haha not trying to be a buzzkill, just the facts and options, but you seem to have picked up on them well enough.

[n3gkiwi 1]

if you do go with a one piece use this:

http://www.hockeygiant.com/player-stick-blade-pattern-charts.html

That way if you get a curve from another brand you at least know you can get something similar (same curve and lie)...

[hockeymass 11]

Just to clarify, money isn't really an issue for me. The comment about my wife was just a joke. The issue is my skill level which doesn't justify buying high-end stuff. I bought the Swizzle shaft right after I started playing again with the thought that I would buy a bunch of blades to try. As it happens, the 2nd blade I tried (the first was an Iginla) was the Ovi curve and I like it. A buddy of mine had a pro-stock Easton (not sure of the model but it was purchased from the Coyotes so I assume top of the line) that had the exact same curve and lie as my shaft/blade combo. The wrist shots flew off that thing and I could really feel the stick flex. I don't feel the flex with my shaft at all. My assumption was that it had to do with the kick point, but I'm guessing my assumption was wrong based on this thread.

If you want to buy good stuff, who cares what your skill level is? I'm by no means an allstar, but I bought a Vapor APX because f--k it, it's my money and I wanted to.

[Stoop 1]

Just to clarify, money isn't really an issue for me. The comment about my wife was just a joke. The issue is my skill level which doesn't justify buying high-end stuff. I bought the Swizzle shaft right after I started playing again with the thought that I would buy a bunch of blades to try. As it happens, the 2nd blade I tried (the first was an Iginla) was the Ovi curve and I like it. A buddy of mine had a pro-stock Easton (not sure of the model but it was purchased from the Coyotes so I assume top of the line) that had the exact same curve and lie as my shaft/blade combo. The wrist shots flew off that thing and I could really feel the stick flex. I don't feel the flex with my shaft at all. My assumption was that it had to do with the kick point, but I'm guessing my assumption was wrong based on this thread.

Sorry, didn't mean to imply that you were money-challenged; just that some people have different (smarter) priorities. Lord knows I haven't let my skill level dictate my gear. But if money isn't an issue, that moves the question: Is it worth it for a low-level beer leaguer (I'm assuming -- and that's what I am) to pay more and make the jump from that $70 X 3.0 to the $100-120 price point. I kinda think it might be, but others here know better than me. Lot of choices in that range, and most available in open heels. All the more so if you find some closeouts.

[n3gkiwi 1]

Sorry, didn't mean to imply that you were money-challenged; just that some people have different (smarter) priorities. Lord knows I haven't let my skill level dictate my gear. But if money isn't an issue, that moves the question: Is it worth it for a low-level beer leaguer (I'm assuming -- and that's what I am) to pay more and make the jump from that $70 X 3.0 to the $100-120 price point. I kinda think it might be, but others here know better than me. Lot of choices in that range, and most available in open heels. All the more so if you find some closeouts.

I think we were also emphasizing not paying for something you may not like due to the curve/lie... Just giving my experience for example I bought a Dolomite a few years back with the Iginla curve (coming from a Sakic). Did not like the curve at all. I could easily play with it but I didn't like it and ended up wasting $250... I know the stick was good because I got a better curve in it later that year. Just trying to help someone avoid the same mistake I made thinking I could get use to a curve when I couldn't - but I'm sure others could have.

[Desert 0]

Really appreciate all the insight guys. But, I still never got my original question answered...LOL. Will there be a significant difference between the Ovi open faced heel curve and the P92 open faced mid curve?

One other question. Compairing the quality of the Vapor x3.0 ($70) vs. the CCM 08 ($70) sticks. Is the Bauer clearly better? Because, if not, and if I decide on the one-piece route, then I should probably get the CCM with the Ovi curve.

[flyers10 57]

I'd think the heel curve you have now will have a bit bigger sweet spot for you, good for deflections too. The open-mid will allow you to cup the puck for stick handling, easier toe drags. With the heel curve you need to make sure you roll your wrists over well on wristers. The mid & toe curves let you be a bit lazier I think on that. If your gonna spend $70 I'd go up to $99 cause they are some nice price points sticks at that level.

[n3gkiwi 1]

Really appreciate all the insight guys. But, I still never got my original question answered...LOL. Will there be a significant difference between the Ovi open faced heel curve and the P92 open faced mid curve?

I currently play with the P92 Backstrom... It's definitely not a heel curve. If anything, mine looks like a mid-toe curve. But I have never played with the OV curve. Hopefully below can show the difference. Left OV and right Backstrom (from hockeygiant).

As others have said you will be able to cup the puck better with the Backstrom (P92) however your shots and passes will differ. The open mid-toe curve can be a little wild when first learning to shoot with it... But I think that is the case with the heel curves so you and me are opposites.

Opps... also the lie is 5.5 (OV) compared to 6 (P92).

[innotastic 12]

the two curves are pretty different.

the ovi wedge is a lower lie (lower than other drury clones, but just slightly) in teh same ballpark as the old reebok spezzas (the new phaneuf is a true drury clone). sherwood ryan curves are close to ovi wedges but doesnt open up as much.

the p92 is also a mid toe which will have entirley differnet shooting mechanics compared to the open wedge. it will take you a while to get used to. me personally i use 'true' wrist shot technique using the drury, whereas when i use a p92 i basically fall on the blade and just snap it.

if i remember correctly, the ovi wedge is slightly shorter than drury, but its still significantly longer than a p92, this will affect puck handling.

saucer passes with a p92 will take a while to get used to, its kinda like a flick versus a sliding motion with a drury.

im gonna say using a two piece with wood blade probably has quite a bit to do with your wrist shot. 18 months by now the blade is probaly broken down and soft as a sponge. OPS (and composite shaft combos) have the benefit of being a bit more durable.

[Desert 0]

OK, so as luck would have it, I had a (expensive) personal issue come up that is severely limiting by ability to buy what I want. It's left me with two less than perfect choices, but I need to select one of them. I currently have a Warrior Swizzle shaft that is in great shape, but it is a 100 flex and way to stiff for me. (I relied on the advice of an LHS that I no longer go to due to getting bad advice on many things). I need a new blade. Here is my choice, do I spend the money on a blade for a shaft that is way too stiff for me, or do I buy a low end $50 OPS that will have the right flex for me? Like I said, a crappy choice.

[flyers10 57]

I'd look into finding something slightly used on craigslist or ebay. Can find good deals on 75/85 flex shafts and buy blade locally or find that lightly used OPS for $50-60.