How much do you spend on sticks and related opinions

[pghdev 1]

I'm sure there have been lots of discussion within other topics about this, but I'd like some fresh and dedicated opinions from those in the know.

I've been playing for over 40 years and have used the top of the line models (primarily Easton) for the last 15+. My problem has always been that I break them constantly. I'm lucky to go 4 or 5 games before I break one. I shoot very hard (in the mid 90s), and for a few years I almost refused to shoot because I didn't want to break sticks. Now I shoot regularly but spend 2-3K a year on sticks. I've tried to go down to the lower end models, but they never feel right (yeah, a lot of it is in my head), but they feel heavy, awkward and I always go back to the top end models, unfortunately.

My questions are.. do any of you have similar issues and what has your experience/performance been if you have forced yourself to go to lower end models? I'm sure if I just forced myself to use a $100 stick instead of a $200+ model I'd eventually get used to it, but man, they feel different now. (I almost want to force myself back into the old 5030s, but I used to break those like way more often).

I was using Makos for a bit, then bought an M5 to save some bucks, but it felt so different, heavy and awkward that I bagged it after a few minutes and went back to the top model. For those that have bounced back and forth with similar troubles, what are your thoughts? Should I suck it up and just go lower end or are there really such distinct advantages with the top models that my "feeling" is actually well founded?

[Beleafer 14]

You should buy pro stock and in bulk. Will save you some money in the long run.

[Chadd 916]

I used to break sticks a lot more frequently but due to elbow problems and hurting too many teammates in front of the net, I changed my game a bit to just take more wrist shots.

You should buy pro stock and in bulk. Will save you some money in the long run.

The problem is getting the same curve and flex in any significant quantity, let alone when you need them.

[Stewie 721]

i would definitely try some closeouts of previous top models, but going further than that, have you tried out any sherwoods? their top models get good reviews from people on here generally especially the T series, and they seem to offer a good balance of performance, durability, and price.

currently im using a diablo, and a miken z9. I like the diablo even though its not a top end, and got it for 99 bones on a clearance.

[pghdev 1]

I haven't tried anything other than Easton in a long, long time, but it may be time to force myself back into lower end models.

Pro stock would be nice, but I'm always concerned about the flex & patterns (so I save $100, but then don't have the warranty and am potentially back to square one with it not feeling right).

One thing I haven't tried is a two-piece, but the cost of that is high, as well for a top end model, even though I'd only have to replace the shaft or blade, as opposed to the entire stick (saves some in the long run), but how much different is the feel of the same top-end two-piece verses the one-piece?

Maybe I'll try the M5 or EQ40 laying in my shed again and see if I can get this idea that I can't play with them out of my head. (That and a psychiatrist would probably help) *grin*

[IPv6Freely 2093]

I usually buy one step below the top model for sticks (eg. RBZ100 instead of the Stage 2). I just can't justify $250 for beer league.

I'd go the pro stock route if I could find a pro that used intermediate sticks ;)

[MrData 93]

Get a Sher-Wood T90. High-end stick, only $130, and one of the most durable sticks out there. I recommended it to a friend who always snapped his CCM U+10s in half, and he's had it for about a year. He said the shaft shape took some getting used to, but he loves it.

[pghdev 1]

Get a Sher-Wood T90. High-end stick, only $130, and one of the most durable sticks out there. I recommended it to a friend who always snapped his CCM U+10s in half, and he's had it for about a year. He said the shaft shape took some getting used to, but he loves it.

Thank you, very much, for the suggestion. After looking at reviews of these I'm going to order one now and give it a shot. Do you know if the flex is comparable to the Easton flex? (I don't trust that a Sher-wood flex translates exactly to an Easton rating without someone with first-hand knowledge confirming)

The biggest thing that throws me off, I believe, is weight difference. The Mako vs M5, for example, had a difference of around 70 grams, and maybe that's why I felt it was so sluggish and awkward to me when I tried it. The T90 supposedly weighs around 470 grams, which is only about 20 grams heavier than the Makos/Mako IIs I've been using.. I'm on a V9 right now that I bought a few days ago, so the T90 seems like a pretty nice monthly savings, if I can get used to it.

[Stewie 721]

the t100 might even out the weight difference even more, also

[MrData 93]

the t100 might even out the weight difference even more, also

True. If you're looking for a really high-end stick, the T100 definitely fits the bill. I've heard several people say they prefer the T100 to their previous top-end Bauer, Easton, or Reebok sticks. Of course, it's going to be closer to the price of a clearance or pro-stock stick at $180, but if you really want maximum performance out of your stick, it may be worth the extra cost.

Then again, I'm sure you could get used to the T90. It may not be as cutting-edge as the T100, but it can still hang with the Bauer/Reebok/Easton/CCM/Warrior 'big boys' if you ask me.

[jimmy 194]

Or a pro stock that isn't xtra stiff. IMO prostocks are usually the wrong flex for the average player. I get a kick over one of the shops near me who pushes pro stocks on 12 yr olds or beginners who can barely get off a wrist shot.

I usually buy one step below the top model for sticks (eg. RBZ100 instead of the Stage 2). I just can't justify $250 for beer league.

I'd go the pro stock route if I could find a pro that used intermediate sticks ;)

[chippa13 1844]

I usually buy one step below the top model for sticks (eg. RBZ100 instead of the Stage 2). I just can't justify $250 for beer league.

I'd go the pro stock route if I could find a pro that used intermediate sticks ;)

If you're a righty then Kessel is your man.

[IPv6Freely 2093]

Or a pro stock that isn't xtra stiff. IMO prostocks are usually the wrong flex for the average player. I get a kick over one of the shops near me who pushes pro stocks on 12 yr olds or beginners who can barely get off a wrist shot.

Yea I'm sure. Hell the first stick I ever bought before I had any idea what flex was was a 102, then cut 3 inches off of it. I still amuse myself by how little I can flex it no matter how hard I try. But yea, that's why I'm using an intermediate now. I'm terrible at shooting (bad wrist shot, nonexistent slap shot) so a lot of flex helps me out.

If you're a righty then Kessel is your man.

Isnt he a Senior 75? I usually use 65, 67, 70 intermediate.

I don't know if saving a few bucks is worth all the time I'd spend trying to get all that tape residue off :P