Skate Sharpening Tips Needed

[Hawaii 0]

We just started using the X02 5/8 ROH with no prior sharpening experience. We are looking for advice on these issues:

1. We occasionally get waves running down the length of the blade. What causes this and how do we fix this problem?

2. We occasionally get a little "dent" in the front of the skate. We sharpen toe to heel. We do a 4 passes to 1 full pass ratio.

3. How precise do you need to be when measuring the evenness of edges? Being perfectionists we try to get the top and bottom edge measurements right on the middle line (5th line) all the way across. We measure toe, middle and heel. Sometimes the top line measurement with the butterfly gauge will be at the top of the 5th line and the bottom line measurement will be at the bottom of the 5th line, pretty close but not perfect.

4. So my son skated on his skates after we sharpened them. Even though we had what we thought were even edges, enough passes, fine shine final pass, no burrs, no waves or dents and redressing for each blade, he said the sharpening was "fair" and "maybe not sharp enough". So, do we do more passes? apply more pressure per pass? do more of a wheel dress (right now we do a "puff")?

Thanks for any input! We are excited about learning how to get an excellent sharpening.

[JoshV 20]

Hard to tell from your description, but it sounds like your biggest problem comes from not dressing the wheel properly.

Take your time when dressing the wheel. A couple long, slow passes until it feels smooth (You can feel this through the quill)

This should take care of the waves, and improve the feel of the sharpening.

The dent is probably coming from pausing. Are you sharpening back and forth? Or just one-way passes?

You should be precise as possible when squaring the edges. Using a gauge like the BR100 will get you optimal results. Very easy to use.

On your final pass, you want to make sure you use even pressure, and an even tempo the whole length of the blade.

Using light pressure, go as slow as possible, without pausing (Hesitation marks will be left if you do so). This part takes the longest to learn properly, IMO.

I use a polishing compound by Blademaster before my final pass to get the best finish.

Learning to put square edges can be taught in a day, but to master sharpening takes thousands of pairs to do so. There's always room for improvement.

Have fun, it is a great feeling of accomplishment once you really learn how to sharpen skates!

[shoot_the_goalie 281]

We just started using the X02 5/8 ROH with no prior sharpening experience. We are looking for advice on these issues:

1. We occasionally get waves running down the length of the blade. What causes this and how do we fix this problem?

2. We occasionally get a little "dent" in the front of the skate. We sharpen toe to heel. We do a 4 passes to 1 full pass ratio.

3. How precise do you need to be when measuring the evenness of edges? Being perfectionists we try to get the top and bottom edge measurements right on the middle line (5th line) all the way across. We measure toe, middle and heel. Sometimes the top line measurement with the butterfly gauge will be at the top of the 5th line and the bottom line measurement will be at the bottom of the 5th line, pretty close but not perfect.

4. So my son skated on his skates after we sharpened them. Even though we had what we thought were even edges, enough passes, fine shine final pass, no burrs, no waves or dents and redressing for each blade, he said the sharpening was "fair" and "maybe not sharp enough". So, do we do more passes? apply more pressure per pass? do more of a wheel dress (right now we do a "puff")?

Thanks for any input! We are excited about learning how to get an excellent sharpening.

responses:

1) your sharpening passes are probably too slow. They should be fairly quick, even, and fluid. The finishing passes should be longer. Also, stick with one direction.

2) little "dents" are somewhat normal at the extreme fronts and ends, just cause that's where the wheel is stopping/ending. If you're getting indentations anywhere else, means you're not making even passes.

3) If you're using the BatGage, as long as you're within one "click", you're pretty close to perfect. Each click is representative of one thousandth of an inch.

4) could be the dressing of the wheel, could be personal preference... ask him to be more descriptive...are the edges not biting enough? etc... Could just be he may prefer a different type of edge.

[Hawaii 0]

Thanks Josh and STG! We appreciate your expertise! I especially like what you said about how learning to put square edges can be taught in a day, but to master sharpening takes thousands of pairs to do so. How true!

1. How do you prevent changing the profile of the skate while sharpening? We sharpen toe to heel. We do a 4/1 ratio of flat part of the skate/entire skate blade.

2. We are using the butterfly gauge. Each line on the butterfly (there are 7 lines) represents 0.001 inch. Each line on the butterfly gauge represents 2 clicks on the holder knob to adjust. We have a maximum edge quick square on order. I think there are even more lines on this edge checker. The bladmaster br100 is out of stock until end of november. What does each line of the max edge quick square represent? How many clicks would we need to adjust on the X12 tri-lie holder for the max edge checker?

Thanks!

[strosedefence34 176]

Bumping an old thread

Recently I started working at my LHS and started sharpening skates. I do my own skates and they come out pretty good for the first ice time then after that I feel like they need to be sharpened again. I usually skate on a 5/8ths. I am good at leveling out the edges so thats not my problem. Its just my sharpening never feels as deep as it should be.

I finally was able to get some feed back from someones skates I did a few weeks ago. He wanted them at 3/8ths so I sharpened them made sure the edges where level, de-burred them and I usually run my finger down to make sure I can feel a hollow and check the edges before I deem them done. He said since I did his skates he brought them back to the shop and had them done again because he skated a bunch and someone else did them and he said the 3/8ths he go from my co-worker felt much sharper. My coworker has been doing this a lot longer than I have so I know I am the problem.

I am assuming my issue is pressure, and I am not putting enough on the holder. When I first did it I was putting too much on to the point where the skate would get stuck on the wheel and leave burn marks and I would have to do a few passes to get them out. Even if the skate didn't get stuck the steel didn't look right.

I could not tell you what kind of sharpener we have or holder other then they are blade master. We don't dress the wheel with the traditional diamond we use the form dressing rolls (http://blademaster.com/web/en/2589-form-dressing-rolls-conventional-radius). When I sharpen I sharpen heel to toe and usually do between 8-12 passes on each skate depending on how level the edges are.

My questions are

1- How much pressure should you be putting on the skates to get the correct hollow? - I know this may be a tough one to describe in a form.

2- Is it best to do a 4/1 ratio like discussed above not to banana the steal or should I do full passes?

3- How many passes do you guys do on each skate before you dream it "done"? - I know this sometimes depends on the skate but I am looking for an estimate.

Thanks in advance for the help.

[Chadd 916]

My questions are

1- How much pressure should you be putting on the skates to get the correct hollow? - I know this may be a tough one to describe in a form.

2- Is it best to do a 4/1 ratio like discussed above not to banana the steal or should I do full passes?

3- How many passes do you guys do on each skate before you dream it "done"? - I know this sometimes depends on the skate but I am looking for an estimate.

Thanks in advance for the help.

1. There's no way to tell you a specific amount that you can measure. Just go with a little more pressure than you use now and see how that feels on your skates. it sounds like you are able to feel the difference in your own skates. Just make sure you don't burn the steel or overheat it.

2. I almost never go around the corner on the toe or heel. I start just prior to where the skate flattens out and lift off around the same place at the other end.

3. I make sure I am past the nicks and chips in the steel and never count the actual number of passes. At a minimum, I usually do 8-10 and no less than four once I am past any problems with the steel.

[strosedefence34 176]

1. There's no way to tell you a specific amount that you can measure. Just go with a little more pressure than you use now and see how that feels on your skates. it sounds like you are able to feel the difference in your own skates. Just make sure you don't burn the steel or overheat it.

2. I almost never go around the corner on the toe or heel. I start just prior to where the skate flattens out and lift off around the same place at the other end.

3. I make sure I am past the nicks and chips in the steel and never count the actual number of passes. At a minimum, I usually do 8-10 and no less than four once I am past any problems with the steel.

Thanks Chadd. I know I just need practice. I will try increasing the pressure I am putting on the holder next time I sharpen mine.

[blackout 4]

I just started sharpening my own with a Wissota. Couldn't be happier. I am a serious perfectionist though and am mechanically inclined.

Perhaps you aren't exposing completely new steel? The way I make sure the wheel is grinding the entire blade is by marking a few spots on the hollow with a sharpie. Then do only one pass, and if the marks are completely gone from the surface of the hollow, then you've exposed completely new steel. However, if the edges are not level, and you have to adjust after doing the marks, then you will need to do the marks again since you made an adjustment to the holder. What I do is get my edges as level as I can, then put the marks on and do one pass. If the marks vanish after that single pass, then I do a finish pass.

For what it is worth, I always grind with the wheel, and never against. It is much easier to maintain a consistent speed when going with the wheel (at least for me it is).

Also, is "your" 3/8" grind the same as your coworkers? If I were you, I would watch where he sets the diamond for dressing, as it might be slightly different than where you set it. I know that personally, even 1/16" difference in hollow is extremely noticeable for me. I use 9/16, and going to 5/8 is too big of a jump for me. So a difference in hollow even less than 1/16 could very well explain your issue, all because of a slightly different radius set with the diamond.

[strosedefence34 176]

I just started sharpening my own with a Wissota. Couldn't be happier. I am a serious perfectionist though and am mechanically inclined.

Perhaps you aren't exposing completely new steel? The way I make sure the wheel is grinding the entire blade is by marking a few spots on the hollow with a sharpie. Then do only one pass, and if the marks are completely gone from the surface of the hollow, then you've exposed completely new steel. However, if the edges are not level, and you have to adjust after doing the marks, then you will need to do the marks again since you made an adjustment to the holder. What I do is get my edges as level as I can, then put the marks on and do one pass. If the marks vanish after that single pass, then I do a finish pass.

For what it is worth, I always grind with the wheel, and never against. It is much easier to maintain a consistent speed when going with the wheel (at least for me it is).

Also, is "your" 3/8" grind the same as your coworkers? If I were you, I would watch where he sets the diamond for dressing, as it might be slightly different than where you set it. I know that personally, even 1/16" difference in hollow is extremely noticeable for me. I use 9/16, and going to 5/8 is too big of a jump for me. So a difference in hollow even less than 1/16 could very well explain your issue, all because of a slightly different radius set with the diamond.

I appreciate the tips. I will have to try the sharpie method when I do my skates next.

I do grind with the wheel I just put the skates on the holder with the heel to toe and sharpen that way.

My 3/8ths grind is the same as my coworkers because we don't use a diamond dresser we use form dressing wheels. I posted the link in my original post but to describe them its a series of wheels that have different hollows on them. We have one wheel for each hollow. We put the wheel on its holder and lock the holder to the bench and move the dressing wheel to the grinding wheel to set the hollow.

[strosedefence34 176]

2. I almost never go around the corner on the toe or heel. I start just prior to where the skate flattens out and lift off around the same place at the other end.

Would you say these arrows show where you start and end?

[Chadd 916]

yeah. pretty close to that. I do a little more around the toe, especially if there is damage to the edges. However, I never make the turn to where the steel is vertical (as opposed to horizontal) in the pic.

[strosedefence34 176]

So I did my skates this morning before I got on the ice. They felt better with more pressure. I do think that I need to go deeper though. 5/8ths just doesn't seem deep enough anymore.

[isk8byu 4]

Does anyone have any advice on honing the sides of mirrored runners so that they don't get all scratched up (e.g. step steel and figure skates)?

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

Does anyone have any advice on honing the sides of mirrored runners so that they don't get all scratched up (e.g. step steel and figure skates)?

Yes dont hone them. Use a leather pad!

[mickz 107]

Does anyone have any advice on honing the sides of mirrored runners so that they don't get all scratched up (e.g. step steel and figure skates)?

I can't hone the sides of my Black Edge steel either so I just lightly feather a Y-Stick over top. The steel doesn't burr much to begin with but I'll just hold the skate with the blades up and use no pressure with the Y-Stick. I hold it with my thumb and index finger and let gravity do its job as I make one pass.