strosedefence34

Yeah, I am thinking that may be the best corse of action having the shop do the first sharpening or just using an old wheel until I establish some sort of an edge. Chances are I am either going to buy steel from the shop I worked for or from JR to support MSH so I trust them to do the first sharpening.

Thanks for the responses this will help. I remembered my other question new steel. What do you guys do about that? Since I can't cross grind it. Do you have the shop you buy it from cross grind it but don't sharpen? Have them sharpen? or do you just sharpen it and take a bunch of passes?

I know this thread is about Flat-Bottom V but there seems to be a lot of X02 owners in here. I just recently picked one up second hand and I have a couple of questions. I have been sharpening on a double head unit blade master with the blade master spinner system for the last 5 or so years so I am not new to sharpening just to Blackstone and the X02. 1- When installing the mini spinner which side is up and which side is down? This is what the manual says "1) Slip the internal bearing in the mini spinner over the spinner screw until it contacts the spinner screw knob. Be certain to install the mini spinner so that the snap ring inside the mini spinner is visible; when the spinner screw is viewed from the threaded end." but I still don't know which side has the snap ring. Is it the side that has the hollow etched in it or not? Basically which side do I put down towards the ground when installing the etched hallow side or the other side? 2- do any of you put anything like wax on the table for a better glide? Mine is in really good shape for it being second hand. I just never had to maintain the sharpener where I worked. I just kind of showed up and did my thing. 3- there was a third but I can't think of it right now. Any other tips you X02 owners have for me? That would be awesome.

https://imgur.com/o6Th08E Very excited about this pick up. If anyone has any tips for using it or dust collection I would appreciate it. I am used to a big double head blade master.

@Eesh this isn’t my sale but I saw this https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/sticks/shafts/1725125-easton-used-shaft

Agreed

Hey every team needs a thumper!

I wear supreme skates and my laces pretty much up the entire skate I just take the slack out of them and then at the last two eyelets I pull them tighter I don't crank on them loop them once flex my foot forward so I can get some forward flex and then finish tying them off. On a scale of loose to cranked my skate lacing would be snug. With a proper fitting skate you shouldn't have to crank down on the laces at all.

When baking skates you want them to be snug but you don't want them to be overly tight. Don't crank down on the laces or pull them so tight because you can do damage to the eyelets and the surrounding areas.

$200 price point should be fine but no insole custom or not will fix a skate that is too big. It is important to get the sizing down before investing in insoles. Like I said if you have a shop that has a Bauer or CCM scanner get scanned and take that as a starting point or go with the ice warehouse tracing method. You want your toes to feather to the toe cap but not be scrunched.

If you're on a budget and this also sort of depends on your size I wouldn't go lower than the $200 price point IE Bauer VaporX2.7, Bauer Supreme S27, Bauer Nexus N2700, CCM RibCor 74K, CCM Jetspeeed FT460, CCM Tacks 9060. All of these are around the same price now it is a matter of finding which ones are the most comfortable. Try finding a shop in your area that stocks these and try them on walk around in each pair and go with the ones that fit the best out of the box. Make sure you take into account how a skate is suppose to fit. If your local shop has a Bauer or CCM foot scanner that is a good starting point if not this link is also a pretty good starting point https://www.icewarehouse.com/lc/skates/how-to-find-your-skate-size-at-home.html . If you're a bigger person you may need to increase you budget to get a skate with some better materials and to offer more support but in my opinion if you're average sized the $200 level is a good budget price point for hockey playing.

2

It is kind of a bummer that the different choices in curves are going the way of the dodo. The nice thing is with proper technique you really can learn to use any curve. Like I said I only use the P88 but have tried the other 2 and with a few minutes to adjust to a P92 or P28 I could easily use them as well if I had to. I am just so comfortable with the P88 and it is still available so why switch it has worked for the past 20ish years for me so I don't see a point. Good luck in your search.

I recommend sticking within the 3 curves that are available P92, P88, P28. If you're buying any sticks with "dead curves" if you fall in love with them you're just going to have a hell of a time trying to find replacements down the road. For a beginner I'd recommend the P92 or P88 both offer pros and cons. Personally I have used the P88 since I was a little kid and have tried the P92 and the P28 but always go back to the P88 it just works for me.