colins 246 Report post Posted August 19, 2019 For the SB or E-Pro holder experts out there - is there a torque spec for tightening the screw/nut on those when swapping steel? I always cranked them pretty tight assuming that the are designed to bottom out on the depth of the screw, but is that actually the case? If you're just using a short screwdriver you're kind of limited anyways, but with a 8mm socket is there a risk of over-tightening and damaging the plastic in the holder? Bonus question - why do some pros like Crosby and like in the recent Subban locker room pic prefer the E-Pro over the SB 4.0? Is it noticeably stiffer? Also a different height, right? Just something they are used to as opposed to a clear performance issue? colins Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
caveman27 208 Report post Posted August 20, 2019 I use blue Loctite thread locker on the threads. I tighten as much as I can, but I just feel when it is tightened enough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3801 Report post Posted August 20, 2019 Hand tight is best. It's easier now that the screw was redesigned - the original PL3 screw didn't have the lip on the end, so it was really easy to sink it into the holder. You're just going to have to come to grips that the screws will loosen up (as they're side-loaded and don't lock into the holder itself, so impact/vibration gets them loose) and that you'll have to tighten them constantly. E-Pro is indeed softer and shorter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
colins 246 Report post Posted August 20, 2019 2 hours ago, JR Boucicaut said: Hand tight is best. It's easier now that the screw was redesigned - the original PL3 screw didn't have the lip on the end, so it was really easy to sink it into the holder. You're just going to have to come to grips that the screws will loosen up (as they're side-loaded and don't lock into the holder itself, so impact/vibration gets them loose) and that you'll have to tighten them constantly. E-Pro is indeed softer and shorter. Ok, I've been using the blue loctite but I think I'm over cranking them with the T socket driver I've been using. I noticed it seems to cause the plastic by the runner to flare out ever so slightly from the steel right above the screws if you go too tight. colins 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stick9 891 Report post Posted August 20, 2019 @colins careful with the locktite. Some variants will actually eat away at plastics. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
colins 246 Report post Posted August 21, 2019 3 hours ago, stick9 said: @colins careful with the locktite. Some variants will actually eat away at plastics. Good advice to be careful with applying it. The CCM screws come with blue loctite from the factory. The loctite isn't exposed to the plastic, unless you put on a big blob and it seeps out from the threads/nut. Just requires a small touch, worked into the threads, and only if the factory stuff has worn off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3801 Report post Posted August 21, 2019 21 hours ago, colins said: Ok, I've been using the blue loctite but I think I'm over cranking them with the T socket driver I've been using. I noticed it seems to cause the plastic by the runner to flare out ever so slightly from the steel right above the screws if you go too tight. colins Yep, that's too much if you're bowing the plastic. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giltis 116 Report post Posted August 21, 2019 14 hours ago, stick9 said: @colins careful with the locktite. Some variants will actually eat away at plastics. Great advice. This has happened to me before in other application. A tiny bit is all you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
