Giltis

Yeah I mean the first one of theirs I got for the SB4.0 was impossible to sharpen and keep an edge on. It was like nothing else I tried. Hard to get an edge on and hard to keep an edge on, worst of both worlds. Tydan is having a timely prostock sale right now if you’re into it.

Yeah so it's been like 3 months on the newer ones and they are good. It's hard to say one way or another objectively, my thighs burn less? But it could be me just getting better with my better conditioning. I think they will last me awhile as I'm mostly coaching now and not playing as much as I used to. Would I get them again? Mayhaps

I ended up getting it on my player skates and I quite like them. Unfortunately I ran into an issue when I got them for the old holder SB4.0, the blade would not hold an edge (I still have the blades somewhere). I ended up swapping the holders and trying them one more time.

One explanation that I heard was that the gloves back then were very oversized, heavy, and didn't have any internal strappings. So if you were to keep it flexed back like how you are supposed to now it would slowly creep out of position and because the gloves were heavy it wasn't comfortable to do so anyway.

They are pretty different in terms of feel. They do chip and crack at the holders if you play a lot of high level, which is pretty much impossible to repair from what I understand. They also howl when you brake, which some can't stand (which I kinda love), and they come with 4mm, which some don't like at all. Folks who get them like how stiff they are and how lower than most it feels (not sure if it actually is).

Metallic helmets are a bit ick, except for when that Euro league used to do it for their scoring leader. That was cool. I don't like matte helmets either, I don't know why. I'm turning into an old man maybe.

I have both a TF9 and a True Custom, the TF9 is a goalie skate and the Custom is a player skate. I had gotten the Custom when it was the only option, and hesitated going back to retail fit but my skate guy at ensured me that he was confident about fitting me in a TF9. TF9 took about a month to really break in even after a proper wrapped heat mold, at first I thought I had made a mistake but two games in and they were 80% there, and six games in and they felt pretty good with zero pains (except for 1 issue which turned out to be my fault entirely). I still prefer a Custom but the TF9 is pretty close. My feet have a half size difference too. I think I will get whatever replaces the TF9 if these ones fail.

yeah show us a pic of your weird knob

You're not wrapping the laces around your ankle are you? Either way, just start from scratch as they are new skates with new geometry. Just lace them up normal, and then experiment with one thing at a time. I would try normal, then skipping the top eyelet. Although I am having trouble what you are wanting. Do you want more forward flex or less? Also if you want more flexion, your skate tongue might need breaking in too which will come with time.

Yeah I have the clear plastic one because of the True blade spike, and it's a bit hard to ensure that the blades are sitting properly at the toe.

You're going through exactly what I went through ~7 years ago with my CCMs, I almost hung them up because my feet would be numb and needing to deal with constant blisters. I tried different socks, footbeds, lacing methods and whatnot, and some days I would skate without pain, but then the next game it'd be worse. Got them punched twice by professionals, but because of the way my arch collapsed it was impossible to pin point exactly where I needed to get punched, if anything the first punch made it worse because afterwards the bottom of that punch would rub harder whenever I put weight on my feet as my arch collapsed. In the end, I got custom Trues although my next skate purchase after that were non-custom TF9s as they had better moldability (they are comfy but not as comfy as my customs of course). I really hope it goes better for you, but you may have to go custom if it doesn't work, or at least have a look at non-custom Trues and have them baked by a reputable store.

This is probably the best idea if you are going to keep the skates long term (and if the skates were expensive). But in the end when you skate, that area is going to go through a lot of stress while flexing and for that the blockers will not be able to stop any of the force. I don't know 100%, but I have heard that like @Sniper9 said punching out modern skates is quite different than how it used to be, and it's more about compressing the inside foams than pushing out the outside.

So this is what I'm using to sharpen loose blades https://ca.sparxhockey.com/collections/accessories-es300/products/universal-blade-holder I'm not a huge fan of it, it's a bit flimsy and kinda hard to get my blade to sit properly. Are there any other choices for True Shift blade? I know VT Sharp sells an incredible looking one, but they're in EU and the cost/shipping is just too much.

So my Sparx gen 3 is here and the machine is incredible. I tried the BEAM, but the machine didn't need any adjusting. I've done about 8 pairs of skates/blades now and all are within .001 of an inch or perfect. Four have hit the ice so far and they all have reported perfect feeling edges. I came home after a game one night saw that I had a super minor nick from a post, did one pass and then played the next night. I've had a few issues figuring out how to deburr properly and everyone does it differently but I think I have my technique down. I may introduce Chromium Oxide for the last step, I dunno though, probably overkill. Wipe down the blade with towel Run the gummy/regular stone flat along the side Leather block at an angle Leather block flat along the blade Wipe down the blade with leather chamois

I have both of these and I don't like them either, that top one folds oddly making creases that feel weird at times. The second one doesn't fold well at all and is too stiff causing a rebound when I flex down.