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JAY4114

P28 vs P88

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What makes the P28 more of a shooters curve than the P88? According to most of the curve charts, p88 is deeper and more accurate, but a lot of people say toe curves are the most accurate. I know that the p28 is easier to lift the puck and is for snap shots, but how are slap shots and one timers? Also how do closed/opened faces as well as curve depth effect shot power and accuracy?

Edited by JAY4114

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More marketing gobbledygook.  No curve is a shooter's curve.  The curve that best matches your preferred technique is the best shooter's curve for you.  I can shoot equally well with just about any curve, and certainly all the popular retail options.  The difference is in how much I have to concentrate on different types of shots with each curve.  For example, a P28 or P29 requires less wrist rotation to hit the top corner in comparison to a P88.

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2 hours ago, boo10 said:

More marketing gobbledygook.  No curve is a shooter's curve.  The curve that best matches your preferred technique is the best shooter's curve for you.  

Agree w/boo10 completely.  Different curves definitely make different objectives easier or are better suited to different techniques.  But the big open heel curve or the closed toe curve and everything in between can be great shooter's curve.  The challenge (or fun part) is figuring out what you like to do and which curve makes that easier. 

One of the big things I miss about the days of wooden sticks or 2-piece combos was that experimenting with different patters was such an easy thing to do and was such a low-cost proposition. To the OP's question, I think that cost makes us all more reliant on that gobbledygook - it's harder and more expensive to try out new patterns, kickpoints, etc., so we lean on descriptions. (One reason that this site and all of the thoughtful or knowledgeable folks who post here are such a boon!)

On the p88 v. p28 question, I don't love either of them but prefer the P28 for shooting because I find that a more open curve works better for my shooting style and makes picking the top corners easier.  

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2 hours ago, boo10 said:

More marketing gobbledygook.  No curve is a shooter's curve.  The curve that best matches your preferred technique is the best shooter's curve for you.  I can shoot equally well with just about any curve, and certainly all the popular retail options.  The difference is in how much I have to concentrate on different types of shots with each curve.  For example, a P28 or P29 requires less wrist rotation to hit the top corner in comparison to a P88.

I get that part about concentrating. I feel like with slap shots with the p28 I really have to focus to get them low, and if I’m not and even sometimes when I am concentrating on follow through I’ll go bar down instead

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30 minutes ago, JAY4114 said:

How does closed/opened face and curve depth effect power if at all?

Neither effect power. 

If you want a different release, you might want to look at mid-kick and low-kick options and stay with your current curve.

If you want more power for wrist shots, you want a lower flex. If you want more power for slap shots, you want a higher flex.

The face and curve differences affect your aim and control for shots and passes.

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8 hours ago, caveman27 said:

Neither effect power. 

If you want a different release, you might want to look at mid-kick and low-kick options and stay with your current curve.

If you want more power for wrist shots, you want a lower flex. If you want more power for slap shots, you want a higher flex.

The face and curve differences affect your aim and control for shots and passes.

What is “better” for accuracy?

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 [coach/dad voice] “What’s better for accuracy is Practice.”

“Better” is a tricky term. What works for me might not work for you. Particularly I f you’re still developing technique, the p88 is more consistent, because it’s one smooth curve. P28 has enough different parts, that you have to learn how to use it from the heel vs toe. personally, I have trouble with the p28 keeping anything on the ice. It’s great for quickly elevating shots, but if I want to make a hard tape to tape pass, there’s a good chance it’s getting to the other player 6” or more off the ice, which isn’t helpful to anyone.

Do you play with a ball? (Maybe I’m confusing your with someone else.) Shooting a ball with a p28, for me, would put it in the parking lot. It’s so open and twisty. You might be able to get some wild lateral movement, but everything is going to be waist high. 

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2 hours ago, JAY4114 said:

What is “better” for accuracy?

Both. Depends on your style of shooting and passing.

Look at all the top NHL players with a curve related to their name. They all have different blades or a variation of an existing one. They all have accuracy to score, don't they?

If you had three sticks, one with a toe curve, one with a mid-heel curve, and one with a heel curve, then, you took wrist shots and slap shots with all three. You would want to go with the stick where the puck ended up where you were aiming it. What if all three curves were accurate? 

As you progress in your game, you will have a tendency to shoot from particular locations (optimal for you). Maybe you like to shoot close up to the net, maybe you like to shoot from the blue line, or maybe somewhere in between. Maybe you rarely shoot, but you stick handle and pass most of the time. One of the three curves will work for your style of play than the other two. Same thing with open and close faced blades. You are able to adjust to all three curves and everything in between, but particular curves will not be to your liking or particular curves will be to your liking. If you don't like heel curve, you will gravitate to toe, mid-toe sticks. If you don't like toe curve, you will gravitate toward mid-heel and heel curve sticks.

 

Edited by caveman27

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6 hours ago, start_today said:

 [coach/dad voice] “What’s better for accuracy is Practice.”

“Better” is a tricky term. What works for me might not work for you. Particularly I f you’re still developing technique, the p88 is more consistent, because it’s one smooth curve. P28 has enough different parts, that you have to learn how to use it from the heel vs toe. personally, I have trouble with the p28 keeping anything on the ice. It’s great for quickly elevating shots, but if I want to make a hard tape to tape pass, there’s a good chance it’s getting to the other player 6” or more off the ice, which isn’t helpful to anyone.

Do you play with a ball? (Maybe I’m confusing your with someone else.) Shooting a ball with a p28, for me, would put it in the parking lot. It’s so open and twisty. You might be able to get some wild lateral movement, but everything is going to be waist high. 

I do play with a ball. For wrist shots the p28 seems fine, but with slap shots there will be times where it goes straight up in the air so I must be hitting a weird part of the blade

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3 hours ago, JAY4114 said:

I do play with a ball. For wrist shots the p28 seems fine, but with slap shots there will be times where it goes straight up in the air so I must be hitting a weird part of the blade

For ball hockey I can't think of a single reason to use anything other than a P88 or some other closed face curve.  Anything with an open face is going to elevate a ball way too much, and it's very easy to shoot a ball 20' high with a straight stick, let alone a closed curve.

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2 hours ago, boo10 said:

For ball hockey I can't think of a single reason to use anything other than a P88 or some other closed face curve.  Anything with an open face is going to elevate a ball way too much, and it's very easy to shoot a ball 20' high with a straight stick, let alone a closed curve.

With a p88, sometimes I have trouble getting the shots higher and with the p28 sometimes I have trouble getting shots lower. I could probably use some work on technique. I have the best shot on my team though. And by sometimes I mean maybe 2 or 3 out of 10 shots don’t go into a corner with a p88 or under the blocker with a p28. 

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57 minutes ago, JAY4114 said:

With a p88, sometimes I have trouble getting the shots higher and with the p28 sometimes I have trouble getting shots lower. I could probably use some work on technique. I have the best shot on my team though. And by sometimes I mean maybe 2 or 3 out of 10 shots don’t go into a corner with a p88 or under the blocker with a p28. 

Well if your accuracy is 70-80%, then you're fine, no need to change anything.  Even the pros miss their target 20% of the time or more.

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8 hours ago, boo10 said:

Well if your accuracy is 70-80%, then you're fine, no need to change anything.  Even the pros miss their target 20% of the time or more.

I feel like I’m like that with the p88, but with the p28 shots either go middle level or high, I have to concentrate in order to get shots low, but practice might help with that if I really want to switch

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