gosinger

Got myself a brand new pair of CCM u+12 skates for 50€ (~70$) on clearance, and I was really surprised on how well they heat-mold. Now I'm not so sure if I'm going to convert them (the outsole isn't carbon composite as on the CL) or try them on the ice first.....first-world-problems ;)

The large frame extends slightly over my toe with a size 8.5 skate, but the front of the chassis can also be shortened (just like you can drill your own holes if you want), so it wouldn't be a problem.

@PinkApe: did you grab an x7.0 or X7.0? I made my initial transition from x3.0 to x:60 (which is the same as the x7.0), and I was amazed (so much better cornering and stops, plus a sh*tload of protection). Since then I advise people to start with x5.0 (or x4.0 if budget is really that big an issue) or similar (meaning the same level), they really are worth the increased price. Regarding re-enforcing CF for skates, iirc some people here did outsole repair using sheets of CF, most likely even in this thread. Regarding fixing CF sticks: there are some companies that offer broken OPS repair, but iirc all of the use some material that goes inside the shaft with some kind of "glue" (pardon my ignorance) to re-establish stability. Just putting some layers of CF to the outside most likely won't be enough.

@SirJW: It looks the same as the RBK version (both 10k and 8k) if that helps; worn for 3 seasons now (inline + ice) and still no problems. €: And yes, most definitely the most comfortable cup out there, including some MMA specific cups :)

@PinkApe404: I'm interested on how those will hold up for you; I did a x3.0 conversion a while back, but never had much trust in em (due to the thin outsole). Plus, the tongues were causing bad lace bite for me. Please report back with mid-/long-term experience on the boot :)

For me: more thermo-forming than the Bauer skates, so if you can't get any Bauers to fit really right but don't want to spend the cash on custom skates, these are your best option. Or some Mako I's on discount, if you know how to avoid the "Mako bumps". Wouldn't take the stiff-ness as "copying", every top-end skate is very stiff by now. I feel great in Bauer Vapors, but it takes multiple bakings and punches to get them "just right", so I will give the Makos a try asap.

Ha, got a hold of my notes, so here it goes...maybe not as refined as the full version that was lost during the downtime, but it will have to do. After > 2 months of skating (got them before the ambassador program started) on them 2-4x a week I'm still very happy with them, great feel and very sturdy. Feel free to ask :) --------- + = plus ~ = neutral product & assembly: + plastic is very sturdy, drilling holes for the holder with the chassis as a pattern resulted in a very clean result + ability to add rivet holes in other locations, making mount possible for pretty much any outsole shape + smart tool design, the rocker adjustment tool is great as it fits in-between the wheels + provided wheels, I was gonna replace them asap, but they held up great outdoors and were a pleasant surprise ~ 2 pre-drilled holes are hard to reach with a screwdriver (when using T-nuts and bolts) - according to Marsblade this should be "fixed" by the next batch ~ re-assembly: you might mount the lower part wrong way around if you aren't careful (happened to me, but I had the second skate as reference); after mount isn't easy because of the tight fit on the chassis spacers, took me several minutes each to re-align them - according to Marsblade, there will be some videos in the future to provide tips on mounting / assembly skating (all 76mm setup): + feeling is a lot closer to ice than any roller chassis I've head - skating to the rink (stairs, up- & downhill) with a backpack feels very strange, but once on the rink (where there are not stairs or hills) everything just feels right + turns tightened up by miles compared to rigid 80-80-76-76 setup + first time I was able to replicate my shuffle-stride with inline skates, really allowed for pushing down the heel + shifting weight forward/backward is more gradual than with the old TUUK rocker (which felt like a seesaw by comparison)

Damn it, my 1 page long review has gone.......I dunno if/when I'll have the time to write another, I can't even locate my notes right now :(

Nver seen ads on gloves before...

If at all possible, it would be great to have the holes in the future inline hockey specific frame lined up with the ones of the current model, in case of switching out the frames at one point (obviously not switching frequently) :)

I am soooo looking forward to the ambassador package for the marsblade, from what I've seen it should be the more stable (no arms that could break, no need to soak them, ...) of the setups. Of course nothing is going to be "just like ice", but the less transition required the better.

I wasn't in the game before there were carbon outsoles available, but I have converted a x3.0 which has a bendy plastic outsole and simply hate the feel. Older skates might have the same "issue" regarding outsoles, maybe someone else can comment on that factor? The Bauer OneUP is the cheapest chassis in .eu shops currently available, but I haven't heard any positive feedback (plenty of bent/ripped frames). Most shops also offer the aluminium Easton frame for <50€ including axels and spacers, those might be worth a closer look. What I did is to get a few pieces of 1mm thermo-formable plastics and glue them to the high wear area of my skates (a pair dedicated for the rough tarmac surface at one location).

And way more sexy :) Nice job, looks like a great setup that even matches color-wise.

Love the DT2, very under-rated glove imho :)

Wow, any chance we will be able to get something similar in Europe? The current pricing 280€ (2500SEK) is what is keeping me from giving them a try to be honest.

From some reports on S2K it looks as if Eagle is stepping up to the challenge.

Broke my ankle joint, slipped on fresh snow and crashed onto the curb. 6 weeks in a cast, 2 of which in a non-weight-bearing cast...damn :/

Great 2 weeks in gear, and all while not even being able to play due to an injury. Bauer Supreme 8090 skates (used once before) Bauer Vapor XXXX skates (used <5x before) Warrior DT2 gloves Warrior Bonafide gloves Gotta get a pic once there is some daylight availble :)

Hmmm, if the Vapor is overhauled I'll have to stock up on 7.0 elbows, never had anything as comfortable as my XXXX (which should be about the same).

8.5D, so I assume there will be more than enough room on the outsole to mount the chassis. Should arrive via postal service within the next few days. Glad to hear you like them, for me those were just before I got into hockey so it so I have no first-handed experience with the 8090s.

Just purchased an old 8090 skate for 60€, only used once - looking forward to that conversion, I still have a spare Mag Vanguard somewhere :) It will be much softer and heavier than my other skates (One95, X:60), but if it keeps me from having to switch wheels twice a week...

I have not heard of a chassis with the same drill pattern as holders, in general a holder is mounted more towards the outside of the outsole. So you would need two sets of holes , that would most likely overlap which is a problem if you put T-nuts in as they are rather large (they have to be). My advise: get two pairs of skates, clearance or used if budget is tight.

Blisters would indicate movement inside the boot, that shouldn't happen if the skate is already molded to your foot (either baking or skating ~10-15 times).

Well, its not pro-stock but still custom I'd say. Fischer SX5 blade, "Jagr" curve, a Bauer P14 for comparison on the left (and behind for the lie/rocker comparison) Picked it up at a small hockey shop in .cz, they told me Fischer at least has a lefty mold and offers blades and any OPS on demand, but the shop has to order at least 6 of them. Might be good news for anyone wanting to try this crazy hook without breaking the bank :)

Don't know if this is the proper place to ask but I didn't want to derail the E28/E36 threads: I get how you are supposed to shoot from the toe and how to toe re-enforcement prevents the blade from opening up. I have tried the technique with a P14 and it did work. But are you supposed to shoot every type of shot (including slapshots/one-timers) from the toe or is it basically snappers/small-wristers only?