Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

gosinger

Members+
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    436

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by gosinger

  1. gosinger
    I have not heard of a chassis with the same drill pattern as holders, in general a holder is mounted more towards the outside of the outsole. So you would need two sets of holes , that would most likely overlap which is a problem if you put T-nuts in as they are rather large (they have to be). My advise: get two pairs of skates, clearance or used if budget is tight.
  2. gosinger
    Blisters would indicate movement inside the boot, that shouldn't happen if the skate is already molded to your foot (either baking or skating ~10-15 times).
  3. gosinger
    Well, its not pro-stock but still custom I'd say. Fischer SX5 blade, "Jagr" curve, a Bauer P14 for comparison on the left (and behind for the lie/rocker comparison) Picked it up at a small hockey shop in .cz, they told me Fischer at least has a lefty mold and offers blades and any OPS on demand, but the shop has to order at least 6 of them. Might be good news for anyone wanting to try this crazy hook without breaking the bank :)
  4. gosinger
    Don't know if this is the proper place to ask but I didn't want to derail the E28/E36 threads: I get how you are supposed to shoot from the toe and how to toe re-enforcement prevents the blade from opening up. I have tried the technique with a P14 and it did work. But are you supposed to shoot every type of shot (including slapshots/one-timers) from the toe or is it basically snappers/small-wristers only?
  5. gosinger
    Well, hockeycorner has the CA9 on close-out size 10 for 250€, the CA9-RPD in 9.5/10.5 for 320€ - had I not just purchased RX:60s I'd have gone with the RPD in a heartbeat. (The shop was hit by a flood recently, they are selling like crazy to keep the lights on...)
  6. gosinger
    Did you have to create shims or anything in order to fix the chassis to the boot? As it does not have that flat outsole?
  7. gosinger
    I just received my Mag Vanguards, looks like I'd do my X:60s with those once I've grown comfortable to the 7.0 :) Looking forward to my third conversion, now with me method dialed in it should take me just one instead of three nights ;)
  8. gosinger
    ^ Nice one - love the X:60. Once I've grown comfortable with my X7.0 I'll go ahead and convert my X:60s as-well. Still not sure if I'll go Mission HiLo or Labeda (well, Rbk powered by Labeda) straight 80mm, any suggestions? Currently feeling OK with my One95 + Vanguard setup, but why not try something new?
  9. gosinger
    What do you guys think about converting an X:50, the outsole is described as "Full texallium composite" and should be less stiff than the carbon outsole on the X:60 - would it be stiff enough to support an inline frame for a ~80kg (180lbs) advanced level skater?
  10. gosinger
    Nice.......... APX2 & rivets, and what I assume is a Mission Mag 76-76-80-80 frame?
  11. gosinger
    I've done a conversion using counter-sunk screws and self-locking nuts once, didn't feel those at all - they are flatter than the T-nut version which you can feel a little bit but stop to notice after a few minutes. I suppose these screws here are hardly noticeable once the insole is in.
  12. gosinger
    Tbh, for the price even as a European I won't try it without any good reviews out....
  13. gosinger
    avoided to click this thread for a while due to the title, thought that DIY sharpeners were impossible for "amateurs" - I'm glad I stand corrected now, that is some great work in here! +1
  14. gosinger
    For the .eu folks: the newsletter for hockeycorner.de just announced an easter-special, -20% off all alkali products (coupon code same as the company name) - 31.03. 00:00 to 02.04. 11:00 :) Might get myself some new gloves.....
  15. gosinger
    Hmm, I did just do a bit of quick maths (even though my trigonometry is a little bit rusty), and these are my results: At the position I "bottom out" on my LS2 skates my holder (including steel) is approx 60mm tall, width of my skate from the middle is approx 45mm, so I have a triangle: X = blade/centerline of the holder = 60mm Y = middle to outside of the skate = 45mm Z = distance between edge and outside of the skate = Sqrt(X^2+Y^2) = 75mm A = angle between X & Z = arcsin(Y / Z) = 36.9° Same calculation with X' = 63mm (3mm taller holder) Z' = 77.4mm A' = 35.6° So the new 3mm taller holder would make your maximum angle (90° - A) to the ice shallower by 1.3° or a delta of about 3.5% (with A = 100%, A' = 96.5%, dunno if it makes sense to express this value in %). Am I correct in assuming that adding both a heel- and toe-lift of 3mm to my regular LS2 holder would result in more psychological than a physical cornering advantage? Or is my (attempt in) math just plain wrong?
  16. gosinger
    Hi, could you add a pic of that DIY comfort edge and a few lines how you did it? Thanks
  17. gosinger
    Great thing about those shoulders, will look into them (prob. not 20k but 18k/16k) for the next season. Thanks for providing the info!
  18. gosinger
    My first "serious" conversion (previous was a Vapor X3.0 with a Nike Rocker frame....more of a fun skate really): Boot: One95 8EE (used, plenty battle-scars from the ice rink) Frame: Mission Vanguard M (aluminium) Wheels: 80-80-76-76 2x Easton 84A (white), Hyper 84A (orange) - those will change, but shop is out of stock... Hardware: M4 T-Nuts, M4 stainless screws (10mm front, 16mm wheel with heel-lift), spring-lock washers
  19. gosinger
    Love the XXXX, great skate but hard to find by now - good pickup :)
  20. gosinger
    I was playing around with the T-nuts yesterday (basically taking off the LS2 holder and remounting it with T-nuts and bolts) and experienced some problems with spinning T-Nuts (thereby cutting the insole a little bit :/) even though I didn't clip the 4 prongs. How do you guys handle spinning T-nuts, and do you clip the prongs (which would cause even more spinning I suppose?)?
  21. gosinger
    Graf-screws are just a different kind of T-Nuts & bolts with a similar look. Any reason for not using the 4th hole in the heel?
  22. gosinger
    Great looking build - T-Nuts or Graf screws?
  23. gosinger
    Just ordered my alu Vanguards, now to decide if I'll convert a Vapor 7.0 or a One95, both fit reasonably well....will post here once completed :)
  24. gosinger
    Next round of upgrades HELMET - Easton S19 + DIY Cage/Visor, was: Rbk 6k + Cage SHOULDER - CCM Crazy Strong, was:Easton EQ20 ELBOW - Bauer XXXX, was: Easton EQ20 GLOVES - Slade MaxFX PANTS - Torspo Surge 421 Pro Forward SHIN - CCM Crazy Strong, was:Easton S3 SKATES - Bauer X:60 (new backup: Bauer x7:0) STICKS - Torspo Surge Pro curve: P4 Flex: 75 BAG - Easton EQ30
  25. gosinger
    Haven't had a chance to take pics before: CCM Crazy-Strong (CS) shoulders and shins Sande Max-FX gloves Sande Max-360TF gloves
×
×
  • Create New...