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althoma1 last won the day on May 2

althoma1 had the most liked content!

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543 Excellent

About althoma1

  • Birthday 11/03/1977


  • Skates
    Easton Mako II (ice), Mako M7 with Sprungs for roller
  • Stick
    Sherwood Rekker M90 with P28 curve, Inno Mania with Smyth curve
  • Gloves
    STX Surgeon 500
  • Helmet
    Easton E700 with CCM Fitlite Titanium cage, Easton E700 with Bauer Pro Clip Visor (ref)
  • Pants
    Warrior Projekt Girdle, Valken V-Pro with V-Elite Girdle for roller
  • Shoulder Pads
    Verbero Shield
  • Elbow Pads
    2012 Warrior Projekt
  • Shin Pads
  • Hockey Bag
    Warrior or RBK Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Toronto, ON
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  1. Yes, they have chrome and yellow. See this post from October for pictures:
  2. I've never used one, but from what I've read and the YouTube video's I've watched, the 9K Pro Girdles are the most protective wrap style girdle available. They'll be heavier than retail girdles, but will be very protective. The original 9K pro girdles were Reebok branded, but there are some CCM 9K Pro girdles out there as well; so, search for both. Here's a good video @Hills made comparing the Jetspeed girdle to a 9K girdle: The Hockey Shop in British Columbia, Canada had some of the CCM 9K Pro girdles in stock a while back, but they don't have any in right now. Here's what they look like though: https://www.thehockeyshop.com/products/ccm-9k-pro-senior-hockey-girdle There are a few Reebok 9K Pros on Sidelineswap right now: https://sidelineswap.com/en-CA/shop/hockey/pants-girdles-shells/girdles/reebok/model-9k-24/l11842
  3. For the top two eyelets, thread the laces through the eyelets behind the tongue and then pull the laces over. It's much easier that way. Trying to thread the laces through the eyelets with the lace in front of the tongue is really tough. As for the feel issue, I only have TF9s converted to roller, so I don't know how they feel on ice, but I know most people that go from another brand to True ice skates end up having to go with a shallower hollow; so, that's definitely a good starting point. If the boots felt comfortable, I personally wouldn't change the footbed. I'd start with the hollow and if that didn't fix it, I'd consider getting them profiled.
  4. I'm 100% sure. I've been using Sprungs for about 15 years now and the mounting instructions that the inventor provided were: 1) Find something that shows up on the sole and mark the center of the toe and heel on the sole. Check the boot and sole to best find the center spots. 2) Draw a line from the toe spot to the heel spot. 3) Find the center of the line on the sole between the end edges of the sole and mark it. 4) Measure 1/4" toward the heel from the center point and mark this point with a line across the sole at 90 degrees to the center line. 5) Align the frame with the center of the toe mount and heel mount on the center line, and the horizontal cross member in the center of the frame lined up with the horizontal line on the sole (# 4). 6 Drill the holes through the frame (you can drill inward a little to avoid hitting the frame with the drill, and they will mount easier because of the slight angle). Or mark the mount holes through the frame and drill with the frame removed. 7) ENJOY I always printed out these instructions and gave them to the shop. One shop didn't follow them early on and I definitely felt the difference. If they're centered then you engage the suspension by just standing on them. If they're mounted 1/4" toward the rear then you only engage the front suspension when you stride. If they're mounted more toward the front that'd definitely explain the stability issues...that's the opposite of what you want and is even worse than a mount that is centered front to back. They'll definitely feel way better if you get them remounted toward the rear. After the one incorrect mounting, I not only print out the instructions, but insist they read and use them (some workers believe they've done enough inline conversions that they don't need instructions, but they're used to a flat chassis like a HI-Lo where you do want to center them. You have to emphasize that they need to be mounted 1/4" toward the rear). Actually, the last couple times I actually brought boots with a good mount in as an example and just said, mount them exactly the same. I had 8EE OG Makos with a good mount as an example and was getting a new chassis mounted on 8EE Mako M7 boots - so the boot size and shape was exactly the same. I left one of the OG Makos with Sprungs in the shop for them to reference. With that size of skate and a Sprung A6 there's only about 5mm (less than a 1/4") of space at the rear after mounting and 10mm (a little under 1/2") at the front; so, a 1/4" more toward the rear just like the inventor intended. Here's a video of someone doing the install on their own. If you look at his edited comments in the video, he later realizes that using a center punch to punch out most of the rivets is way easier than prying them out or using a chisel. A shop of course has a rivet machine with a punch. I have removed a chassis on my own in the past and just used a rubber mallet and a robertston screw driver to punch out most of the rivets...a shop can do this more efficiently though:
  5. I scan as a 7.5 Fit 3 Bauer and wear 8EE Makos. When I tried TF9 skates, 8W was clearly too big, 7.5W felt like the right size before baking and 7W was really hard to get my foot in and my toes were hard against the cap. I still went with the 7W, after baking they still felt a bit short, but after about 10 hours of skating, I was glad I went with the 7W vs. 7.5W. So, I would try them on, but keep in mind that the right size should feel too small before baking. If they feel like the right size before baking, they'll likely be too large after baking and break in. A half size down from Bauer is a good starting point, but every foot is different.
  6. What size Sprung (A6, A7 or A8)? What size and type of wheels were you using and on what surface? They may not be for you, but there's also a chance they may feel better to you with different wheels. I know one of the first times I used them on sealed concrete, I used wheels that were too soft and it felt like I was skating in mud. After I changed to different wheels they felt way better. Besides wheels, the other key things with Sprungs is that you want to make sure the chassis is mounted a 1/4" more toward the rear than the front. You don't want the mount centered from front to back like you do with some other chassis. If you determine it's not a mounting or wheel issue then reselling them makes sense.
  7. I agree that the R1's are more durable than the Sprungs, but I wouldn't say that Sprungs offer no advantage. Personally, I find stopping way easier in the Sprungs and they're also a bit lighter. I do feel that the R1's are faster and you get full stride extension and can use a toe flick with both chassis (unlike a flat/Hi-Lo where you have to use a choppier, shorter stride).
  8. Yes, use the convection setting. The skate ovens at the store are smaller convection ovens. Preheat to 200 Fahrenheit and bake the skates one at a time for 10 minutes. You can put a damp tea towel on a pizza tray and then put the skates on that. Flip them at the 5 minute mark to ensure they're evenly heated. 6 minutes at 180 isn't long enough or hot enough. Obviously having access to a shop with a proper oven is ideal, but I have baked Kor, Mako and True skates at home with the convection setting successfully. I have also had Kors and Makos baked at a shop and the results felt the same to my feet.
  9. I went from the Projekt to the True XC9 girdle. The XC9 is more protective around the waist area and lower back than the Projekt. The Covert girdle looks very similar to the XC9 and us the other option I was considering, but I came across a great deal on the XC9.
  10. I have never used the O1, but from what I've read and seen, I'd say the O1 would likely feel the most like ice and would also provide the most challenge for off ice training. I think the Sprungs would be more stable and make playing inline easier - that's just a guess though.
  11. While I can get full stride extension with the R1 and make tighter turns than with a standard chassis, I can hardly feel the movement with the stock setup. It feels very stable to me - the O1 is the chassis that's designed to be less stable in order to challenge your muscles for ice off training (I haven't used that one). In comparison to the R1, I can definitely feel the movement of the Sprung chassis I've used for years - the movement in much more noticeable to me, with Sprungs. So, personally, I wouldn't worry about stability with the R1. As for the inserts, I haven't used them, but some are designed for more heel movement and some are designed for more toe. I just kept the stock insert. Scroll down on this page until you get to the insert setting graphic with the blue background: https://www.marsblade.com/roller-hockey You can click through those and it'll tell you the percentage of toe vs heel movement.
  12. Having the top Vapor option only available in Fit 2 also takes away the shallow/narrow option. Fit 2 Vapors won't offer a fit that's significantly different than a D width Mission. So, Bauer will have two similar fits, plus E and EE Mission. Ok for the average to slightly wide foot, but nothing for the narrow/low volume or high volume/very wide. For my foot type, narrow/average heel, average depth and very wide forefoot, True in W fits best out of the current models. Those and my old EE Mako M7 fit well. I hope the True W fit stays around for a while as I don't think options from other brands would work as well for my feet.
  13. Concrete provides more friction than ice, so I would go with the slightly stiffer 85 flex shaft.
  14. Some people put stock in that and others just want to buy what fits, feels and looks best for them. I've never tried the Super Tacks X, but I've definitely heard from others that it's very comfortable and well ventilated. It looks like it'd also pass the mirror test for most people. You're right that the segment of the market that puts stock in the VT tests will likely avoid it, but there's a large segment of the market that doesn't use the VT results to help them select their helmet. So the VT results may deter some and the price may deter others, but some people won't care about either factor.
  15. Agreed. It's great for companies and for consumers who are willing to pay whatever is necessary to get what they want. Most consumers love clearance and overstock deals on high end equipment, but that's obviously not ideal for the manufacturers.
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