krisdrum

Thanks. Was only aware of the new Supreme ADV. Didn't realize similar tech was available in all three lines.

Phil Kessel, Johnny Gaudreau, and I'm sure countless others use low flex sticks compared to the common guideline of 1/2 body weight. I think the days of 90, 100, 110 flexes being the norm are behind us. Stick tech has gotten to the point where a lower flex is a more versatile tool. I have nowhere near the skill of any of those guys, but have seen much better shots come from dropping my flex from 85 down to 65, as a 5-6, 180lber, I think the lower flex is better for me. Is the ADV a low kick? Given the Supreme badging and everything I've read, I thought it was still mid-kick. Did I miss something?

Survey response likelihood is less about attention span and more about "value". What value are the respondents providing compared to the potential value they'll get back. This "calculation" includes their time to complete, usefulness of the information, sensitivity of the information, etc. If the value ratio isn't tipped in the respondent's favor, you are way less likely to have a strong response rate. Similarly how intimate the questions are (are you asking very personal things or not) will be added to their calculation and may be a factor if their anonymity/confidentiality is in question. Your question about "do they really get shots off quicker" is answered (somewhat) on a linked page to the Tennis Warehouse page already linked. According to the research they did, the Vapor 1X had the quickest release of the sticks they tested (20.7 ms). Worst is True A6.0 SBP at (23.3 ms). We are talking less than 3 millisecond difference between the best and worst sticks on their list. The mean/average of all the sticks tested is 22.4 ms. That gives us a standard deviation of less than 1 for all the data points provided, which would not be scientifically significant. So, is there a difference... yes. Is it one that scientifically makes a difference...no. According to Wikipedia's page on milliseconds, a horsefly's wing flap is 3 milliseconds. If a human can pick out 1 wing flap of a horsefly, I'd be amazed. So.. maybe they are "hype". So if we take the science off the table as being significant, it comes down to feel/proprioception. Stiffer blade feel vs. softer blade feel. Where the stick flexes compared to where your hands naturally fall on the shaft to give the sensation of flex back to your body. Etc.

I'm assuming it is a mistake, but the scale on the Supreme 1S graph is double the scale on all the other graphs. All the graphs show 5 inch increments up to 50 inches. The Supreme graph shows 20 inch increments up to 120. It would be a pretty flawed testing protocol to treat one stick in a very different way from the rest, but it does make me question comparing that graph against the others. Not being a materials engineer, I'm not sure how similar producing a graphite golf shaft is to making a hockey stick shaft. Does graphite come in sheets like carbon fiber? Are there different qualities of graphite? Can you manipulate the lay-up of graphite in the same way? I would want to know more about that before comparing the flex manipulation for each shaft type.

I don't have a giant head, but I do have a wide/round head. I have found the icewarehouse website very helpful, as they list if each helmet has a round or oval fit. That will help you narrow down. I currently have a Reakt 75, but have also used the Bauer IMS 5.0 with good success. I tried a 5100 and hated it, squeezed the sides of my head, similar to what you are describing. I tried a Warrior Alpha One Pro. Good width, but way too deep for my head. It was almost covering my eyebrows.

OP - could have been a dislocation of your knee cap. I did it a few summers ago doing family stick time with my son. Went to avoid another kid, caught an edge and pop. Got back up, managed to skate to bench. Was in pain, but it subsided. Skated a bit more, but it didn't feel right, so I jumped off. Was still bothering me, so later that day went to urgent care and they thought I dislocated the knee cap and then it popped back in. Gave me a brace to immobilize it, which I wore for a few weeks.

Currently, Graf 535 wide. But I just picked up a pair of used G75 lites that have been my dream skate for awhile. The heel lock isn't quite as good as the 535, but I haven't baked them yet, so I'm sure I can get it better. I have a wide forefoot and narrow heel. Anything with a medium heel cup just doesn't lock my foot in. I tried the EE Makos first, then tried the D width figuring the upper is moldable enough to accommodate my forefoot width, hoping the heel would be a bit narrower. It was, but still not enough.

Similarly, I really liked the way they fit me as well, but my heel wasn't as locked as I wanted. I tried everything, but ultimately had to give up on them, as I found the carbon portion of the heel to not be moldable. The upper is very moldable, but if your heel lock issues are lower down in the boot, I'm not sure there is a solution for that without a pad or something else to fill the gap between your heel and the boot.

I've kinda muddle through this and in hindsight, should have just gone to a shop and did it in person with someone with some knowledge of fitting. Most on my equipment was either hand-me-down from other family members or picked up used at swap meets, auction sites, etc. Definitely DON'T feel like you need to go top of the line. Frankly in most cases (and I believe there are old threads on here that will back me up), the basic models in most line-ups are going to be more than sufficient. As you go higher in price you might get a bit more protection coverage, but it is mostly about weight savings and creature comforts related to fit (nicer materials, better knee donut in your shins, more comfortable strapping, etc.) I went from a pair of APX2 (top model) shins that were 1 size too small (hand me down) to Supreme 150s (basic entry model) and there are definitely some things I miss from the APX, but for the most part they are minor. I don't feel any less protected in the 150s.

Thanks. I use Superfeet and tried them on with them in. Still too much room for my liking. I'm just going to stick with what I have for the moment and re-evaluate down the road.

Experiment FAILED! Just tried my 535s and the 4400s on back to back and there is no comparison on fit. The 535 win hands down. Granted, they are baked, but the way they grab my heel and back of my foot is far superior to the 4400s. I don't think, even with a bake the 4400s will provide that level of fit and are going back to the seller. The search continues. Or maybe it doesn't. I did a bit of messing with how I laced the 535s and snug bottom but pretty cranked on the top 3-4 eyelets to pull the sides in probably gives me what I thought I was going to gain with a more modern boot.

Interesting, thanks guys. The volume of the instep is fine and I probably could add something to the back of the tongue to see if that reduces the ability for me to lift my heel without significantly increasing lacebite.

Yeah, been there, done that, got the t shirt. I don't think narrower is the answer here, as my heel doesn't move side to side. Only up and down a few mm. Think I may bring them to my local shop to get their opinion as well.

Hesitant to bake and hope for the best as that would likely remove the opportunity to return them. Was hoping for a bit more confidence before taking the plunge.

I'm currently in some Graf 535 and looking for something with a similar foot shape (narrow heel, medium/wide toe box) with a bit more of a modern approach. Found a pair of Graf PK4400 that seemed like a good bet. And I think they are... however, my heels are moving when laced up. Not side to side, but up and down when I flex my ankle. Not much, but enough I feel it and think it could become a problem. I get no movement in my 535. Looking at the boots side by side, my 535 have a pocket that hooks my heel from on top and holds it down. The 4400 don't, they have a much flatter profile in the heel. Would it be possible to punch/mold a similar pocket into the 4400 to help hold my heel down? Or is it a lost cause and I should just return them? I haven't baked them or done anything to them. Just tried on straight out of the box. I have narrow heels that also bump out from my achilles and rest of my foot. So they don't provide a lot of surface area for a skate to hold onto. And most skates don't have a pocket that overhangs the heel, so heel lock has been an issue in nearly all skates I've tried. I did see some info about doing the VH "tissue" mold, but also know heels in most skates are the least moldable/most reinforced making a traditional punch or tissue approach tough. Thoughts?

It has been forever since I've been on the forum, but I have some input. I realize this is from last summer, but hopefully it helps others looking for this summer. My son and niece and nephew have been working with a Smushkin trained instructor for the last 2+ years. This person used to be one of his best apprentices from what I understand. The changes in all of their skating and skills have been pretty dramatic! The approach builds slowly as skills progress and what may seem like insignificant drills do add up to a greater whole. But I think you only get the full benefit from that with consistency. if you are thinking of just a week long camp, you likely can get similar instruction elsewhere. If you have the opportunity to work with him more regularly. that is where I think you'd see the most upside.

I heard late July early August from my LHS a few months back. Not sure if they are still on schedule for that delivery date in the US.

Sorry, maybe not being clear, although a mute point. I thought VH offered a full 360 custom fit, by that I mean a custom spec boot and a custom insole (ex. orthotic). Obviously I am mis-remembering/understanding the product, as the video you posted is the one I was thinking of. I thought the yellow/black footbed was molded by VH to fit the contours of your specific foot in the event of a 3D scan fitting. Thinking that through, it doesn't make sense, because then the product would be different for paper/pencil fittings and 3D fittings, which wouldn't be a good a business model. Figments of my imagination. My bad.

Bummer. That was a major selling point for me. Full 360 custom.

I stand corrected. Perhaps that was an old option, as I could swear the videos I've watched on the skates talk about a custom insole.

Don't VH come with a custom molded insole that is based on the profile and shape of your foot? Why would you need an aftermarket generic insole?

Update: Got the left skate most of the way assembled last night while watching the Pens/Caps game. Need to re-drill 1 hole up in the toe and the plastic I cut to shim my heel didn't work out the way I thought, so I need to re-assess and figure out another solution. Might just finish assembly without the shim for now and alter down the line if needed. Should have the pair complete by tonight. Realized after a few bolts in the toe area that I was trying to assemble with too short a bolt, so I adjusted and the rest went much easier and have gone back and switched the shorter ones out. I'm doing a dry assembly at the moment to double check fit. Will go back and add threadlock once I have everything square. Updation Nation: Finished them up last night. Salvaged some thinner shim material from the garage, re-made my shims based on the ones I had already made. I may need to increase the size down the road, but at least I have a starting point to work from. Found a Torx 15 screw driver too, which made assembly alot easier and faster. I was using one of those stupid "flip out" kits the night before and it was a PIA. Only had to re-drill 2 holes. 1 per skate to get proper hole alignment. Not too bad. Assembled dry then backed the screws out and dropped thread lock into the T-nuts from above. Everything seems solid. Laced them up quickly last night and did a lap of the dining room table. Hope to give them a real go on some Ice Court this weekend.

Got it, makes sense. I just looked at the IW fit descriptions of both and I'm not surprised to hear you needed a bit of help in the heel of the CCMs given what you've found with the Makos. U+10: General fit aspects of the CCM boot are medium-high volume, medium ankle area, wide across top of foot and forefoot and medium toe box. Mako: General fit aspects of the Mako boot is low to medium volume with a very contouring fit; offering low-medium volume in the ankle area, heel pocket, across the top of the foot and the toe box

Nice. I am in 535's. Great heel lock, but the pronation is very evident. I had the heel of the holders shimmed, which has helped re-align the balance point, but I am still having issues with my left (weak side) foot. I've started doing exercises to strengthen all those little muscles to help build strength and re-alignment, but who knows how long that will take before I see a change for the better.

Which CCM were you coming from that needed the Stable 26?