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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
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krisdrum

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krisdrum last won the day on March 22

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  1. My post was more a reaction to the OP's statement. "Meant to be"
  2. Looks like 2S Pros to me based on the shape and breaks.
  3. Is any curve "designed" to carry a puck a certain way for every player? There are too many factors involved for that to be a hard and fast rule. In the picture of Johnny, remember he is one of the shortest (if not THE shortest) in the league. With a higher lie curve (P92 for example), the toe would be even further off the ice. I'm about the same size as Johnny. I like the P88 because of the lower lie allowing me to keep more blade on the ice most of the time. If you are taller - I doubt you'd have much issue keeping the toe down.
  4. Agree, I took a big leap of 1/4" from 5/8 to 7/8 with very little adjustment. Another 1/16 or more might be even better. Personally, I could maybe go shallower, just haven't had the time / desire to experiment further yet. Although I am probably at my upper limit. I'm only playing once a week in a game situation, so I'd hate to go too shallow and ruin my night.
  5. If you prefer ice, the O1 is probably a better option than anything else currently on the market. Definitely not cheap but there are ways to mitigate the added expense. They come up used pretty regularly.
  6. I also think the hollow is the right place to start. I dropped from my standard 5/8 (even 9/16 sometimes) to 7/8 with very little adjustment and no loss of control and the skates are much easier to "slide out" now, but still plenty grippy when I need/want it. My nephew who is in custom Trues went all the way to a 1 3/8 cut and loves it. Granted his edge work is impeccable, but I think that also says something about how effectively the boot transfers body movement into the ice. I was in Ribcor 76Ks just prior to getting the Trues and I didn't feel much of a change pitch-wise. But I didn't go down a runner size in the Trues. And I second the "behind the tongue" lacing approach for the top 1-2 eyelets. So much easier than trying to cram it through in front of the tongue. I'm surprised the shop you bought them from did not give you this tip at purchase.
  7. Still there. Last post here:
  8. Didn't you just post on the other thread that they fit perfectly and you were selling your Bauers?
  9. I like a softer skate and really liked the Ribcor 76K, except for those damn hot spots, they would have been perfect. I just wasn't able to effectively get rid of them and they were too much of a pain (literally) to keep them. I've moved on to the True retail skates and have been enjoying those.
  10. I played in mine for almost 3 months, 1-2 a week. Hardly beat to shit, but I did have some hot spots I tried to resolve with some pretty aggressive punching in the heel. No issues. And you'll very likely know whether they will work or not way before 3 months are up. I returned mine after about 2 months. Would have sooner but I was trying hard to make them work with those hot spots.
  11. Resurrecting this for a related question... my biggest reason for using non-tape is to save glove palms, with the main offender being the top edge of the stick/buttcap digging into the palm and wearing a hole. My son usually gets 6 months if he is lucky out of his palms before he has worn a hole through 2 layers of nash on his top hand, even with the "won't wear your palm" materials like Lizardskinz. Anyone find a solution for this? Is there one? I've tried taping the edge and then covering it with a non-abrasive grip material. Eventually it wears through and exposes rougher materials or sharp edges.
  12. 6.5 is nothing. I'm in size 4 Trues. 4.5 in Bauer/CCM just like @puckpilot. I'm a bit lighter at 170-180lbs, but have had no issues with junior/intermediate skates at all.
  13. Ah, I see it now, looking at the most recent pictures. I'd be surprised if something is bent - all those components look very beefy.
  14. That is my assumption as well. So you are seeing information that it should look more like the top images?
  15. I'm a total layman - so take this with a HUGE grain of salt. But the dressing tip location looks right to me. Isn't the whole idea of the dressing tip to make a convex shape in the edge of the grinding wheel so you can use the wheel to make a concave shape in the blade? It looks like the swing arm just needs to be positioned closer to the wheel, so as you swing it up from the very bottom of the wheel to the top it creates that half-circle radius in the edge.
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