krisdrum

I tend to agree with this as well. My skates (it took awhile to find a really good fit) are tied "snug" up to about the 3rd or 4th eyelet from the top and then a bit more tension to the top to pull the sides of the skate around my ankle I'd define "snug" as just a bit more tension once the lace is laying flat on the boot without any wrinkles or excess length between the eyelets. There isn't any "slop" or negative space between my foot and the upper of the boot. I'll add, I also don't wear "normal" "modern" skates by today's standards. I'm in a pair of Graf 535 wides. Which compared to most skates these days are low cut noodles made from antiquated materials. But they fit my feet like a glove.

So, my understanding is from narrow to wide, you have: Vapor D, Supreme D, Vapor EE, Supreme EE. Obviously the foot shapes are different. I'd be concerned with the Vapor depth as well, since you are bulging out of the eyelets. Doesn't sound like the boot is deep enough for your foot. Only way to deal with that is: A - get a deeper boot, B - don't tie them very tight. What is the concern with having "loose" laces?

Curious what others say, as I've personally had much better success with punching out a boot that has nagging hotspots and pinch areas if the rest of the boot fits well than going to a wider boot. You want to minimize the negative space, I would think going to a wider boot just to accommodate 1 area would cause other fit issues.

Can you not punch the bunion location out on your Supreme 9Ds? Will the boot not stretch enough to create space? It sounds like the Supreme is a better fit for your foot, except for that 1 spot.

I was also curious about durability, which you would hope would be decent, but never know. Didn't think of the temp effect though, that would definitely be the proof in the pudding, although stuff like bladetape seems to manage the cold pretty well and stay sticky.

THIS is very helpful, for me and what I am seeing in my son. I'll try the "hip hinge" instruction instead of the "bend knees" instruction. This has been a constant struggle for him and it is getting to the point where despite great edge work and other positives to his game, his lack of knee bend/hip hinge/ability to lengthen his stride is holding his game back.

As the OP, I have noticed exactly what you are saying. I've been using mostly Easton E3 (p92/29) curve, and I definitely struggle to keep the toe down, which results in missed passes, not great stick handling and just overall struggles. I also have found it hard to consistently get the puck to come off the blade the same way twice in a row when shooting. Much of that might be technique, but after trying the PM9 and P88 curves, definitely find them more user friendly for where my skill level is currently at. So another semi-update. Did a bit of stick handling and pass/receive with the P88s last night and so far I am liking it. Feels more "secure" and "grounded" then my P92 curves did and about the same as my PM9 curves. I think it is what I'll stick with for awhile unless I start to see inconsistencies pop back up. Thanks everyone for weighing in and lending a hand.

Curious if your stick height is based on or off skates...

Thanks, I'm overthinking things as usual.

Update... was away this weekend in Buffalo, so really didn't get a chance to mess around with stuff. But I did pick up a Sherwood woody I found with a P88 and then last night a STX at our home rink with an X88 curve for super cheap. So now have P92, P88, and PM9 curves. I was really liking the lower lie of the PM9 (lie 5), but the P88 takes me in the opposite direction, with a lie 6, which would suggest I cut my stick shorter than normal to maximize blade on ice. Here is my concern... I'm short (5ft, 6in) and seem to like my sticks on the shorter side (about chin to adam's apple off skates). A 6 lie is going to make my stick even shorter if I am looking to get the blade pretty flat in a neutral hand position. Is there a reasonable limit to how short is too short? I really don't want to look like I am out there using one of my son's junior sticks.

Yeah, it is a bit of a shame the economies of scale are shifting towards just 3 basic curves. Actually one of the reasons I brought up the question after finding a curve I dig, but that is quickly becoming obsolete. I'm concerned with spending too much time getting used to it or really falling in love and them having to adjust again when they are all gone. I figure I might as well take this time to explore a bit and see what the most popular curves have to offer.

I think you have this backwards. Wouldn't a lower lie keep the puck further in front of you and have a bigger angle between the blade and shaft, making it harder to work in close to your feet?

Thanks, one of the many videos I found that helped me better understand. Pulled the trigger on a cheap P88 stick on swap last night, so I'll have something in my hands to mess with in a few days. Then I can narrow things down from there.

Nevermind, I found some videos. I'll take a look, but think the 5 lie is flatter on the ice than the 5.5 lie is. I know my toe tends to come up a bit with that curve.

Ok, so how do I determine that? The E4 (lie 5) I am liking I know has a slightly lower lie than the E3 (lie 5.5) I've been using. Can you point me to an article or video to help me figure out the right lie? And is it really only about lie? Or adjusting stick length to work effectively with the lie?

I'm a relative beginner, getting into the sport as an adult because of my son. Took some skate lessons, do the occasional stick and puck session. But am pretty much a "bender"/newbie/pylon out there. But I want to focus a bit more on my own playing. How much of a different can a curve make? Been using a P92/29/E3 curve for awhile as I knew it was popular and pretty standard. I was always kind of neutral on it, not love or hate, just there, and I didn't know anything else. A few weeks back I picked up some used sticks cheap that have a PM9/E4 curve and am really enjoying them for passing and stick handling. I think I like the more closed face and "flatter" profile for more consistent/predictable results. But I've noticed my shot has suffered a bit (not that it was ever really good), and I really need to focus on keeping the puck on the heel to start my shot. Which got me thinking... what else have I been missing out on by not exploring other curves. P88 and P28 are both intriguing to me. P88 looks like basically a more closed P92. P28 looks similar to the PM9 heel to mid blade, but with the addition of a hook on the toe. My son has old sticks with both curves (although the youth/junior versions) that I've messed with a bit. P88 seems a good middle ground, more consistent response, so I am thinking I like a more closed blade. P28 was very easy to shoot off the toe and flick my wrist to get elevation (it was also on a 20 flex, so maybe not a great trial run). What should I do to narrow down to a curve or two I like, so as I ramp up my time using it, I can start to really understand how to use it consistently?

5/8" isn't profiling. That would be your Round of Hollow or the depth/shape of your edges. Profile is the curvature of the blade toe to heel.

The Bauer machine is going to tell you which current skates are the best fit for your feet. That actually might be a good starting point. If you can narrow it down, any shop worth its salt will order a pair or two for you to try.

You're cheap... but by my count you've bought 4 pairs of skates so far in your search to find a replacement for your current skates that you hope are only half-way spent. Even used, you're probably looking at $50 a pair, or $200 total you could have put towards a fitting and a new pair from your LHS. That is a mid-line Supreme S27 with a professional fitting, right there. I get it, I'm just like you. Figure I'll save money by doing a bit of research and finding something cheap that will be good enough. And when it isn't quite right, more research and another half-educated shot in the dark. And the pattern continues. Seldom do you get lucky and find the golden ticket on the first try. And seldom do you luck out and get out of the pattern before your total investment is less than it would have been had you just bucked up and had a proper fitting. If you want to cheap out, shoulders, elbows, pants are all good candidates. Skates, sticks, helmets would be at the bottom of my list, especially skates. LOL.

Looks good, just ordered a pack. Worth a shot.

Don't think the Vapor fit has changed significantly since a few generations previous to these. Narrow heel, slightly narrow forefoot. Relatively shallow instep depth. Length should be the same as any recent Bauers. I had a pair from the same generation. Needed a EE to get the width I needed and even then had to punch the sides in a few spots to make room.

Thanks. Good to know. I'm definitely a novice, so maybe it is right in my wheelhouse. And August will give me a bit to work on things in the meantime.

When you break it down, you are right, it is a good value. And I'm local, so no need to do the hotel stay. I might have to check it out.

There are actually a few, although I am wondering how "central NJ" the OP is, but the OP hasn't been back on the forum since October. So, I'm hoping he found one of the skates I am aware of, that are instructional in nature. @psulion22 thanks for the Weekend Warriors info. A bit pricey, but for what it is might be worth checking out.

A bit. I don't have large hands either (usually a size small or medium winter glove) and there is a bit of a difference between a Int and Sr stick from my experience. I didn't find it hard to adjust, but I think if I was switching back and forth between them, it might be more noticeable. I think it depends on the stick too, how the shaft is spec'ed. I have an Easton Stealth and Velocity and the Stealth feels closer to a Sr. shaft than the Velocity does. Both 65 flex Int sticks. I also tend to do either a spiral grip with twisted tape running under it or a grip I saw Kucherov do in a video (butt end gets 6-8 wraps of tape, then you move down and do 1 or 2 wraps less, then move down 1-2 wraps less, etc.). So I am adding a bit of bulk for my top hand.