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Flop_N_Pray last won the day on December 2 2017

Flop_N_Pray had the most liked content!

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  • Skates
    Vapor X800
  • Stick
    All the Warriors
  • Gloves
    Warrior Alpha
  • Helmet
    Bauer Reakt 150
  • Pants
    Easton PRO10
  • Shoulder Pads
    Easton PRO10
  • Elbow Pads
    Easton PRO10
  • Shin Pads
    Easton Mako M5
  • Hockey Bag
    Easton E300

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  1. To follow up, I answered my own question with a pair of 2017 Jetspeeds (specifically Xtra Pro / upgraded FT370 SMU) I picked up on Sideline Swap new for $100. They are perfect for my feet in 5D. Forefoot feels significantly wider right behind toebox than Supreme D but narrower than Vapor EE. Negative space above toes about the same as Vapors with Powerfoot inserts. Midfoot width also between Supreme D and Vapor EE. A shade closer to the Supremes. Heel /ankle narrower than Supreme D / roughly the same as Vapor EE. Depth from top eyelet to tendon guard closer to the Supremes. Depth at the instep slightly (like 1-2mm) higher than Vapor EE. And the tongue feels better out of the box. I really like the Vapor X800s now that they are broken in but the Jetspeeds fit even better.
  2. As someone it has worked for in the past, I notice three differences: (1) The way the pressure feels distributed at the top eyelet (where most people get bite) changes outside in, inside out, or with a lace lock loop. I'm confident I could tell the difference blindfolded if someone else tied my skates. (2) When you pull the each row tight inside out the pressure goes into compressing the tongue first. Outside in it goes into folding the eyelets over first. The same amount of "pull" leaves the skates a bit looser because there is more friction at each eyelet. It's also a little more awkward to grab / really reef on them once they are snugged up. (3) Outside in, especially with waxed laces, seems to keep tightness from moving down the boot, if that makes sense. That's usually my big issue as someone with a high instep. At the end of the day I think 90% is just the increased friction of outside in tricking you into lacing a little looser. It obviously doesn't create more physical volume in the skate. But if the placebo works for tons of people is it still a placebo?
  3. Fair question. Short answer? I just like to fiddle. Long answer. Each one is slightly better suited to certain tasks (stickhandling, sauce, flat passing, flip clears, etc). Just depends on my mood, what position I'm playing any given day, and the relative skill level of the game. P91A I use for stay at home D or forward if I'm going to do work down in the corners or park in front of the net looking for those trash goals. P88 or PM9 shooting a lot from the point or if I'm looking to pass first. Also my go to for shinny mostly to keep the puck down. P28 or P92 I'll pull out if I'm playing wing and looking to shoot first. W71/P77 I usually just use screwing around at stick and puck but sometimes at D if I'm feeling extra pinchy that day. Could I probably be better if I stuck to one? Maybe. But not enough to change my level of play at this point. I'm a good C or mediocre B level player at any position and with any curve and have no aspiration to play at a higher level in my mid-30s. It's the archer not the arrow. If anything I've found that playing different positions with different curves and different mindsets has improved my versatility, creativity, and hockey IQ far more that it hurts any part of my game. Occasionally I switch shooting hands for a game too and rotate between two skate models. Gotta keep things fresh. But I skate 3-4 times a week and spend 10-20 minutes a day doing dryland stickhandling so YMMV. To be clear I am not advising that switching curves constantly is a good idea. Just that if you are switching, there may be a better way to find the right length than just standing against the wall and chopping it the same as the other one.
  4. Like many others I've noticed that when switching curves just cutting sticks the same length - even if they are the same lie - results in less than optimal shooting power and accuracy and forces you to change mechanics. Cutting sticks to the same landmark on the body or even same measured length from base of blade to end of shaft fails to take into consideration three important variables: blade length, blade rocker, and curve "sweet spot" for shooting. I rotate up to six different curves: P91A, P88, PM9, W71, P28, and P92 and through trial and error found a length for each that maximizes my shooting. Switching between the curves is quite fluid (for me) with only minor adjustments to stickhandling and hand position when receiving passes. Here's where it gets wild: my P91A is 2.5" taller than my P28 when stood against a wall, and each stick is anywhere between 1/4" and 1" different from the next closest in length. I set out tonight to figure out how why it works (for me). I discovered that if I put a puck and my feet in fixed, marked locations, held my hands a fixed distance apart, cupped the blade over so the bottom felt flush (or in the case of the P28 so the toe lie was flush) and located the puck on the sweet spot (close to heel on P91A, up in the toe pocket for P28), my top hand ended up in . . . almost exactly the same spot, both in terms of location in space and amount of wrist roll. I used a mirror to confirm I wasn't cheating with posture adjustments. This was true on all 6 curves except the PM9 which was a little short / left my top hand further from the body. Coincidentally, I'm least accurate (shooting) with the PM9. Results were the same with chest facing the net and perpendicular. TL;DR: Consider using a fixed foot, puck, and hand position and seeing where the curve ends up, then adjust length to move the curve into the right spot, rather than chopping every stick at an arbitrary eyebrow/lip/chin/collarbone height.
  5. Baking and alternate lacing has helped with the Vapors quite a bit. Made a lace lock loop at the fifth eyelet from the bottom which takes pressure off my instep and also lets me lace the rest of the eyelets loose without it transferring back down into the foot of the boot. Got my Superfeet back in with no lace bite. Midfoot still feels a bit too roomy laterally but I can walk around on the toes of my blades with zero heel slip which is a first. Keeping an eye out for Jetspeeds at the right price but I think these may work for a while.
  6. Yeah depending on who you believe the Ribcor is either narrower and lower volume than a Vapor or there's a bunch of reviews on here from 70k line that say it is v-shaped with a medium high instep. And of course the local stores are heavy on Jetspeed and Supreme but have little to no Ribcor or Nexus. The heel lock for me is less a function of heel shape / size and more that the Vapor ankle locks me down better than the Supreme did for whatever reason.
  7. S29 were warranty returns (unrelated to the fit) so I'm in about $230 shipped on the Vapors, which I'm actually pretty confident I can make work with a combo of alternate lacing and a gel pad on that foot. There are a lot of good deals right now on junior clearance skates in my sweet spot (about two tiers down from the top) so if there is something a bit closer to that Goldilocks fit in retail I figured it's a decent time to go look. I'd have to eat the full cost of 3-5 clearance junior retail skates before I'm into custom money, and less than $100 returning a few pairs if the fit is glaringly wrong. I only baked the Vapors because they were/are very, very close. I'm cheap, not broke. I could go full custom now but considering my weight, level, and frequency of play, and my otherwise non-deformed feet, it might be worth at least trying on a few more retail skates. With that said, maybe there just isn't a v-shaped skate with a slightly higher instep than Vapors.
  8. My LHS is out due to terrible selection and terrible customer service. The next closest good shop is over an hour away and doesn't stock a lot of higher end skates in my size (Junior 5 / 247 ish holders). Over the past few years I've had: Graf 635 - heel too wide and hated the forward pitch. Made them work for years but the not much left of the runners so this year I was "fitted" by my LHS into Supreme S29 5.0D - a bit loose in the heel and a bit too snug from the midfoot forward but felt good after a stretch just behind the toebox. What I now know is too much volume through the top 5 eyelets (full finger under pencil test), which allowed heel lift after about 30 hours because I don't lace the tops of my skates very tight. Got warranty returned - long and unrelated story - and replaced with Vapor X600 5.0 EE - Heel lock is better and forefoot is better. Played a game in them before baking and they felt great, at first. Pencil test passes just barely on both skates with stock insoles but I get lace bite if I use Speedplates or Superfeet in them. Which I need for my med/high arches. Toebox feels good but midfoot does not feel as snug / pleasant as the Supremes did. Bauer scanner puts me in 5.5 D Supremes but says my feet are both between D and E width with my right foot being almost 1/4 size bigger. In 5.5 Supremes neither foot brushed the toe cap so scanner is definitely only a starting point as others have noted. So I'm looking for heel and toe fit similar to 2017 Vapor EE with slightly more volume and slightly snugger through the midfoot. The "good" shop I visited over an hour away recommended Jetspeeds but didn't have them in my size. Also not sure how much I trust them because they said the Supremes have better heel lock than Vapors which was not my experience at all. I would prefer to find a '17 model skate on clearance and save some $$$ if I can. Help?
  9. This thread brings back a bunch of memories. Nike skates, those were a hot commodity for a while lol. And I remember trying on early Vapors and thinking they were the most uncomfortable skate ever made. I coveted those high end skates as a kid especially the Graf line and we never had the money. My prize possessions were my garage sale CCM Tacks that were beat to death and (in retrospect) about 3 sizes too big. Still managed to play a lot of pond hockey on 'em.
  10. HM has a Easton Synergy 60 100 flex with an E28 curve that would probably work for a big guy like yourself. $40. That curve is a "new-school" toe curve good for stickhandling and snappers. You can also pick up a Sher-Wood 9950 wood stick for $50. 63" and pretty stiff. You don't need a $100 stick especially if you aren't playing games. If the last thing you touched was laminated wood / fiberglass or an aluminum shaft 2-piece, the most lowly of modern one-piece composites is going to feel like it just got custom built for you at NASA.
  11. Long time no post hope this thread ain't dead. Looks like the usual suspects in this thread were alive and well as of late September. Got the big BHL call-up a few weeks ago to go sub without strapping on the pillows for six months and came away with a big 3-1 W. Went to drop - in last week and played just for the joy of hockey. Got lit up because I gave it zero effort and had a ton of fun. Brought out a bunch of the retro moves - pad stack, Hasek roll, CuJo splits, old-school standup stance. I also skated the puck end to end and managed a wrap-around attempt that got stuffed. Capped the day off trying to Heisman pose my way through center ice with the puck in my glove when I was ingloriously body checked by one of my friends. Skating out in my league this season though so I feel like kind of a traitor. Yours in mismatched equipment inappropriate VH goodness, Flop
  12. Chirping at the other team when you don't have the skill to back it up makes you a joke and chirping at the other team when you are the best player makes you a tool. Chirping at yourself is always acceptable. Chirping at your teammates is ok sometimes when you have the social skills to read when it would be appropriate. You wear big steel blades on your feet, big plastic pads on your shins and carry a fancy space age stick to block shots with. Until you know how to use all three of those things at a highly proficient level the idea of laying out should never cross your mind. In large part because it's a good way to hurt yourself. And as a goalie, when you slide backwards into me doing that it is the one time we would ever have serious words on the ice. As far as not being seen as an over-aggressive "meat head" . . . maybe don't say things like you need to get used to the physicality of the game because you used to play DI red-rover football. I played college lacrosse, not that anybody cares about that either. It's a physical game and I was allowed to run over anyone within three feet of a loose ball and repeatedly whack people anywhere between the neck and the nuts with an aluminum pole if they had the ball. By reading the USA hockey rules I was able to realize those would be called "interference" "illegal body contact" and "slashing" and that they were considered naughty. As a mid I also had to sprint up and down a huge field all game without getting a break every ten seconds, so I had to adjust down to taking those short shifts when I started playing hockey. chirp chirp Hockey is a game of speed, skill, hockey sense, and teamwork with physicality coming in a distant fifth even in the checking game. Don't want to seem like a meat head . . . don't play like a meat head. It's that easy. Master your skating so you aren't a danger to others when you go hard into the corners. Play a lot to get a feel for who you can go hard against and who you need to slack off against. In the meantime play like you are trying to win the BHL Lady Byng and the rest of us have to go to work in the morning.
  13. #clearance I don't think I've ever spent more than $300 on skates, but I never buy this year's model. The $700 skate of 2014 is the $225 skate of today. However I am cursed / blessed with short, wide, high volume feet so I can always find my size left over. Getting holders mounted on your inline boots is an intriguing proposition as well . . . but you can get close to buying some clearance skates for the cost of really good holders and steel.
  14. Found your problems right there. If you feel like your weight is back and toes are up I would make a healthy wager you are not bending your knees enough and you are standing up as you progress through your turns. From my experience wearing Bauer, CCM, and Graf (and Tour, if you count inline) skates, if you feel like you're on your heels in Grafs sorry but it's not your skate, it's you - unless T-blades have some sort of insanely aft of neutral pitch. When I switched to Graf I felt like I was going to faceplant for the first thirty minutes. They have significantly more forward pitch than other boots so I really doubt needing more heel lift is your problem. I swear by Superfeet in my goal skates but that's because I've been skating long enough (20 years) to actually have an idea when I need to change something with my skate. The only reason I use Superfeet is because I have extremely high arches and standing in goal for an hour they feel better than having my foot collapse down. In player skates they take up way too much volume and pitch you forward too much as someone else already mentioned. Get someone to check your technique before you start trying to fix it with magic insoles or pulling off holders or any of this other nonsense. Have a tech make sure your holders are straight, your blades have the same profile, and they have a reasonable pitch to rule out an actual equipment issue. Then take the money you would have spent fixing stuff that ain't broke and take some lessons. If you spend 3-4 sessions with an actual coach and still can't get up on your toes, maybe then it's time to start monkeying with stuff. At the end of the day ice skating is ice skating is ice skating in any brand with any holder, in rec skates or hockey skates or goalie skates or figure skates or your friend's skates or skates that are three sizes too big.
  15. Well it's been a minute, but I finally have time to get out and skate again. First time on the ice since last season ended. This should be interesting.
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