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Larry54

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Everything posted by Larry54

  1. Larry54
    At around 0:20 in this video, we see him actually making a pencil tracing of a foot mold of Blake Wheeler's foot. So I guess the process has been tuned to fabricating with tracings. Even if you sent him a foot mold, he would just make a tracing of it on paper. http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-jets-players-wearing-locally-made-hockey-skates-1.2558666
  2. Larry54
    You can use the pronged T-Nuts and cut off the prongs with wire snips. What little is left of the prongs will be just enough to grab onto the surface and prevent the T-Nut from turning while you're tightening the screw.
  3. Larry54
    I'd go with the first of those two because its smaller barrel diameter is barely bigger than a rivet diameter so it might fit into the old rivet hole. And you should look for truss head screws instead of pan head screws because the head diameter is bigger and you wouldn't need washers.
  4. Larry54
    I found that the VH insoles took up more volume in the forefoot than the SIDAS customs, but because of their spongey compressible nature my heel sat slightly lower on the VH insoles. When I traced my foot and measured the circumference of the forefoot I wasn't standing so the forefoot ended up being a bit too tight with the VH insoles. With the SIDAS I managed to get them to fit just right.
  5. Larry54
    Are you sure they're 8-32 and not 6-32. I've worked with 6-32 T-nuts and even those were slightly bigger than the old rivet holes. You might be able to force 6-32 t-nuts in without drilling if you're not afraid of cracking the outsole, but from my experience there's no way an 8-32 t-nut will fit in an old rivet hole without enlarging it. The 8-32 screw itself fits snugly in the hole, but not the t-nut. BTW 6-32 T-nuts are plenty solid. I measured a few things for reference: Rivet diameter 4mm. 6-32 T-nut barrel diameter 4.4mm. 8-32 screw diameter 4.1mm. I don't have any 8-32 T-nuts around to measure but they're obviously bigger than 6-32 T-nuts. Edit: 6-32 screw diameter 3.4mm. Seeing that the 6-32 T-nut barrel is 1mm larger than the 6-32 screw, I would estimate that the 8-32 T-nut barrel is also around 1mm larger or around 5.1mm.
  6. Larry54
    Caseyjones, did you align the chassis with the boot or with the outsole? The reason I ask is that sometimes the outsole is not perfectly centered on the boot so if you align the chassis with the outsole, it may be mis-aligned with respect to the boot. And did you mark the center of the ice holder on the boot before removing it to install the chassis? If the skate was okay with the ice holder, you could have used its centre line as a reference to install the chassis.
  7. Larry54
    Just put a strip of tape across the heel, let it stick out past the edge and fold it over into a tab like in this picture. Then you just pull on the tab to remove it from your skate.
  8. Larry54
    I just noticed Bourque wearing them against the Flyers a few minutes ago.
  9. Larry54
    I've had my VH skates for almost a year now, and have gotten a few shots and passes off the toe caps without a problem. The carbon fibre on the toe cap is pretty thick.
  10. Larry54
    If you read AfftonDads post carefully, he was simply confirming Chadd's post, and I just confirmed AfftonDad's. No big deal.
  11. Larry54
    I checked his geometry in Photoshop and 3 degrees comes out to exactly what he drew.
  12. Larry54
    I've used the original close-out Sprung frame for several years without ever having any of the problems you've encountered. Maybe you really are over-tightening the screws but don't think you are. Or maybe the fact that I use Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 every time I re-assemble the screws makes the difference. With the Loctite you really don't have to tighten the screws very hard since the Loctite prevents them from unscrewing. And maybe the Loctite becomes a thin film that prevents screws from seizing or "welding" together. I've always applied Loctite to screws on any brand of chassis since my first Sure-Grip frames and highly recommend it.
  13. Larry54
    He talks about having started in these skates around 5 years ago. I guess he started with the MLX skates that Scott Van Horne helped design or maybe even the DASC skates. Near the beginning of the interview, he talks about adjusting the blades on his skates. I guess he had that feature carried over from the MLX skates. I wonder if VH would add that feature on request for custom skate clients. I personally wouldn't need it but it might interest some people with foot problems.
  14. Larry54
    In the first 2 pictures, that happened to mine and I glued it back down with epoxy and it's still OK after several months. It's purely cosmetic and I can see from MC88's pictures that stitching has been added in that area to prevent peeling of what appears to me to be some kind of mylar film, so I believe it shouldn't be a concern for new owners. Here's a picture of mine without the stitching. And a picture of MC88's skate with the new stitching. In the other two pictures it looks like damage from other skates during play, which would happen to pretty much any other brand of skates. I mean just look at the condition of his TUUK holder to get an idea of what the boots were probably also subjected to. Anyway, I've had mine since last summer playing a couple times per week and they're as solid as on the first skate.
  15. Larry54
    With my previous skates undoing the top 2 eyelets and loosening the rest was plenty. With the VH's I need to unlace the top 3 and loosen the rest. And to get the VH skate on, I need to insert my foot at a certain angle and slightly force it in. With my Flexlites, they just slipped on loosely.
  16. Larry54
    I couldn't even get mine on before molding them. I undo the top 3 eyelets to put them on or take them off.
  17. Larry54
    LOL, what an absurd analogy. We expect a sports car to be nice and shiny. It won't have pucks regularly bouncing off of it, sticks hitting it and skate blades slicing it. If the skate maker focuses 99% of his attention on the skates' performance and build strength and quality, and only 1% on appearance, that's fine with me, and seems to be fine with half of the Winnipeg Jets, and many Olympic speed skaters.
  18. Larry54
    ...and nicks and damage can happen as easily to t-blades. With regular blades the remedy is a sharpening, but with t-blades the only remedy is changing the runners. And if it happens right after a runner change, that nick becomes expensive. I know, I've had t-blades.
  19. Larry54
    Not quite tan, but close enough!
  20. Larry54
    The problem I had was mostly at the small toe just behind the toecap. The technique in this video would not work on the carbon fiber toe cap itself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POHTKh_XStE&feature=youtu.be
  21. Larry54
    As long as you don't have the Graf Custom footbeds in the skates while they're in the oven. Did you notice that the Graf custom insoles take up much less volume in the forefoot area than the thicker VH footbeds? How did you deal with that? Do you leave the red layer from the VH insole under the Graf custom insole? Did you re-mold the skates for the Graf insoles?
  22. Larry54
    I believe my VH skates are slightly lower cut than the Makos and after 5 games there isn't even a hint of that problem. I remember having some irritation there years ago when I wore RBK's that were a bit loose above the ankle. But I was improperly fitted for those. Could your problem be the Mako tongue? The VH tongue is nicely tapered at the edges so there is no gap around the ankle when the skate is tied, allowing for even pressure all around the ankle. From pictures I've seen, the Mako tongue looks thick and round at the edges. That would leave a gap right beside the tongue creating uneven pressure points around the ankle. Just a thought.
  23. Larry54
    I guess the second half of my post including the link wasn't worth quoting or commenting on. You know... the part explaining why the additional ankle extension is actually slowing you down.
  24. Larry54
    As far as I can tell, flexible tendon guards are over-rated, anyway. It seems like skate makers gave people something they wanted but don't really need. Personally, I feel absolutely no hindrance from a properly angled rigid tendon guard. Apparently, extending the ankle too far on the toe-push will actually slow you down... unless you're using clap skates. http://www.vhspeedskating.com/assets/Ankle_extension.pdf
  25. Larry54
    Well, my VH skates are lighter than my Flexlite 4 skates. And this photo from the VH Hockey website, of a size 6 skate with LS2 might put things into perspective. http://www.vhspeedskating.com/assets/images/hockey/size_6.jpg
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