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Larry54

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Everything posted by Larry54

  1. Larry54
    "This video is private".
  2. Larry54
    I wouldn't put all copper rivets. It's better to have a combination of both types of rivets. This is the combination that is working well for me.
  3. Larry54
    After around a year I noticed a couple of rivets loosening at the toe. I had the rivets on the 4 corners of the front tower replaced by copper ones. I've just started a 3rd hockey season with them and I haven't had any more rivet problems. Since you already have copper rivets at the back of the front tower. you could have the 2 at the toe replaced. I would have it done before they get loose, because once they are loose it puts more strain on the adjacent rivets, loosening them too.
  4. Larry54
    I only used the shoehorn during heat-molding to protect the thick foam in the lining at the heel which is susceptible to permanent deformation when it's hot. I've never needed the shoehorn to get them on during normal use. I admit that the area around eyelets 3 and 4 rubs the top of my foot very hard when I put the skate on, but it's not enough to cause any kind of damage to the foot unless I put them on and remove them 10 times in a row.
  5. Larry54
    I was wondering the same thing. I thought people were requesting this. I understand the NHL licensing situation but I also prefer having the logo, and as a very satisfied customer would feel sort of cheap asking them not to put their logo on it.
  6. Larry54
    The screws on my 2-year-old VH toe caps are stainless steel so they still look good as new. I noticed black (carbon steel?) screws in recent pictures. Maybe some customers didn't like the shiny dot on the toe cap so VH switched to carbon steel?
  7. Larry54
    I never had the rusted eyelets problem but I put my skates and gloves on this as soon as I get home. https://www.maxxdry.com/product/Heavy_Duty
  8. Larry54
    My skates are going on 2 years now and I never had that problem. I used a shoehorn during the baking process as recommended, but never after that. I do unlace the top 3 eyelets and really loosen the laces before putting them on or taking them off. It just seems like common sense to me to do so on such a rigid form-fitting skate.
  9. Larry54
    No, that was for the whole skate with an LS2 holder but it was a size 6.
  10. Larry54
    I don't understand what you mean by "drill in the screws". The T-nuts are threaded for a specific machine screw. If they're 6-32 T-nuts, then a 6-32 machine screw will screw into it with your fingers without any effort. On the other hand, if you're trying to force a sheet metal screw into a T-nut, or a wrong thread machine screw into it, you're looking for problems.
  11. Larry54
    In hindsight, they would have been better off charging US customers in US dollars from the start 2 years ago when the dollars were at parity. Then they wouldn't have to give free shipping today to appease the disgruntled.
  12. Larry54
    When VH Hockey skates came out 2 years ago. the Canadian dollar reached 99.8 cents US, almost parity, so Americans are paying around the same now in US dollars as they were when the skates came out, but US shipping is now free. Canadians are also paying the same now as when the skates came out 2 years ago, but Canadians still pay shipping. So what the f*** is everyone crying about... that Canadians are not paying even more? It looks like VH is trying to give everyone an equal opportunity to buy their skates, as opposed to the perceived "price gouging" that the big hockey companies do to Canadians because the market can bear it.
  13. Larry54
    That's how hockey gear has been in Canada as long as I can remember. Even when the dollar was at parity, Canadians still payed over 20% more than Americans even for articles made in Canada. Just wait a bit and if you're lucky the US dollar will come back down, and you'll feel better about paying the same price you're paying now for VH skates.
  14. Larry54
    They have authorized dealers in Georgia, Colorado, and Michigan. They also have authorized dealers in Germany, Switzerland, and Japan. Authorized VH dealers Feel better now?
  15. Larry54
    I assume you're talking about "shimming" the insole? In my experience, that's never as effective as adding a shim between the holder and the boot, or changing the pitch of the blade. No matter what you do with the insole, the lean or angle of the ankle area of the boot doesn't change so you're lower leg stays at the same angle relative to the ice. But it's a cheap mod so you have nothing to lose in trying it.
  16. Larry54
    Post a clip. I'd love to hear/see it!
  17. Larry54
    Who makes real custom skates that need shims, for crying out loud?
  18. Larry54
    Especially if you're accustomed to ice hockey, you don't want to have that front wheel sticking out too far.
  19. Larry54
    I've used 6-32 T-Nuts of that type before and they're flatter than the bulges created by steel rivets so feeling them would not be a problem. And if you air out your skates after every use like you should, they'll still rust but not any quicker than steel rivets. And they're stronger than steel rivets. But still my first choice, like I showed in post #884, would be copper rivets which I doubt will loosen in my lifetime.
  20. Larry54
    Hmm... The first rivets to loosen on my skates were at the toe so it made more sense to me to change those to copper. The biggest reason for changing the rivets at the rear of the front tower was because I always feel the bump a steel rivet makes right under the joint of my big toe.
  21. Larry54
    After a year and a half, I noticed the front rivets were a bit loose. So I had this done recently. Supposedly steel rivets are needed to prevent a holder from moving laterally but I think this should be a good combination of steel and copper rivets. And the fact that some of the synthetic leather goes between the holder and the composite VH boot provides plenty of lateral grip between the boot and the front tower. Maybe the rivet system that started back when steel holders were attached to leather boots has become inadequate for today's composite soles and needs to be replaced by something better. On the other hand, I just had a look at a 50-year-old pair of Super Tacks that I have in my basement and it has 2 copper rivets at the toe!
  22. Larry54
    I've done it to mount Sprung chassis on 2009 RBK 5K skates because Sprung recommended doing it that way, and when winter came around I put the E-Pro ice holders back on also using this T-Nut method. I had to slightly enlarge the old rivet holes to take the 6-32 T-nuts. I've also mounted Sprungs on Flexlite18 skates with this method.
  23. Larry54
    But the VH toe caps are thick, hard and seem very tough to me... a lot tougher than Plastidip, anyway. After a season and a half, mine are in very good condition except for a few nicks and scratches that any other skate's toe cap would have. Anything that can barely damage VH toe caps will destroy a rubber coating like Plastidip. It's like asking Woody Allen to be Mike Tyson's bodyguard. I think you're over-thinking this, but if tinkering makes you happy, don't let me stop you.
  24. Larry54
    I would have made both screws the same but I'm a bit OCD with that kind of stuff. :) BTW, why cover the toe caps? Is it for the look or is there a practical reason?
  25. Larry54
    I've done this and have never lost a screw while skating. Mine are the socket head type for an Allen key so it's easier to really tighten compared to a Philips head type. Otherwise you can put blue loc-tite on the screw threads.
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