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Larry54
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Everything posted by Larry54
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I've used 6-32 T-Nuts of that type before and they're flatter than the bulges created by steel rivets so feeling them would not be a problem. And if you air out your skates after every use like you should, they'll still rust but not any quicker than steel rivets. And they're stronger than steel rivets. But still my first choice, like I showed in post #884, would be copper rivets which I doubt will loosen in my lifetime.
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Hmm... The first rivets to loosen on my skates were at the toe so it made more sense to me to change those to copper. The biggest reason for changing the rivets at the rear of the front tower was because I always feel the bump a steel rivet makes right under the joint of my big toe.
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After a year and a half, I noticed the front rivets were a bit loose. So I had this done recently. Supposedly steel rivets are needed to prevent a holder from moving laterally but I think this should be a good combination of steel and copper rivets. And the fact that some of the synthetic leather goes between the holder and the composite VH boot provides plenty of lateral grip between the boot and the front tower. Maybe the rivet system that started back when steel holders were attached to leather boots has become inadequate for today's composite soles and needs to be replaced by something better. On the other hand, I just had a look at a 50-year-old pair of Super Tacks that I have in my basement and it has 2 copper rivets at the toe!
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I've done it to mount Sprung chassis on 2009 RBK 5K skates because Sprung recommended doing it that way, and when winter came around I put the E-Pro ice holders back on also using this T-Nut method. I had to slightly enlarge the old rivet holes to take the 6-32 T-nuts. I've also mounted Sprungs on Flexlite18 skates with this method.
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But the VH toe caps are thick, hard and seem very tough to me... a lot tougher than Plastidip, anyway. After a season and a half, mine are in very good condition except for a few nicks and scratches that any other skate's toe cap would have. Anything that can barely damage VH toe caps will destroy a rubber coating like Plastidip. It's like asking Woody Allen to be Mike Tyson's bodyguard. I think you're over-thinking this, but if tinkering makes you happy, don't let me stop you.
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I would have made both screws the same but I'm a bit OCD with that kind of stuff. :) BTW, why cover the toe caps? Is it for the look or is there a practical reason?
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I've done this and have never lost a screw while skating. Mine are the socket head type for an Allen key so it's easier to really tighten compared to a Philips head type. Otherwise you can put blue loc-tite on the screw threads.
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At around 0:20 in this video, we see him actually making a pencil tracing of a foot mold of Blake Wheeler's foot. So I guess the process has been tuned to fabricating with tracings. Even if you sent him a foot mold, he would just make a tracing of it on paper. http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-jets-players-wearing-locally-made-hockey-skates-1.2558666
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You can use the pronged T-Nuts and cut off the prongs with wire snips. What little is left of the prongs will be just enough to grab onto the surface and prevent the T-Nut from turning while you're tightening the screw.
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I'd go with the first of those two because its smaller barrel diameter is barely bigger than a rivet diameter so it might fit into the old rivet hole. And you should look for truss head screws instead of pan head screws because the head diameter is bigger and you wouldn't need washers.
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I found that the VH insoles took up more volume in the forefoot than the SIDAS customs, but because of their spongey compressible nature my heel sat slightly lower on the VH insoles. When I traced my foot and measured the circumference of the forefoot I wasn't standing so the forefoot ended up being a bit too tight with the VH insoles. With the SIDAS I managed to get them to fit just right.
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Are you sure they're 8-32 and not 6-32. I've worked with 6-32 T-nuts and even those were slightly bigger than the old rivet holes. You might be able to force 6-32 t-nuts in without drilling if you're not afraid of cracking the outsole, but from my experience there's no way an 8-32 t-nut will fit in an old rivet hole without enlarging it. The 8-32 screw itself fits snugly in the hole, but not the t-nut. BTW 6-32 T-nuts are plenty solid. I measured a few things for reference: Rivet diameter 4mm. 6-32 T-nut barrel diameter 4.4mm. 8-32 screw diameter 4.1mm. I don't have any 8-32 T-nuts around to measure but they're obviously bigger than 6-32 T-nuts. Edit: 6-32 screw diameter 3.4mm. Seeing that the 6-32 T-nut barrel is 1mm larger than the 6-32 screw, I would estimate that the 8-32 T-nut barrel is also around 1mm larger or around 5.1mm.
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Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion
Larry54 replied to cougarscaptain87's topic in Roller Hockey Equipment
Caseyjones, did you align the chassis with the boot or with the outsole? The reason I ask is that sometimes the outsole is not perfectly centered on the boot so if you align the chassis with the outsole, it may be mis-aligned with respect to the boot. And did you mark the center of the ice holder on the boot before removing it to install the chassis? If the skate was okay with the ice holder, you could have used its centre line as a reference to install the chassis. -
Just put a strip of tape across the heel, let it stick out past the edge and fold it over into a tab like in this picture. Then you just pull on the tab to remove it from your skate.
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I just noticed Bourque wearing them against the Flyers a few minutes ago.
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I've had my VH skates for almost a year now, and have gotten a few shots and passes off the toe caps without a problem. The carbon fibre on the toe cap is pretty thick.
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If you read AfftonDads post carefully, he was simply confirming Chadd's post, and I just confirmed AfftonDad's. No big deal.
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I checked his geometry in Photoshop and 3 degrees comes out to exactly what he drew.
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I've used the original close-out Sprung frame for several years without ever having any of the problems you've encountered. Maybe you really are over-tightening the screws but don't think you are. Or maybe the fact that I use Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 every time I re-assemble the screws makes the difference. With the Loctite you really don't have to tighten the screws very hard since the Loctite prevents them from unscrewing. And maybe the Loctite becomes a thin film that prevents screws from seizing or "welding" together. I've always applied Loctite to screws on any brand of chassis since my first Sure-Grip frames and highly recommend it.
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He talks about having started in these skates around 5 years ago. I guess he started with the MLX skates that Scott Van Horne helped design or maybe even the DASC skates. Near the beginning of the interview, he talks about adjusting the blades on his skates. I guess he had that feature carried over from the MLX skates. I wonder if VH would add that feature on request for custom skate clients. I personally wouldn't need it but it might interest some people with foot problems.
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In the first 2 pictures, that happened to mine and I glued it back down with epoxy and it's still OK after several months. It's purely cosmetic and I can see from MC88's pictures that stitching has been added in that area to prevent peeling of what appears to me to be some kind of mylar film, so I believe it shouldn't be a concern for new owners. Here's a picture of mine without the stitching. And a picture of MC88's skate with the new stitching. In the other two pictures it looks like damage from other skates during play, which would happen to pretty much any other brand of skates. I mean just look at the condition of his TUUK holder to get an idea of what the boots were probably also subjected to. Anyway, I've had mine since last summer playing a couple times per week and they're as solid as on the first skate.
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With my previous skates undoing the top 2 eyelets and loosening the rest was plenty. With the VH's I need to unlace the top 3 and loosen the rest. And to get the VH skate on, I need to insert my foot at a certain angle and slightly force it in. With my Flexlites, they just slipped on loosely.
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I couldn't even get mine on before molding them. I undo the top 3 eyelets to put them on or take them off.
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LOL, what an absurd analogy. We expect a sports car to be nice and shiny. It won't have pucks regularly bouncing off of it, sticks hitting it and skate blades slicing it. If the skate maker focuses 99% of his attention on the skates' performance and build strength and quality, and only 1% on appearance, that's fine with me, and seems to be fine with half of the Winnipeg Jets, and many Olympic speed skaters.
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...and nicks and damage can happen as easily to t-blades. With regular blades the remedy is a sharpening, but with t-blades the only remedy is changing the runners. And if it happens right after a runner change, that nick becomes expensive. I know, I've had t-blades.
