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Everything posted by flip12
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CCM has had a slew of fugly designs over the years, especially the Externo line comes to mind, but just about everything after the 952 was a belly flop in a surfing competition. I submit the Vector 10.0 as the ugliest and guiltiest of all time. Prior to this, skates were black, white and grey. Not the flashiest color palette but workable given the multitude of schemes every skate would invariably pair with, as well as the effect of wear and tear on their looks. Enter the 10.0, with it’s suitably repulsive name, and suddenly arbitrary colors were involved. They were impressively competent at finding a color which looks good with exactly no other color as well, just to touch bottom on the first go. Ever since that, skates’ looks have been been irrevocably tarnishes.
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I didn't use shrink wrap anywhere. I let the top three eyelets flare outward to allow for ankle rotation when I skate. It almost got me the same amount of room as in my 703's but not quite. Next time I bake them I'll wrap all the way along the foot up to the top three eyelets and leave them open again.
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They look considerably worse with the full striping.
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Definitely. There’s a direct correlation between viewing distance and attractiveness of this graphic.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CHtVC_dhz0L/?igshid=kq1u8e8e31mz
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If you have a lot of ankle aversion in your stride you might want to bake them snug over the foot and loose in the ankle. When I baked my MLX the last time, I didn’t lace the top three eyelets.
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SVH said their recommended bake time is 6 minutes.
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Byonic patented universal skate blades
flip12 replied to VegasHockey's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
Does it also fit the True Shift holder? -
You can test your hypothesis with lifts. No change to the steel so you’ll be certain what the forward pitch variable does. Everyone is different so predicting how it will affect you is quite difficult.
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The Goph M1s are incredible!
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I noticed that in the first go 'round. However, looking at it more carefully now, there's a notable difference in the articulation of the heels of the two skates. The heel of your custom boot is much more radiused. A visual guess at what an x-ray might reveal makes me think there's more negative space in that bottom triangle between the horizontal of the boot becoming the vertical. I have no doubt the stock boot would pass as bigger if we could slice both down the middle and inspect the volume better, both metrically and visually, but there are still some apples to oranges issues I'm seeing in the comparison itself, visual illusions that contribute to the perceived size difference.
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It's a bit hard to see much with any precision when looking at your pictures, @SkateWorksPNW. Your camera looks like it might be handheld because the floor line slants down to the left and you tend to put the smaller skate on the left. The skate on the right looks bigger in both cases, but in the True custom / True stock photo, it appears you might also be positioning the camera closer to the skates, which would make the scale different in the two shots.
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But I’m pretty sure they can be made in any mix of materials Graf has.
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The classic series also has great forward flex; -3 and -5 patterns. The gap between the top and second eyelets acts almost like an eyelet skip à la Crosby. The top eyelet being lower than other brands helps as well.
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They were the best skates ever! I like the look of the Graf toe cap, more than the other ones on the market. It’s classic. They should just make it more anatomical. I don’t know about skate manufacturing either, but I do have an idea that I think would be an interesting hybrid and might not even require any new tooling for Graf. I’ve never tried G7/707, but I thought they’d have more lateral flex than most skates. Forward flex on most Grafs is/was great. I haven’t tried anything newer than their tech-mesh G35s.
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I wrote to Graf CA’s Instaspam account about it and they said it would ruin the nice heel pocket they have on their boots. I see what they mean but they’re totally missing the point.
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Marner close to Easton Sakic. Mac close to Warrior Gionta.
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The Tacks really look like a mashup of Warp Zeros and Vapor X:60s with CCM’s patented Bloomin’ Onion cuff.
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In shoes and skates, the toe box is usually the issue, especially on my right foot. My big toes are the longest and I've had some otherwise great fitting footwear that cause almost unbearable pain on my right big toe because I'm stubborn enough to wear the shoes in. With Graf, I can comfortably fit a 10 if it's a wider forefoot skate, like the 501 or 701, but the 703 is just a tiny bit too compressed at the outer tip of my right big toe. With the 9.5 TF7s I found I could feather the cap, but my toes didn't feel compressed by either the length or the width of the toe box. It's a roomy design without feeling cavernous, maybe because the TF7 has that thicker tongue and I didn't try on TF9s.
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Buddy's wearing 1.5 bigger now, sounds like. Maybe the X and Y were reversed at scan time?
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TF9 8 R or W? What size and make Grafs was buddy wearing?
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2 sticks, same length. One feels way shorter than another?
flip12 replied to Robs789's topic in Ice Hockey Equipment
Possibly different balance points / swing weights. I used to be superstitiously insistent on a certain blade lie and stick length combo. Turns out it’s feeling in tune with the swing weight that makes or breaks a stick’s play for me. If other parameters are the same but balance is different, they’ll feel like two very different sticks. It other parameters are different but the balance is what your body expects, those other parameters don’t matter. That’s how it is for me at least. -
I just tried on some TF7s. My MLX are a size 10 and my right foot, which is slightly longer than my left, touches the toe box with slightly more than feathering pressure. I tried the TF7s in 10.0R and was swimming and felt like my arch didn’t line up with that of the boots; 9.5W felt like I could sharpen them and go without any baking, though the heel felt a bit relaxed; 9.5R felt on the money: snug, with even pressure everywhere except across the forefoot—there it was a touch too tight, but I’m confident a bake would fix that—toes were feathering the toe cap more ideally than they do in my 10 MLX. Now I wish I had tried 9.0W + R, but that’ll have to be for another day.
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What little things need to be adjusted? Can you give some examples?
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It's probably not as bad now that their toe caps are plastic, but on my MLX, my right big toe sits with a firm brush against the toe cap and I think I got mild frostbite every time I wore thin socks in those boots. I'd love a little foam there. I could add some myself, but haven't gotten around to it.