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DarkStar50

LS/LS2 Holders - Durability?

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This question is specific to the LS/LS2 holders ONLY!! We all know about the steel problem last season. I am interested in guys doing repair work in shops with Lightspeed holders. In my shop our repairs on broken Lightspeed holders is practically zero. The only time we change a Lightspeed holder is when a player has abused and cracked the Lightspeed steel. We notice the used Lightspeed holder is usually "stretched" where the hardware holds the blade in place. We replace the steel with a new holder at that time to keep the new steel in a fresh holder. Other than that example, the holders hardly ever come in cracked. The previous Tuuk Custom + holder was a constant repair job all season long. That product repair has also been less since there are more Lightspeed holders in the marketplace and on higher end skates.

What is happening in your area with this holder on a repair situation?

Peter

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The LS stretching problem has been far worse than custom+ stretching and breakeage in this area.

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As for cracking, haven't seen much difference between the two, they both hold up pretty well. We don't replace many LS2, the plus's maybe a doz a year from cracks caused by shots.

Seen the same damage from tightening the nut too much, and of course LOTS of mismounted holders, but that's QA not durability related.

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I'm in a rush and this was the first lightspeed topic I found when searched, and I was wondering if someone who isn't a shop owner and stuff could fix the problems of the blade screw coming loose in the lightspeed 1's without having to de rivet it and use lock-tite or anything.

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I'm in a rush and this was the first lightspeed topic I found when searched, and I was wondering if someone who isn't a shop owner and stuff could fix the problems of the blade screw coming loose in the lightspeed 1's without having to de rivet it and use lock-tite or anything.

The LS1 hardware should not just come "loose". You should always use loctite on any hardware. You don't need to remove rivets to get at the nut, just remove footbed and pry off plastic cap. Unless of couse you have one of the skates that doesn't have the access holes drilled, then you can dril a hole yourself.

If you can get the LS2 harware it is better.

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I'm in a rush and this was the first lightspeed topic I found when searched, and I was wondering if someone who isn't a shop owner and stuff could fix the problems of the blade screw coming loose in the lightspeed 1's without having to de rivet it and use lock-tite or anything.

The LS1 hardware should not just come "loose". You should always use loctite on any hardware. You don't need to remove rivets to get at the nut, just remove footbed and pry off plastic cap. Unless of couse you have one of the skates that doesn't have the access holes drilled, then you can dril a hole yourself.

If you can get the LS2 harware it is better.

So it's possible to change it through that little freakin hole? :ph34r:

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I'm in a rush and this was the first lightspeed topic I found when searched, and I was wondering if someone who isn't a shop owner and stuff could fix the problems of the blade screw coming loose in the lightspeed 1's without having to de rivet it and use lock-tite or anything.

The LS1 hardware should not just come "loose". You should always use loctite on any hardware. You don't need to remove rivets to get at the nut, just remove footbed and pry off plastic cap. Unless of couse you have one of the skates that doesn't have the access holes drilled, then you can dril a hole yourself.

If you can get the LS2 harware it is better.

So it's possible to change it through that little freakin hole? :ph34r:

Yes. LS1 require a allen wrench. Easy to do.

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Does the LS2 hardware need an Allen Wrench as well? Any instructions for a person who has never tightened them before? The hole is drilled.

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Here are pix of the difference between LS1 and LS2.

Top view of female nuts/male

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a275/hoc...ey/0b932159.jpg

Note how the LS2 doesn't have lock tight on the male, but has a plastic insert in the female. This is to lock the male tighter in when it reaches the plastic insert. Also see how the LS2 male can be screwed tighter farther, so the blades don't become loose over time. Also, see how the circle on the male of LS2 is slightly bigger than the LS1's. This LS2's circle fits perfectly in the circle of both LS1 and LS2 runners, so it cannot turn in butter, and make the holder become soft and wide.

Bottom view of Female nuts/male

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a275/hoc...ey/2cff5705.jpg

Look how the thread of the LS2 nuts start deeper than on LS1. This is to allow you to center you male inside the female easier to start screwing, whereas the LS1 was a pain to center male and female together. Yes, the female is deeper on the LS2...

As a result, you can use LS2 hardware with both LS1 and LS2 runners and holders, as long as you have the right male/female couple.

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Sorry to bring up an old topic, but I certainly wasn't going to make a new LS1/LS2 thread...I had enough to choose from already.

I have LS1 holders/steel on my Vapor XV's, and I noticed a rattle in one of my skates today. It sounded like something was moving around in the holder. The steel didn't feel loose to me, but I tightened the nut a little. The rattle went away, and I just hope I didn't over tighten the nut. It didn't really seem to 'catch' very much. Almost like I could've kept on tightening it, but I didn't because I don't want to strip it. I'm also a little puzzled about the rattle. What exactly was moving around in there? I'll probably bring it into the shop tomorrow, but do you guys think I should ask them to replace the hardware, holders, or anything?

Thanks,

Matt

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It sounds like you did the right thing, especially by not over tightening the nut on the screw. The holder may be fatigued and stressed as this is an older skate. The nut and screw may start spinning in the holder if you try to tighten it too much. That is the beginning of the end. If you need a new holder, check out how much the repair will be against buying new skates down the road. Your $(if you can afford it and depending on condition of your skates) might be better spent on new skates.

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Thanks for the advice. I don't need new skates yet because the boots are still in good shape. I bought them in the middle of the season last year. I'll talk to my shop guys about getting new hardware. Thanks again.

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A 5/16" nut driver is what we use. The 8mm is just a bit larger than the nut, and sometimes spins out on old rusted ones.

There were definitely some problems with the LS stretching, but they seem to have solved it with the LS2. Have not had any more problems with blades that feel loose when fully tightened. Also have yet to see a broken LS2. Still early to know for sure, but so far they seem very durable.

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I found a 8mm socket wrench, but the bolts seem to be tight. It's only the front portion of the steel that is loose and there aren't any holes drilled there.

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Probably a stretching problem. Front hook area would always be loose on older LS holders, depite proper tightenting of rear bolt--and I never tighten the bolt with more than finger strength. As a precaustion to stretching, never palm the whole driver as you turn the bolt.

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