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cougarscaptain87

Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

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That is SICK.

I really want to get a set of sprungs, but i really like the vanguard set up.

How much to get a pair of the torspo sprungs in 10.5 sent up to victoria, bc, canada? Your inbox is full. You probably know that.

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just mounted my ccm vector u pro stocks with my mission mg vanguard with the revision variant and my super swiss 6 ball bearings, i skate tomorrow night so well see whats the deal with this boot.

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just curious, how big of a difference does it make using aluminum Vangard over the Magnesium? My Lieutenant skates with the aluminum feel really heavy but I can't tell if that weight is from the boot or from the chassis. I want to put them on my Tour cobalts possibly but I wonder if it would feel weird pairing a heavier chassis with a really light boot.

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These are roller hockey skates. They came like the picture, then I pulled the ice holders to mount A8's. Then a veteran Sprungster skated around in Joe Noris' S50's with A8's and asked for a pair with the blades still on them to finish out his AAA 19U ice championships. When ice is over, maybe the A8's will go on for his roller season. More likely, he'll keep the S50's for ice and go with the 200's for roller. His dad's also on converted A8's.

S50-10-ice.jpgS200TorspoA8.jpg

nice skates .. which wheels are one the torspos? thanks

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just curious, how big of a difference does it make using aluminum Vangard over the Magnesium? My Lieutenant skates with the aluminum feel really heavy but I can't tell if that weight is from the boot or from the chassis. I want to put them on my Tour cobalts possibly but I wonder if it would feel weird pairing a heavier chassis with a really light boot.

im not sure on the actual number of grams it is, but its not a huge difference. i skate on the mg becasue its lighter and stronger and i get it at a discount so it was cheaper then the aluminum one at retail. but i have mounted the aluminum one on a pair of pro tacks, and it didnt feel heavy at all. the chassis them selves are light, when you add on wheels and bearings is where the weight adds up.

which wheels are one the torspos? thanks

looks like the clear labeda gripper turned around to me

Edited by cougarscaptain87

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http://img112.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00409ov2.jpg

i managed to get a picture up

thanks for the help

did you have any trouble with the holes on the bottom of the skate and fitting the frame around them (I hope that makes sense to you)? I bought the skates for this same conversion a couple of days ago and just noticed the holes and thought they could be a problem.

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http://img112.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00409ov2.jpg

i managed to get a picture up

thanks for the help

did you have any trouble with the holes on the bottom of the skate and fitting the frame around them (I hope that makes sense to you)? I bought the skates for this same conversion a couple of days ago and just noticed the holes and thought they could be a problem.

When you have them lined up left and right, forward and rear, check out the two front center holes. If thy are clear, do them first. When the frame is anchored it's much easier to drill holes that are almost overlaping. If the two center holes aren't clear, try to find one on each side in the front to nail. If you have two in front, you can still adjust slightly at the rear, and they can still be pounded around some before drilling the rest of the holes.

As for the paper wrap spring shim, I'll get some pictures up. Here's what it is, though.

If your front rockers are loose, remove them and take out the springs. Cut a strip of reg 24 lb computer/typing paper the width of the springs. Take the first spring and wrap the paper around under the spring, with the edge of the paper right at the edge of the lip at the top side. Mark where the lip hits the paper on the opposite side and cut it. You should now have a strip of paper that wraps from one lip, under the spring and up to the opposite lip of the spring.

Take the wrapped spring and position it between two rocker arms and push them together hard until the vertical flanges on the rocker arms break through the paper into the recesses in the spring. Put the pair back into the frame and you will have brand new tolerances that keep your front pair tight for another long period. Just like the shims on rocker arm springs in cars that keep the rockers tight enough so they don't stay open or float at high RPMs.

Also, I just received a picture of the best dye job I have ever seen on Sprungs, or anything else for that matter. I told him to post them dyed and also mounted. KILLERS!

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