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Bo from Boston

Stealth for sale on EBAY

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The tapered handle is apperantly built into all of Bert's OPS, this one obviously, Kosy said he saw the reponses like that, and I've heard the same about his Synergy Grips. I'm still kicking myself for not grabbing one of those Grip Synergy's when they had'em in Brantford.

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I remember hearing during a game once that he started shaving down his wood sticks in juniors, and taped all the way to the end of the taper, and hes stuck with it.

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That Selanne Stealth is such a piece, you honestly cant expect it to be worth more than Bert's Stealth. Plus Selanne is having a carrerr low season and Bert.... well he is in his own pile of ****. The stealths look really good up close dont kno about the actual performance and also Selanne uses a candy cane tape job and that can sometimes ruin the shafts graphics. Ya and if someone buys that Bert GI stick, good luck u better be equivalent to this beast's size cuz u can bet that it will be one stiff stick.

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Selanne told us it is the best stick he has ever used. Granted it's an NHL player and these guys switch often.

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Honestly, that says a lot, as Selanne used wood his entire career...

LOL I'm open to testing...I'm quite good at it *nudge, nudge, wink, wink*

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I haven't even had the chance to try one yet. I'm hoping to pick up a couple once the season ends.

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i think id commit grand larceny to try one in a Gagne.

in all seriousness, the picture looks like the stick has a rubber response like texture, whats that all about?

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i wouldnt say berts stick is very stiff, i mean we all know hulls shafts, datsyuks are under 100, roloston is about 90 (from what i have used) and i would say 1/2 of the pro stock sticks i get are 90-100 flex.

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I'd love to give one a shot to compare to the other OPS I've used. As for Bert's flex, most guys 6-4 200+ use a fairly stiff stick, at least that I've seen.

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As I understand, it is actually fused, just in a different place. It's a much lower fuse point.

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The fuse point is thick in the middle, just like my womens. If the thing busts it's being sent to F-L-A for its autopsy, so we'd know more then.

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I wonder if the "thick" fuse point negates the lowness of the fuse point. I'm guessing it doesn't, but it seems like it could have an adverse effect (even if minor).

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Because the fuse point is lower, the joint itself is stronger. The ones I've seen breaking, snap much higher than the actual fuse point. That most likely means they're breaking due to slashes and not other problems.

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I doubt it has anything to do with the new mold, who knows, but this thing's taken a beating and is holding up well. Maybe it's the 2" of goop that was on it but it's a champ.

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I'm a firm believe that taper sticks break because the load is distributed unevenly through the shaft. With the fuse point being stronger, it makes me think that the force is transferred above the fuse point, where the stick will most likely break. Then again, I haven't tried one and don't know for sure.

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There's always going to be a point that gets stressed the most and it has to be hard to find the perfect point of balance, weight, durability and balance. They seem to be breaking at the flex point. Is that because of a sacrifice in durability made to make it lighter or balance better or because of abuse taken in that area? No way to know really.

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