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iceburg19

Sprung Hockey

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wow ,nice. thats a high end skate..I was using the addictions for quite some time and then got hooked on the new rink rat hornet splits. both great wheels that go great with the sprung frame. One other Idea i have is ,I keep all my extra rocker arms in a tuppa ware bowl of water to keep them from drying out.

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One other Idea i have is ,I keep all my extra rocker arms in a tuppa ware bowl of water to keep them from drying out.

I do the same thing and also try to take the rockers off about once a month if I get a chance and it seems to have helped. I had a few cracked knuckles last year, but haven't had any so far this year. I'm still looking forward to the A6X arms though.

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can someone or keith give me the scoop on the hi/lo caffeine sprungs that are being developed?

im primarily an ice player but sometimes play inline. i liked my a7 sprungs but have recently switched back to my favorite frame: the original 80-80-72-72 hi/lo because of their pitch and compact design. i liked the suspension of the sprungs but i switched back for two reasons:

1) i don't like the pitch of the sprungs. i prefer a more aggressive pitch. inline frames seem flat footed to me (i skate graf 703s with a minor reverse pitch so my ice skates are somewhat typical). i realize i could use a heel lift on the sprungs, but they are already a really tall frame. i don't like being that far off the ground because it is less stable.

2) i don't like the long wheelbase of the a7. because of my size (size 8 in ccm/bauer, 8.5 graf), i'm just a little to big for a6's but the a7's have too long of a wheelbase for me.

to me it seems only logical that the up and coming sprung 80-76 or 84-80 hi/los have a more aggressive pitch than the straight 80 version. so this may solve my pitch dilemma. and i believe keith already said they will have a shorter wheelbase too.

i guess with all that said, my only question is will the caffeine pitch be different than the straight version? an all mag version sprung with shorter wheelbase and more pitch would be my dream frame. please keith!

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wow ,nice. thats a high end skate..I was using the addictions for quite some time and then got hooked on the new rink rat hornet splits. both great wheels that go great with the sprung frame. One other Idea i have is ,I keep all my extra rocker arms in a tuppa ware bowl of water to keep them from drying out.

Thanks for the feedback. Now that I have played 3 games, I am getting more used their benefits. Regarding the wheels, I am still experimenting with different combinations. Chatting with Rob at Labeda, he indicated that concrete is very difficult to get a consistent combination that works, as the surface changes from day to day with humidity, barometric pressure, temperature, etc. So it makes it difficult to find one set of wheels that work every time! He suggested that single durometer wheels such as the Gripper in a harder compound works best. So I have a set of Yellow Grippers (medium hardness) on order. The softest durometer wheels seem to be more slippery then harder ones. Seems odd, but I have experienced exactly as Rob suggests. The Red Addictions were more slippery the then Orange and the Grippers seem to work even better. When I read that the Sprung's allowed the use of harder wheel compounds, I was eager to try the Yellow Grippers, to see if they will really pay off. I will give an update once they arrive and I give them a spin.

Regarding your great idea on soaking extra rocker arms, maybe it would be a good idea to have a complete set of extra rocker arms (A7's) for one chassis at least, so that you could re-hydrate one set while using the others and just rotate them into usage one skate at a time. Some people say every week, some say each month. I'm guessing, the more often that you play the more frequent you would need to change them? I think I will be calling Jeff at SinBin to get his thoughts on this concept.

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Sprungster did mention to just wrap the chassis in a wet towel to hydrate them.

That sounds like another good idea. So, just remove the wheels and wrap a wet towel around all of the rocker arms and the base as well. I'm sure the base also needs to be re-hydrated as well.

What do most of you do to re-hydrate your Sprung's?

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That sounds like another good idea. So, just remove the wheels and wrap a wet towel around all of the rocker arms and the base as well. I'm sure the base also needs to be re-hydrated as well.

What do most of you do to re-hydrate your Sprung's?

I recently remounted my sprungs after about 26 months of use & soaked them overnight while they were off the boots. I was remounting because I originally used zinc coated t-nuts I got from the local Lowe's to mount them & they were rusting out pretty good. I replaced them with some stainless steel t-nuts I ordered from BoltDepot.com. This is the first time I've soaked any of the parts on my sprungs since I've had them, & I really haven't noticed any difference. For the record, I've yet to experience any breakage issues, & that's saying something given that I'm a fat-ass (~260+ lbs), hard skating d-man that blocks shots & has been known to crash feet first into the boards on occasion.

As for soaking your chassis, I'd probably remove the arms & just sit the boots in a tray full of water that was just deep enough to not touch the actual sole of the boots when the chassis is submersed & fully soak the arms seperately.

Edit:26 months, not 14

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I worked years ago in a plastics manufacture. Soaking of plastics is there called "conditioning". If you interest at more information read this: conditioning

Frank from germany

Hey Frank, thanks for the clarification. The white paper was quite interesting, although probably more technical then most people playing Roller Hockey will ever need to know! All that being said, the bottom line is that "conditioning" our Sprung chassis and rocker arms will be of great benefit improving strength and durability. The article talked about alot of different plastic compounds, not sure what material the Sprungs are actually made of. Maybe Keith could jump in and comment.

In the end, I guess I'm looking for a recommendation on how frequently I would need to condition the chassis. Noting that I play on alot of different environments. My spring-summer league (which I play 3 times a week) is on indoor smooth concrete. My late-summer league (twice a week) is on smooth but heated concrete. In the winter (once a week) we have sportcourt.

I am really looking forward to seeing the impact of using Sprung's and going back and forth between ice and inline skates every week this coming winter.

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The A7 and A8 production is done. I'm waiting on the last A6X drawings and if they're OK, the mold mods will get done ASAP and the A6X will come alive, finally. Have to work out a bit of shipping, but we'll have the first product in about a week and the A6X soon after that.

For those of you who pre-ordered, thanks for your patience and participation. The pre-sale has six days left.

Keith

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Hey Frank, thanks for the clarification. The white paper was quite interesting, although probably more technical then most people playing Roller Hockey will ever need to know! All that being said, the bottom line is that "conditioning" our Sprung chassis and rocker arms will be of great benefit improving strength and durability. The article talked about alot of different plastic compounds, not sure what material the Sprungs are actually made of. Maybe Keith could jump in and comment.

In the end, I guess I'm looking for a recommendation on how frequently I would need to condition the chassis. Noting that I play on alot of different environments. My spring-summer league (which I play 3 times a week) is on indoor smooth concrete. My late-summer league (twice a week) is on smooth but heated concrete. In the winter (once a week) we have sportcourt.

I am really looking forward to seeing the impact of using Sprung's and going back and forth between ice and inline skates every week this coming winter.

The climate conditions of where you live have a big effect as to the hydration levels of the sprung parts. Here in Alberta we have dry weather, generally, and I recommend to all of our customers to soak the arms and springs every 10 days. This may be overkill but it has virtually eliminated breakage. Secondly, this regular removal of hard ware to separate the arms seems to keep the hardware from getting stuck in the nylon parts - fusing, if you will. Also, the knuckles can get crammed full of grime from regular use and the removal and cleaning of these areas ensures smooth movement allowing the spring to do its thing.

All part of a regular maintenance plan that all inline skates require, especially if you are to expect the performance and durability that a product like sprung can offer.

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Thanks Jeff, much appreciated info. Here in Ontario it is quite humid especially in the summer, much drier in the winter though.

So I think once every other week sounds safe enough in the summer for our climate.

Thank you very much for the recommendations... It's no wonder Keith has you distributing his product, you guys are top notch!

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The mag alloy Caffeine is next. What ever version is made, it will rip the balls off everything else in the market. We are looking for development partners and since it isn't "plastic", it has a much better chance to OEM on either RBK/CCM as all 80s, or Bauer as a 76/80 or maybe even the ultimate roller hockey chassis, the Sprung 80/84. We will be exclusive with whoever it ends up being. And make the other version for the aftermarket.

CaffeineT.jpg

Caffeine-Duo.jpg

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The mag alloy Caffeine is next. What ever version is made, it will rip the balls off everything else in the market. We are looking for development partners and since it isn't "plastic", it has a much better chance to OEM on either RBK/CCM as all 80s, or Bauer as a 76/80 or maybe even the ultimate roller hockey chassis, the Sprung 80/84. We will be exclusive with whoever it ends up being. And make the other version for the aftermarket.

keith, please tell me the hilo version will have more pitch than the straight version.

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keith, please tell me the hilo version will have more pitch than the straight version.

Right now I can tell you that the current A line frames have the most pitch in the industry, and the A6 has always had the same pitch as the old Mission Hi-Lo and more than some of the later 72/80 models. It's the same pitch I used on my original aluminum prototypes. I arrived at the original and current toe plate pitch and curve by modifying the tilt of the old Hi-lo plate, and lining the tow mount plates up so they would automatically kiss the front and rear of the new, more rigid ice boot soles without having to bend the boot one or two inches to reach the heel plate. I checked it against every boot on the market to find the best curve. And the toe tip curl up at the end to push through. Anybody who has mounted Sprungs will have noticed that when the frame is in the right place forward to rear, there's rarely more than a sixteenth of an inch anywhere between it and the boot bottom.

A player was with me, recently, when I mounted Humm'ers on his Total Ones. He and I both freaked out at the amount I had to bend the boot to get it to reach the heel plate, and he's been on Humm'er remounts forever.

And with all that said, I guarantee it will have an aggressive pitch. In case you haven't noticed, different boots have different pitches built in, and some are pretty radically different from others. My Eastons were my fav forward pitch.

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Right now I can tell you that the current A line frames have the most pitch in the industry, and the A6 has always had the same pitch as the old Mission Hi-Lo and more than some of the later 72/80 models. It's the same pitch I used on my original aluminum prototypes. I arrived at the original and current toe plate pitch and curve by modifying the tilt of the old Hi-lo plate, and lining the tow mount plates up so they would automatically kiss the front and rear of the new, more rigid ice boot soles without having to bend the boot one or two inches to reach the heel plate. I checked it against every boot on the market to find the best curve. And the toe tip curl up at the end to push through. Anybody who has mounted Sprungs will have noticed that when the frame is in the right place forward to rear, there's rarely more than a sixteenth of an inch anywhere between it and the boot bottom.

A player was with me, recently, when I mounted Humm'ers on his Total Ones. He and I both freaked out at the amount I had to bend the boot to get it to reach the heel plate, and he's been on Humm'er remounts forever.

And with all that said, I guarantee it will have an aggressive pitch. In case you haven't noticed, different boots have different pitches built in, and some are pretty radically different from others. My Eastons were my fav forward pitch.

thanks keith. i guess the a7's have less pitch than the a6's? because it seems that my mission 80-72 chassis have more pitch than my a7's. regardless, i am really looking forward to the all mag version.

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thanks keith. i guess the a7's have less pitch than the a6's? because it seems that my mission 80-72 chassis have more pitch than my a7's. regardless, i am really looking forward to the all mag version.

I'll have to check, but the A7 probably has at least a quarter of an inch more pitch than the Vanguard. The advantage with suspension is you can set pitch and then weight distribution can make it neutral or reverse as needed. If you use the balls of your feet more for a while the weight transfer starts to change. When you push off with Sprungs, you have the most pitch there's every been on inlines. Sort of more like ice?

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I was going to add a heel lift because i felt like I couldn't get on my toes. But decided against it, because I felt balance while skating. So, I contributed it to being on two wheels for longer time while kicking off during accelerating compared to a rigid chassis.

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A player was with me, recently, when I mounted Humm'ers on his Total Ones. He and I both freaked out at the amount I had to bend the boot to get it to reach the heel plate, and he's been on Humm'er remounts forever.

And with all that said, I guarantee it will have an aggressive pitch. In case you haven't noticed, different boots have different pitches built in, and some are pretty radically different from others. My Eastons were my fav forward pitch.

I just recently installed a set of A7's onto my Bauer Vapor RX:60's, size 10D, and I must say that the natural curvature of the outsole matches the pitch of the A7 near to exact! We were quite surprised that it was so closely matched, virtually no flexing of the outsole required at all. What was even more surprising, was that the OEM Vanguard chassis that we removed required more flex of the outsole then the A7. So Keith's statement that the A7 has more pitch then the Vanguard would be quite accurate.

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Hey guys,

Just about to attempt my first conversion. I have a pare of 2010 commander SE Black and blue Boots (thanks to fatwabbit) and an a6 frame. Has anyone done this conversion as I would like to double check I have found the centre lines etc before i drill into the boot. I got the boot with the frames pre removed and would like to get it right first time.

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