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iceburg19

Sprung Hockey

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The best way to get a rusted pivot pin out, without making it worse, is to drill out the end of the pin through the center of the nut. Before you replace it, you can use the head to seat a little circle of white paper saturated with super glue into the stretched socket. Let it dry, and put it together. It's good practice to loosen and re-tighten them once in a while, and always back them off a little from fully tightened. Email me and I'll send you a new one. There should have been an extra in the package with the wheel axles.

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The best way to get a rusted pivot pin out, without making it worse, is to drill out the end of the pin through the center of the nut. Before you replace it, you can use the head to seat a little circle of white paper saturated with super glue into the stretched socket. Let it dry, and put it together. It's good practice to loosen and re-tighten them once in a while, and always back them off a little from fully tightened. Email me and I'll send you a new one. There should have been an extra in the package with the wheel axles.

I have the same issue with a couple pivot pins (I have spare pins already, but need to get the old ones out) - what's the best type of bit and size to use to drill it out?

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I have the same issue with a couple pivot pins (I have spare pins already, but need to get the old ones out) - what's the best type of bit and size to use to drill it out?

I used a dremmel and worked out well

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my sprungs adapted skates, 2nd pair is credited to wetwilly17, I still need to remove the boots and put some of my own.

img2012110600023.jpg

U+PRO RLD, Revision steel 8x76mm on A6.

img2012110600022.jpg

Mission Proto VSI on multiple wheels, Black A7

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Recently, one of the Major wheel companies told us that Sprungs were great for ice players, on outdoor courts, but they weren't necessary for indoor courts. They said that you could get the same performance (as suspension) with their new wheel tech. Of course, they also tell players, using Sprungs, that Sprungs don't work. The world will be in awe when a wheel replaces suspension.

Sprungs outperform all rigid frames regardless of what magical, over-designed, hard-to-make wheel they use. And they can do it using simple, cheap, long lasting, single pour wheels.

In the same vane as my frame pitch info, here's a piece of wheel info. As long as I've been around inline skates (since '95), I've noticed that the wheels do not sit firmly between the bearings, but pop back an forth from side to side. This seems to be because the standard space between the bearings, on most wheels, is .499", while all bearing spacers, whether .25" or 8mm., plastic or metal, are exactly .50".

You can't have the wheels seated on both bearings at the same time, so they pop back and forth. And that .01" pop eventually warps the bearing seats and the wheels gets sloppy. I do recall one company making the center space .501", for a while, and you always heard the spacers jingling around in the wheels.

Why is this?

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I've noticed that the wheels do not sit firmly between the bearings, but pop back an forth from side to side. This seems to be because the standard space between the bearings, on most wheels, is .499", while all bearing spacers, whether .25" or 8mm., plastic or metal, are exactly .50".

You can't have the wheels seated on both bearings at the same time, so they pop back and forth. And that .01" pop eventually warps the bearing seats and the wheels gets sloppy. I do recall one company making the center space .501", for a while, and you always heard the spacers jingling around in the wheels.

Why is this?

New to roller so I'm just tying to follow you here...

I'll grant you that .01 (one hundredth or ten thousands of an inch) that you state is a significant amount of difference, the dimensions you quote equal to .001 (one thousandth) of an inch, which seem like a reasonable amount.

I'm sure the manufactures are careful to not create a situation where the bearings are pinched into a bind, so they have to factor in a small amount of tolerance to prevent that.

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New to roller so I'm just tying to follow you here...

I'll grant you that .01 (one hundredth or ten thousands of an inch) that you state is a significant amount of difference, the dimensions you quote equal to .001 (one thousandth) of an inch, which seem like a reasonable amount.

I'm sure the manufactures are careful to not create a situation where the bearings are pinched into a bind, so they have to factor in a small amount of tolerance to prevent that.

OK I used a better crowbar this time and the figures will be much more accurate, and maybe shed some light.

The plastic and aluminum 8mm spacers (that I have) are both .409" wide. The aluminum .25" spacers are .401" at the spacer ridge and .922" overall, while the plastic .25" spacers are .405" at the ridge and .949" overall.

The pop distance is .016 with both 8mm spacers. It was .018" with the plastic .25" spacer, but the aluminum .25" spacer had no pop at all, because the center ridge is too narrow, and the spacer rattles loose, inside. It will not support the bearings when they are pressed, so they will go slow.

My fresh, lightly used wheels, which I used for the measurements, are already getting loose in the bearing seats from the bad fit. The only solution I've ever found is sanding the 8mm spacers down until the pop is gone and the bearings are firmly seated. You can't do this with the .25" spacers, and why should you have to, anyway. Most players just wear out their wheels and wonder why they went so fast. If nobody knows why it happens nobody has to fix it.

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Ok, now it makes sense.

Might be an opportunity for a new product for you; axle spacers that more closely match the dimensions of the wheels, or shims that match the OD of the bearings in various thicknesses to take up the extra space inside.

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Ok, now it makes sense.

Might be an opportunity for a new product for you; axle spacers that more closely match the dimensions of the wheels, or shims that match the OD of the bearings in various thicknesses to take up the extra space inside.

Or, how about a standard size that is adhered to by the wheel makers and the spacer makers? Or a spacer that comes with the wheel that is the correct size? The wheels are probably the most expensive part of the game, and if making them within a functional tolerance with the absolutely necessary spacer makes them last longer, why not? Compared to the cost of wheels, the spacers are zip, but will your spacers fit your next wheels?

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When the aluminium A8 sprungs are available I'll definitely buy a set.
I've been lurking around this thread for the last 6-12 months

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Those both look great. I'm working on converting some 14k's. Wish I could get my hands on some sprungs for the conversion.

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AluminumProto.jpg

These are the first Sprungs, made in 1998. They were started from one of my sketches, and I figured out how to make them as the cad drawings were done. They took eight days, start to finish, and were the first machine I ever designed or made. They have compound independent suspension; and truncated axles, which are attached to the sidewalls, and a patent of their own. Many players who are considered our icons of today, were icons then, too, and they still think these were the best inlines ever made. From experience.

The rear sidewalls, above the springs and below the mount plate, are only .055" thick, and never bent or cracked with years of hardcore use on players ranging well up into the 200s. Players who were famous for snapping the back of frames and ripping the frames off their boots. That is a lot of strain that did not get to their legs and backs. Instead the strain became stored energy in the suspension system, and was used to their advantage. We are still governed by the same physics laws that ruled way back in 1998.

It is a physical impossibility for a rigid inline hockey chassis, with any kind of wheels on earth, to supply the performance attributes of a Sprung chassis with compound, progressive independent suspension, on the same or even inferior wheels. You may play fine without them, but to deny that physical differences and advantages exist, because you don't use them, is ignorance. It makes you say things like "I don't believe in them.". They aren't Santa.

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I remember seeing these at Joe's rink (Skate San Diego) some where around '02-'04.

HAHA Joe was still using them for his everyday skates when we finally retired them. He was not happy.

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It must've been one of the first times you were showing them to him because everyone was just checking them out...

I was there because Joe was the official CCM guy, and they wanted us to meet so he could test the skates. It took me almost a week to get him to finally try them. It took about a week to get them away from him, finally, too. Off and on, from the finish of Joe's first skate around the rink, Sprungs have been under consideration at Reebok/CCM.

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1998-99 was the high water mark for inline hockey, and it has never regained that popularity. In 1998, when I made the prototypes with Mission, every company was trying to improve what they all thought was the weak link in the sport, the rigid chassis. Sprungs, the Tuuk Rocker, the Mission Vibe, the VForm (sp?), along with various other slants on the wheels, were all started then. And almost all rigid chassis were rockered, or had the option. Flat and rigid was not the answer then or now. Since then, every company, or the people running them, has liked our product and has seriously discussed original equipment with us. It's evolution time.

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Really interested in finding some A6 before I completely give in and buy another setup. Right now I am skating on AC2 skates which are fantastic but are
missing that snap turn ability I am used to on ice and my rockered slalom skates(Seba Igor).

What is the best performance ice boot for the conversion under 300 for the boot? The 12k pumps and White K pumps seem to be a great buy for 2-250ish, but I've never skated reeboks. Perhaps a slightly used one95 or some of those 95 pro stocks that keep popping up in my size on craigslist? Ideally I would rip apart my missions but I'd like to keep them intact

I guess I have time anyway seeing as the frames not in stock anyway!

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