Loose blades in Tapered Shafts

[tryandstopme 35]

I did a search on the problem of blades getting loose in tapered shafts and I saw where people have suggested using tape to fix the issue. I still have a couple of questions that I wasn't able to find the answers to in regards to that and I was hoping that someone could help me out.

- Is regular cloth tape the best option to use?

- Should you wrap the tape around the top of the tenon, or cut pieces of tape

and lay them lengthwise down the sides of the tenon?

- If the tenon is pre-glued should you put the tape on top of the glue or heat

the glue and first strip it off the tenon before putting on the tape?

Thanks for the help!

[Bmplam 1]

I use cloth tape cut in strips down the side of the tendon and the glue needs to be on the outside of the tape. My LHS guy just gives me a glue stick to melt on the outside of the tape. If the blade gets loose after a few games, just add another strip or two of tape and repeat.

[Patrick67 1]

If a blade keeps getting lose I never use glue, but do the following:

1: Put a strip on one side of the tenon.

2: If 1 doesn't work I put a strip on both sides of the tenon.

3. If 1 & 2 don't work I put a strip on one side, that goes over the top of the tenon and down the other side.

If #3 is not enough, I discard the blade. don't want to much tape on the tenon, as it mixes up my feel.

A single strip is ok(also if it's all over the tenon), but multiple layers are too much IMO.

[T-Dot. 0]

If you need to put more than one strip on the hosel then you don't have enough glue in the shaft. I use to have this prob once in awhile so i now have gone back to using standard shafts. I'm talkin' like half a stick of glue. But for those who still use the tapered shafts, you need almost a half of stick of glue in the shaft. This offsets the need of more tape.

[tryandstopme 35]

If you need to put more than one strip on the hosel then you don't have enough glue in the shaft. I use to have this prob once in awhile so i now have gone back to using standard shafts. I'm talkin' like half a stick of glue. But for those who still use the tapered shafts, you need almost a half of stick of glue in the shaft. This offsets the need of more tape.

Since I've started using Christian tapered woodies, I haven't had to do any "extra-curricular" activities to get the blades to stay in well. Are there some blade manufacturers in particular that are more prone to be more loose fitting? I know that I've had a few issues with CCM blades in the past.

[Patrick67 1]

I think the CCM Taper blades are just a touch slimmer than most other companies.

[TBLfan 25]

koho's tapered blades were horrible. They had a super thin and super short tenon that needed two, sometimes three strips of tape.

The best I've ever had was the pro stock missions, the tenons on those things fit perfectly in any tapered shaft I've used and they're about 2.5" long. Also my TPS R2 wood blade has a tenon of about 3" long, very nice.

If I do have an issue I take a single layer of tape and put it over the top of the tenon and run it down both sides of the tenon. Heat up the tape to get the glue melted in it and then heat up the shaft. Most of the time it will fit soo snuggly that the tape will tear a bit and some of it will need to be cut off. I keep the heat on the tendon and lowest part of the shaft while inserting the blade.

[tryandstopme 35]

Appreciate all the responses from everyone!

One last question, please pardon my stupidity:

I've wanted to try one of the 2007 NBH wood tapered blades, either the XXX-Lite woodie or the One80 woodie. Looking through the NBH catalog, the XXX-Lite is listed as a .520 taper and the One80 is listed as a .620 taper. I'm assuming that number refers to the diamter of the tenon, so would the XXX-Lite blade fit OK in my TPS R2 Response Armor shaft, or is it more suited to go with a .520 taper shaft like the Vapor XXX Lite shaft? Would I be better off going with the .620 taper One80 blade?

Thanks again

[kovalchuk71 212]

.620 is for standard shafts.

[tryandstopme 35]

.620 is for standard shafts.

Thanks for that Kovalchuk. The catalog was throwing me because there are some blades that are labled:

".620 standard taper"

".520 standard taper"

".620 taper system"

and

".520 taper system"

I'm just used to thinking that when a description has "taper" in it, that its actually a tapered, non-standard blade. It doesn't take much to confuse me.... :lol:

Thanks for all the help

[mack 44]

More glue is never the answer. Some glue maybe, but loading up on glue is worse than tape because the glue's going to end up breaking.

[saba 0]

warrior tapered fit loose in my easton syn2, always need extra tape

[T-Dot. 0]

Is there a specific glue to use? I use just whatever my local hardware store carries and it hasn't failed me yet. But if it does then now i know that it wasn't my shitty stick building skills but the glue....thanx Mack. :P

[mack 44]

I think they sell glue sticks at hockey shops but I always just used the glue sticks from craft stores. I don't think there's enough of a difference to use anything other than what's cheapest.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Except at the hockey shops, the glue is "special" and costs 2.00 a stick.

[Roach 0]

I think the CCM Taper blades are just a touch slimmer than most other companies.

This would explain why I'm having such a hard time with my blades! I couldn't believe I had to show up to play with 3 sticks - 1st period would be with my tapered shaft, 2nd period with my back-up tapered shaft, 3rd period would be with my back-up standard shaft because the 2 tapered ones would be loose by the middle to the end of the 1st and 2nd period! Amazing! I was playing around with a combination of tape and more glue and only had recent success with both. Thanks, guys!

[rjmurp01 0]

I think the CCM Taper blades are just a touch slimmer than most other companies.

I think you are right. I recently bought a RBK 7K shaft and matching 7K blade - the blade comes loose after a couple hard shots every time. I've added glue, didn't solve the problem. Now I've added a little tape. We'll see if that works. I was kind of annoyed that "matching" products didn't actually match. I wonder if I got a bad shaft or blade. Has anyone else had problems with RBK shafts/blades?

[TBLfan 25]

My buddy has been using a 10.0 shaft and 8.0(actually now I think he has a 10.0 blade) with no issues.

I'd be willing to guess that although it's the same company that the sticks are made as two different products.

[topshelf11 0]

I was at Ace Hardware and they sell extra-strength glue sticks. Yellow instead of clear. It seems to hold better and break down less than the clear stuff, and cost about the same.

[LkptTiger 1]

The black glue TPS is putting on some of their blades isn't bad at all - thicker stuff, holds well - but really fucking burns if you catch yourself with it. We sell/install a lot of 'em at the shop where I work, and warn our customers "Black glue burn hot" if they decide to take them home and throw 'em in their shafts themselves.

[echi24 1]

^^i use a strong hair dryer that i have lying around to do most of my blades, and i've never had a problem until i tried to take end plugs out of my pro stock tps xn10 and response. i definitely think their glue holds better.

[flaming_june 2]

I think the CCM Taper blades are just a touch slimmer than most other companies.

i have SOP sherwood tapered blades i feel the same way about them. I've used ccm/nike bauer, sherwood shafts and all of them dont fit right with it.

[daca 0]

You would think there'd be a standard for this, so blades that are too big or small for the shaft wouldn't be an issue. blah.