Stick flex affect shot height?

[blackhawk066 0]

I play with a 77 flex two-peice one90 with the p92/Naslund curve. I loved the curve and would like to keep it the same, but I have been having a lot of trouble keeping my shots under the crossbar. The curve is an open face which I'm sure has a lot to do with it, but it makes lifting quick snapshots very easy in tight to the net. If i take a wrist shot from about 20 feet away however the shot goes high. I feel like the shaft is so flexible it lifts the puck more as it kicks. Would buying a 87 or 107 flex reduce this effect? Or perhaps trying a xxx-lite with its lower kick-point.

Thanks a lot.

p.s. I would buy an ops

[Buzz_LightBeer 974]

Maybe, yes. could also be stick length, height, etc.

ive found i get more accuracy with a wrist/snap shot when im using a longer stick. slapshot as well

[blues_91 0]

Your follow through and wrist roll has alot to do with height as well.

[wristshot19 0]

Your follow through and wrist roll has alot to do with height as well.

Yes. Work on keeping your follow through low.

[Hawes_4 0]

I find what helps me with those shots from far out(the point) is the low follow through and try point the blade anywhere from straight out and toward the ice.

Next time you get a chance take a bucket of pucks and sit about 20 feet out and practice, see what works with your style.

[blackhawk066 0]

Thank you for the replies. I have been practicing quite a bit and I can get my shots down. The problem is that it feels very forced and I can't get full power into the shot. Would a short taper make this more manageable?

[Hawes_4 0]

Just stick with it and it will become more natural.

[Lufria 1]

all about practicing and repitation.

[ultraman7k 0]

what i found helpful for my follow throughs is this.

raise your arm out, it should naturally want to roll over.

translate that to shooting, as you practice your shot, keep your eye on the blade the whole way through, and that should help you follow through till you can do it naturally.

as for loss of power, it may have to do with your hand positioning as opposed to the taper. hopefully this helped a bit, and ya gotta keep practicing.

[swede 52]

I play with a 77 flex two-peice one90 with the p92/Naslund curve. I loved the curve and would like to keep it the same, but I have been having a lot of trouble keeping my shots under the crossbar. The curve is an open face which I'm sure has a lot to do with it, but it makes lifting quick snapshots very easy in tight to the net. If i take a wrist shot from about 20 feet away however the shot goes high. I feel like the shaft is so flexible it lifts the puck more as it kicks. Would buying a 87 or 107 flex reduce this effect? Or perhaps trying a xxx-lite with its lower kick-point.

Thanks a lot.

p.s. I would buy an ops

which part of the blade do you hit the puck with?

[Jarick 5]

I've had the same thing, except with a P88 curve. Keep shooting up towards the goalies head instead of down. I've had to concentrate on the low follow through as I naturally want to shoot high.

I've been watching some of the videos at cbc.ca/thinkhockey and one of them focuses on pushing your top hand out when passing/shooting instead of pulling it in. I've noticed that the better players on the ice do this whereas the screwballs like me have our blades up in the air all the time.

Definitely need some ice time and a bag of pucks...

Here's the video

[Chadd 916]

The "problem" is you. Changing curves or flexes usually means you're going to have to change your shooting motion, at least a little bit. Most kids use a stick that's too stiff and that will often cause you to exaggerate your follow through in order to lift a puck. The other "solution" most people go for is for more loft, like a Sakic.

With a lighter flex, using a blade with less loft is often the best solution. A stiffer flex with the same curve will probably reduce the height of your shot but it will also (likely) reduce the velocity as well.