Getting A New Shaft

[Dan_The_Man_16 0]

Hey thats all I played, (house league, and high school) and I still go through them. I don't know, but still, I would be going through ALOT more wood sticks, they would probably cost me more in the long run.

[Chadd 916]

If you snapped aluminum sticks at ten, you have some serious flaws in your technique and you're wasting power.

[Dan_The_Man_16 0]

I'm saying I could, not on shots, but I could bust them, if say, I wanted a new one, lol. I don't know about now, but I had my slapper measured at a tourney once and out of ten shots they were all in the range of 65-70 MPH and I'm like 6'0 and 165.

Usually I bust the blade too, it's usually a 3:1 ratio of busted blades to shafts.

[Guest 2048]

What do you guys do to your sticks? I'm on the ice 5 days a week in the winter taking hundreds of shots a day and my ops last longer than that?

Same here, but I'm just usin wood blades. Freaky.

I've killed 2 blades so far: snapped an ether at the hosel after 6 months of use (tons of puckshoots) and then I used a lindros on rough ice and cut it to shit, but the blade was already a dud.

[LegoDoom 0]

It depends on the stick, but I usually kill TPS blades and warp their shafts. Inno has been pretty good to me.

[ambro 0]

You warp composite shafts? Never heard of that before...

[Timber 0]

Flyweight is the best shaft that I have ever used (compared to Redlite, Tricore, TFG, Inno 1100 - all standard, and Sicore, Response OPS's). Matched with a light wood blade, I haven't found a better all around combination.

[bulletproof_funk 0]

You warp composite shafts?  Never heard of that before...

My old 8-5 Flyweight is warped after the use I put it through. It was a pretty flexy shaft to begin with and taking alot of shots and leaning on it from time to time (wasn't hard to do given the flex) has put a very small but permanent bow in the shaft.

Waiting to see the L2 and XV might be worth a short wait.

[mack 44]

I'm in the same boat as Eazy. I get a good amount of oomph on my shots but it's the hackwork that wears stuff out. That and I'd suppose the deflections don't do the sticks any good at all.

[LegoDoom 0]

You warp composite shafts? Never heard of that before...

Only TPS shafts, yeah.

[mack 44]

That used to happen to me with the old Vector/Revolution shafts and the Easton A/Cs and Z-Cores, but that's to be expected of aluminum. Can't say I've seen a Louisville warp though, but I've only used their Rubber shafts.

[LegoDoom 0]

I don't know what it is. I wanted to try the XN10, but broke the blade from that, and then cracked the R2 blade I replaced it with and warped the shaft all within a 3 game span. I wish I could just blame it on me being a hack, but it doesn't happen that often with Easton or Inno.

[Sniper#39 0]

I was looking at trying out the R2 XN10 until my LHS got them in and priced them - $209 CDN for a shaft! Redlite XN10 - $189 CDN (still high IMO)

I'll keep using my old Fly's for now until the L-2 is available at hopefully a better price point.

I've never had the pleasure of trying an Inno as no one on my area carries them but have rarely seen/heard anything bad said about them.

Snipe

[Kirsch 1]

I was just wondering, is there a huge performance or otherwise difference in paying $50 for a blade than paying $20?

[Chris_H 0]

No, but more so a durability factor then a performance, however performance in some cases.

[Willshire 0]

I have an 85 flex synthesis right now and have had no problems with it. Its really durable and the blades arent that bad.n The are cheaper than most other shafts. They have them for around $100 at peranis.com

[Fire0nIce228 1]

I would say the only difference in a higher priced blade would be weight and durability. I had a $50 "focus flex" blade that had about an inch along the top of the blade back towards the heel missing so that you could see down inside the blade and I played with it like that for 2 months before it finally snapped.

[Kirsch 1]

Ok. As noted in another thread I purchased a Red Lite XN10 on Monday so it should be here tomorrow. I'm probably going to put in an Ultra Lite or some other Easton blade around that price because I like the lok of the Sakic curve alot. Needless to say I am REALLY looking forward to tomorrow :D

[thejackal 46]

I dont think its a great idea. The Ultra Light is heavy for a composite blade and it'll throw off the balance completely considering the redlite XN10 doesnt weigh much.

[Kirsch 1]

Check out the new thread I just made. It completely changes what blade I was going to buy.

[Eazy_b97 1]

Out of the tapered shafts I have tried, I like the 1100 and found that the Synthesis grip was good as well. The cut OPS XX I had was alright, but I didn't like the kick the shaft or OPS gave me, but that could be because I had used the Xn10 right before that.

[mac 0]

so, from what it seems here out of all the tapered shafts u guys have used the 1100 seems to be the most popular, but i noticed someone siad something about the old t-flex. is this shaft the all-time great or something and do you think if I could get one at a good prive should I snag it?

[Chadd 916]

The new short hosel blades will make the already short (in my opinion) T-Flex seem even shorter.

[sn1per 0]

if you live in Canada, go to a sport chek and try and find a t-flex cause they're like $40 and are basically a synthesis minus 3 inches off the shaft.

[Chadd 916]

if you live in Canada, go to a sport chek and try and find a t-flex cause they're like $40 and are basically a synthesis minus 3 inches off the shaft.

You guys have any in stock? I don't recall seeing any when JR and I were at your shop.