Need help on curves

[OldNSlow 3]

Hi. I've had a lot of trouble finding a curve similar to what I used in the 90's. I once had what I believe was a Pro Stock Shanahan Easton LH wood blade (I know Shanny is a righty, but this blade was not exactly -graphics and closed face- like the retail blades.)

I'm looking for:

Curve = Toe

Lie = 5-ish

Toe = Square

Face = Closed

I've browsed through the threads and it seems like my only options are tapered blades, and I don't have a tapered shaft. I have an Easton Ultra-Lite, which I like.

Can someone recommend a blade for me? I prefer wood, but I'm willing to try to a composite if I find the right blade.

Thanks in advance.

[k.nick91 0]

i can tell your new to modsquad since this is your first post. if you look in the top right hand corner there is a row of buttons there is on called PATTERN DB. check that it should point you in the right direction :)

[OldNSlow 3]

Wow!!! Thanks for your help. I didn't know about the Pattern DB. Sorry about my ignorance.

[OldNSlow 3]

The Pattern DB is great, but perhaps someone could recommend Pro Stock patterns. The blade pattern I'm looking for fits within the P10 or Shanahan models, and I can't find either patterns anywhere.

I'm thinking of ordering the Christian #4, but they require a minimum of a 6 blade order (and are overpriced).

Any suggestions? Maybe I should get a tapered shaft and get some Mogilny Pro Stocks?

[Chadd 916]

The Pattern DB is great, but perhaps someone could recommend Pro Stock patterns. The blade pattern I'm looking for fits within the P10 or Shanahan models, and I can't find either patterns anywhere.

I'm thinking of ordering the Christian #4, but they require a minimum of a 6 blade order (and are overpriced).

Any suggestions? Maybe I should get a tapered shaft and get some Mogilny Pro Stocks?

You only need to order six if you're getting customs, otherwise you can order them one at a time.

[OldNSlow 3]

That's actually not correct. They told me they didn't have the Wood #4 Standard hosel pattern in inventory, and that they would only supply if I ordered a minimum of six.

They told me they have them in tapered only.

[Chadd 916]

That's actually not correct. They told me they didn't have the Wood #4 Standard hosel pattern in inventory, and that they would only supply if I ordered a minimum of six.

They told me they have them in tapered only.

That's odd, the website still lists them as being in stock. They shouldn't be trying to soak anyone for a minimum when it's listed as a normal item, let alone one that's listed as being in stock.

[OldNSlow 3]

Yeah, it is very odd. Because you can add those blades to your cart and complete the purchase. I knew to call from my buddy, who had a bunch of problems ordering the same blades. He bought them online and then was informed they wouldn't complete the order unless he bought 6 of them because they didn't have any made and in inventory.

[Jarick 5]

If you're looking at wood blades, another option is to pick up a Forsberg clone from Christian and heat it up and bend the toe. They are the only wood blades I've been able to re-curve, and I made a pretty wicked 5-lie toe hook. Only problem is that it was so flimsy it torqued open on slappers, but I have that same problem with pretty much any wood blade I try to use.

[Chadd 916]

If you're looking at wood blades, another option is to pick up a Forsberg clone from Christian and heat it up and bend the toe. They are the only wood blades I've been able to re-curve, and I made a pretty wicked 5-lie toe hook. Only problem is that it was so flimsy it torqued open on slappers, but I have that same problem with pretty much any wood blade I try to use.

Sounds like you're catching it too far out on the toe.

[Jarick 5]

Yeah, with that one the real fun was hitting the slapper mid-blade and catching the hook/wedge. But every tapered wood blade I've used felt weak on slappers, even Forsbergs at the heel.

[Chadd 916]

Yeah, with that one the real fun was hitting the slapper mid-blade and catching the hook/wedge. But every tapered wood blade I've used felt weak on slappers, even Forsbergs at the heel.

Then you have superhuman strength or some technique issues.

[OldNSlow 3]

Yeah, with that one the real fun was hitting the slapper mid-blade and catching the hook/wedge. But every tapered wood blade I've used felt weak on slappers, even Forsbergs at the heel.

Then you have superhuman strength or some technique issues.

I've never used a tapered blade, but I'm wondering why on your response? Is there no noticeable difference between tapered and standard as to the release or impact on the stick?

[Chadd 916]

Yeah, with that one the real fun was hitting the slapper mid-blade and catching the hook/wedge. But every tapered wood blade I've used felt weak on slappers, even Forsbergs at the heel.

Then you have superhuman strength or some technique issues.

I've never used a tapered blade, but I'm wondering why on your response? Is there no noticeable difference between tapered and standard as to the release or impact on the stick?

There are differences in the shafts, but virtually none in the blades. I can feel tapered shafts load and release better on wristers, but that has nothing to do with the blades. I am a huge believer in tapered shafts and have used them almost exclusively for the last few years.

Since the only differences in construction of the two blades are the dimensions of the hosel and tennon, the only way to feel more torque is really by adding resistance. In hockey that is usually the result of an increase in downward pressure and if you have so much downward pressure that you are twisting the hosel, you are either very, very strong or you are mashing the blade into the ice.

I'll call them and see what's up if I have the time tomorrow.

[Rustpot 1]

Yeah, it is very odd. Because you can add those blades to your cart and complete the purchase. I knew to call from my buddy, who had a bunch of problems ordering the same blades. He bought them online and then was informed they wouldn't complete the order unless he bought 6 of them because they didn't have any made and in inventory.

Can't both of you get 3 if you're looking to get the same pattern? Cheaper shipping too.

[Patrick67 1]

I 2nd the tapershaft comments.

Only problem I have is ballistik turns out to be superior to most of the competetion, I just broke my SE 52 taper shaft after 1years use and bought a Synergy II as a replacement.

Way heavier and not the same kick, even though the other shaft had been beaten up for a year.

So now I have to prowl for ballistik shafts, LOL never thought that day would occur.

And to stay on the topic of a suitable blade pattern, I'd try ro find a Bauer p10 to try out through a friend or other player at the local rink (If your lucky someone uses it..) and if you like it then order a bunch through the Bauer ID program.

[Jarick 5]

I can 100% assure you it's my technique!

It might have been shaft specific, as I picked up an intermediate XN10 R2 (the real one, not the Armor). I tried a couple different Synergy wood blades, and they torqued wide open. I thought it might be the whippy shaft, but using my Torch composite blade, my shots were very hard and no torque issues. The Christian wood blade was just very thin and torqued in the middle. All four wood tapered blades I've used would flex too much on slappers...I thought it might have something to do with the thinner hosel getting weak too quickly as I never had a problem with standard wood blades. But it could just be I got four bad wood blades.

[Chadd 916]

That's strange, I've never had problems with the christian wood blades. They go soft over time, as do all wood blades, but the customs and the regular retails were fine for me off the shelf. The TPS R2 blades were the worst for me. They weren't very stiff when new and went downhill from there. They were pretty durable but I prefer a stiffer blade.

[lampliter87 8]

Website's down. Sugar.

[Jarick 5]

That's strange, I've never had problems with the christian wood blades. They go soft over time, as do all wood blades, but the customs and the regular retails were fine for me off the shelf. The TPS R2 blades were the worst for me. They weren't very stiff when new and went downhill from there. They were pretty durable but I prefer a stiffer blade.

Well maybe that's it; I've used an R2 wood blade, two Synergy wood blades, and the Christian wood blade. Although I did pick out a pretty thin one so I could curve it. I've just always preferred the stiffest composite blades I can find.

[OldNSlow 3]

Yeah, it is very odd. Because you can add those blades to your cart and complete the purchase. I knew to call from my buddy, who had a bunch of problems ordering the same blades. He bought them online and then was informed they wouldn't complete the order unless he bought 6 of them because they didn't have any made and in inventory.

Can't both of you get 3 if you're looking to get the same pattern? Cheaper shipping too.

Without getting into too much detail, because it was a minimum of 6 blades at custom prices. I think it came to about $40+ per blade.

[flyerman 0]

Instead of creating of a new thread, thought I would just piggyback on this one...

Does anyone know the specs of the RBK K-13 pro stock pattern?

[Patrick67 1]

K-13 = T.Drury = Easton Darby = Bauer PM89 = TPS p27

[Chadd 916]

K-13 = T.Drury = Easton Darby = Bauer PM89 = TPS p27

left out warrior Weight/Vanek :P

[flyerman 0]

K-13 = T.Drury = Easton Darby = Bauer PM89 = TPS p27

left out warrior Weight/Vanek :P

Thanks guys!