One95's from LS2 to Custom+

[YouTuuk 0]

Obviously changing from LS2 to Custom+ holders, it would be nice to have a "access hole" drilled at the front of the footbed, so I can have access to the 8mm nut/bolt hardware to tighten and/or change runners in the future. Of all the LHS I have called to date, none have said they will do this 'drill access hole' procedure.

I was just wondering if anybody has had this done, and what type drill did you use ( for a composite footbed ) because I am worried how the material will react to drilling a circle the size of a nickle.

Is this procedure possible? or should I just bite the bullet and put red loctite on the hardware so it won't loosen, then when I change the blades I guess I have to take off the holder. I guess I could ask my LHS to put the new holder on using RMS screws - then I would be in control of the holder from then on.

Any comments to help me decide?

[fieldofdreams 0]

There is no reason for the shops not to drill the hole... unless they just didn't want to deal with replacing the steel on the C+. It's such a pain!

[YouTuuk 0]

I don't think replacing the steel is the issue, because I would do that, once an access hole is drilled.

I think they are afraid to create a hole the size of a nickle in the bottom of the boot, they may be afraid if they ruin your boot or it cracks that you will be mad - because remember its a composite type material that may need a special bit. The LHS said it would be hard to drill, because it would be hard to get the drill in that tight area, but my question would you not drill the hole from the bottom of the boot? Then put the holder on.

So it look like I have to drill the access hole myself, before I give it to LHS to put on new holders - but what type of drill bit would be my question....

There is no reason for the shops not to drill the hole... unless they just didn't want to deal with replacing the steel on the C+. It's such a pain!

[TBLfan 25]

You need a Carbide tip bit.

via JR. ;)

[jimmy 194]

I use a 3/4" wood hole bit. These have a large cutter on the end of a thin drill bit, so it fits in nicely against the tounge, and cuts a nice large hole. Don't even bother trying to cut a small hole like factory does. Unless you like to struggle for hrs getting the nut on. Go big or don't go at all. It won't hurt the boot.

[Hoser 0]

I had Westwood sports in MN do this for me no questions asked. I'm not sure what type of bit they used

[JR Boucicaut 3805]

I posted this info in a different thread and I forget the name of the drill bit (but I did have it in the other thread)

The bit I use has a tip that looks like a screw...so it screws into the sole then drills it out. It's great because it smoewhat makes a pilot hole, and when you are done, it keeps the material on the bit so you aren't fishing it out of the holder afterwards.

[TBLfan 25]

After I remembered the carbide bit from looking at a hardware store website, I searched for that post and I couldn't find it. :(

[YouTuuk 0]

Thats funny JR because a few weeks ago I saw that thread of yours while doing a search, but I forgot to write it down then I spend a good part of one day trying to re-find that same thread, but to no avail - hence thats why I posted my question....

Thanks for all your help guys, I recieved some good usable advice from this post, much appreatiated.

I posted this info in a different thread and I forget the name of the drill bit (but I did have it in the other thread)

The bit I use has a tip that looks like a screw...so it screws into the sole then drills it out. It's great because it smoewhat makes a pilot hole, and when you are done, it keeps the material on the bit so you aren't fishing it out of the holder afterwards.

[JR Boucicaut 3805]

Auger bits

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...mp;#entry645247

[pantherfan 0]

I use a 3/4" wood hole bit. These have a large cutter on the end of a thin drill bit, so it fits in nicely against the tounge, and cuts a nice large hole. Don't even bother trying to cut a small hole like factory does. Unless you like to struggle for hrs getting the nut on. Go big or don't go at all. It won't hurt the boot.

+1 For the holesaw bit. Small teeth FTW also.

[SirJW 207]

How often do you normally tighten your steel? I ask cuz I'm on my 2nd set of steel on my Nike Quests, but the shop I use just replaced the whole Tuuk cuz he said it was easier to do (for same price of steel only)... In other words why bother?

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

You need a Carbide tip bit.

via JR. ;)

Anyone else finding an issue with the right One95 skate being towed in more than the left?

Not all pairs but a large amount I keep finding this. The toe is in farther on the right than the left and the heel is out more on the right then the left?

Anyone?

I just keep centering them. Usually it is as simple as taking out the front rivets straightening the blade and boom it like an 1/8 of an inch off? Put a couple coppers in and re-drill and all fixed.

[TBLfan 25]

I think I have that problem with my left skate. I just swapped steel again and again the steel on the left is bent slightly. I did notice a little choppyiness on that runner but at the time I just thought it had to do with needing a new sharpening.

My first pair of Vapors(first retail product run), had the issue with the left skate as well.

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

I think I have that problem with my left skate. I just swapped steel again and again the steel on the left is bent slightly. I did notice a little choppyiness on that runner but at the time I just thought it had to do with needing a new sharpening.

My first pair of Vapors(first retail product run), had the issue with the left skate as well.

Funny I have only found a large issue with right skates...left may be slightly off but not as bad as the rights!

[TBLfan 25]

I'm not sure whether my one95s were shipped without holders and put on my an EQM or done at NBH. They're "custom" with retail fit(double stitched, the good eyelets, etc), mine have the LS2 with the red graphic and are 296 when NBH had 288 set for 10.5D... I really dont know the whole story on them... I was mainly commenting for the Vapors, because that was an issue that more than likely people forgot about.

[YouTuuk 0]

In my previous Tuuk+'s I had to tighten steel maybe only 3 or 4 times in 5 years, but the thing is its easier and more conveinent to tighten yourself than to bring it to a LHS and have them remove the holders ( for around $25 ). In other words its about time, convience, control and money...

Now I can see getting new holders with your LHS if you need new steel ( especially with your LHS's bargain ) - but I don't like bringing skates to LHS for them to remove the holders just to tighten....I guess I don't like my runners making that "clicking" when I walk in locker room. Ha! One of my pet peeves. LOL - when I hear teammates walking and making that sound I say to myself, "...Dude, grab yourself a 8mm driver and get to work!!..." LOL

How often do you normally tighten your steel? I ask cuz I'm on my 2nd set of steel on my Nike Quests, but the shop I use just replaced the whole Tuuk cuz he said it was easier to do (for same price of steel only)... In other words why bother?

[SirJW 207]

I agree about the clicking. My previous set clicked but the current set is still tight, it could be I don't hit my heel as hard any more when I tie my skates since they are broken in now...